Tires August 15, 2010, 01:35:52 am Yahoo Message Number: 115426Being well aware that tires are age dated and 6 -7 years is max, regardless of tread wear, a couple of weeks ago I started looking for new 875/16.5 radials for my 7 year old tires on the 22.5LD and my daughter's some other brand. I discovered that finding a dozen of those 875/16.5 tires was not all that easy. I finally located the needed dozen using nearly that many local vendors, who got them shipped here from a hundred or more miles away. I set up appointments for as soon as the tires would arrive, about a week, and happily took off for that week with family in Fort Bragg, CA with the LD. All went well, for about 350 miles of the 360 mile round trip, and then on Friday, before the Monday appointment for the tire change on the LD I had a significant blowout on the passenger front. Progressive Ins. sent out a tow truck to change the blowout to the spare in good order and I figured I was set. Only, much to my surprise, the tow truck operator left and I discovered that the offending wheel was locked tight and would not move. Figuring I probably had a blown wheel bearing I called Progressive again for a tow. The nearest rig that was capable of handling the 22.5LD was an hour and a half away, but I was only ten minutes from home so I called a neighbor and he came and got wifemate and doggie so they wouldn't be stuck in the 90+ F heat we were experiencing. The tow truck arrived and he wanted to check out the spare tire/wheel that was causing the problem, and as soon as he jacked it up and loosened the lug nuts the wheel spun free. The dang spare wheel/tire was too shallow for the front axle and was binding on the brake calliper!! He said it would have been fine on an outside dually, but not on a front axle. Off I go home to get the 16.5 spare off my daughter's rig, which was at my house, and to give another try. This one worked fine, and I was able to drive the rig home.Bottom line.... Even you have a ton of tread, heed the 6 year changeout on those tires!! Read that age date on your tires! Blowouts are no fun. Thank goodness it happened on a rural road close to home, and next to an agricultural equipment storage yard where there was plenty of room. If it had happened on the two lane mountain road we were on earlier it could have been most unpleasant.I don't know why the spare on the rig was too shallow, maybe it was not the original spare wheel/tire that came with the LD back in '89. BTW, these tires are no longer cheap, close to $200 each, and hard to find. I suppose living in a rural area doesn't help. Several of the local dealers I called told me the 875/16.5 Firestone and Cooper tires have been on backorder for months and months. Tire Rack says they expect some toward the end of the month, and they are cheaper, but who knows if the tires will actually be available at that time. The ones I did get came from a local commercial tire warehouse, two from Les Schwab that came from one of their stores in a neighboring community, and some from Firestone dealers in Sacramento and Reno. Happily, all were less than a year from their manufacture date.It may be time for those with the older 16.5" wheels to look at switching out to sixteens, if this lack of availability continues. Anyhow, I now have a dozen new tires on the two rigs, a significantly lighter wallet, a happy wife and daughter, and Burning Man, here we come!!Gary in Chico, CA
Re: Tires Reply #1 – August 15, 2010, 07:56:47 am Yahoo Message Number: 115431Gary, I'm so glad that your story has a happy ending. What weird timing! This is an opportunity to promote Michelin's excellent safety video, "The Critical Factor," on how to handle a rig that has had a blowout. Some of the advice is counterintuitive, until they expla
Re: Tires Reply #2 – August 15, 2010, 01:00:33 pm Yahoo Message Number: 115441On Aug 15, 2010, at 4:56 AM, joanne0012 wrote:Quote As Michelin points out, damage from underinflation or an encounter with a pothole can cause a blowout down the road even in a relatively new tire, so tires of any age should be inspected regularly. It's not just about monitoring air pressure. I don't mean to sound preachy; my LD is going to its new home this week and since my RVing days are ending, I probably won't have another chance to share this info. Joanne, you have never sounded preachy. I'm sure you will miss your Lazy Daze, and I'm happy to hear it's found a new home, and I hope your future continues on a positive path. However, I'm also hopeful you will stay tuned to this board and continue to share your experience and knowledge. Linda does as does Paul; I'll hold an optimistic thought that you will as well.And thanks for the links.Lorna Coarsegold http://uppity-woman.blogspot.com/
Blowouts Reply #3 – August 16, 2010, 02:32:55 pm Yahoo Message Number: 115474On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 11:56:38 -0000, "joanne0012" wrote these inspiring words:QuoteThis is an opportunity to promote Michelin's excellent safety video, "The Critical Factor," on how to handle a rig that has had a blowout. Some of the advice is counterintuitive, until they explain it! http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/toolbox/videos-demos.jsp Well worth watching. I have placed a note on our dash reminding me to press the accelerator if I have a blowout. Maybe after seeing the note for a month or two I will remember it should we ever have a blowout.PS. The video shows yet another use for Nevada.Cheers, Don
Re: Blowouts Reply #4 – August 16, 2010, 07:42:31 pm Yahoo Message Number: 115482"This is an opportunity to promote Michelin's excellent safety video, "The Critical Factor," on how to handle a rig that has had a blowout. Some of the advice is counterintuitive, until they explain it!" If there was an RV 101 class, viewing of both of these videos would be required. "Things RV Owners Should Know" will answer most of your questions about tire maintenance. Pay attention! A lot of information is presented very quickly. The second video taught me something new; hit the gas when a blowout occurs to help counteract the side pull. Makes sense, it's the same as having one side of a vehicle hit a deep puddle or soft snow, you have to power out of it. Good stuff.Call the 800 number for their RV tire owners handbook.Larry
Re: Blowouts Reply #5 – August 16, 2010, 07:52:05 pm Yahoo Message Number: 115483wrote: Call the 800 number for their RV tire owners handbook. --- Larry, I think this is the same doc, and one can download a PDF at: http://www.michelinrvtires.com/assets/pdf/RV_Brochure_June2009.pdf Joan
Tires Reply #6 – February 17, 2011, 05:32:29 pm Yahoo Message Number: 120478We just bought tires from Tire Man . Maybe you should try a smaller independent tire guy who may have a better relationship with the manufacturer. We put on all steel Goodyear tires and really like them. Annie Olson Silver 09
Tires Reply #7 – May 22, 2011, 07:19:23 pm Yahoo Message Number: 122680I've done the search, now I'll just humbly ask: 2006 MB with Michelin OEM original tires LT 225/75R, 26,000 miles of hi-way driving. It's time for new skins although these tires have a lot of tread left, there is some radial checking that goes around the front tires, about a 1/4 inch from the rim. I've heard reports of Michelins having this problem on the steering tires, and was thinking of moving to the Goodyear Unisteel design. Anyone know if there is a "real," difference between the construction for these two brands? Goodyear states: Upgrade of belt package construction incorporating a full first belt and belt wire helps to improve footprint consistency and slip reduction to provide even wear with less scrub. But they don't have the M/S designation Michelins have. (sometimes we have to drive through light snow going over the passes between Arizona and Washington State) Just wanted to see what other folks are doing for replacement tires. Thanks, Jim Pappas Tacoma, WA P.S., If I do go to a different tire that means buying 7 tires to replace the spare
Re: Tires Reply #8 – May 22, 2011, 09:57:24 pm Yahoo Message Number: 122682Jim, check with America's Tires (or Discount Tires an affiliate of America's Tires) regarding the warranty on the tires. You may be out of the time frame. but I urge you to call them, or go by if you have a dealer near you. If not, call Michelin directly. I had all 6 tires changed about a year ago on my 06MB. The discount was about 80% - yes 80% because of the cracks on all tires around the wheels. Every one of the tires had them. They were not at a dangerous stage. But Michelin - through America's Tire Co - gave me a new set for about $110.00 bucks or thereabouts. Not each tire - for all six!! Do check it out. Of course keep in mind. these guarantees are based on the age date on the specific tire. Mine fell well within the staledates. By the way, we only had about 4,750 miles on the tires. We had purchased the 06 around Thanksgiving of 09. Had the tires changed about 10 or 11 months ago.Good Luck with the tires!!Barry "O" - Ruby Red[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: Tires Reply #9 – May 22, 2011, 10:35:32 pm Yahoo Message Number: 122683Late last year we replaced the original LTX tires on our 03' MB with Toyo Open Country H/T M/S tires at 47K Miles. Happy so far. We need the M/S rating as we seem to travel
Re: Tires Reply #10 – May 22, 2011, 10:49:24 pm Yahoo Message Number: 122684Quote "I've done the search, now I'll just humbly ask: 2006 MB with Michelin OEM original tires LT 225/75R, 26,000 miles of hi-way driving. It's time for new skins..."Jim Pappas Jim When my OEM Michelin's started going south (one flat & one blowout) I replaced them with Good Year 'G947 RSS, LT255/75R16 M+S at the recommendation of the Tire Man. They are fully steel belted and I have had no second thoughts about buying them, although a bit pricy.Steve S. Lazy Bones & Jiggs
Re: Tires Reply #11 – May 23, 2011, 09:45:16 am Yahoo Message Number: 122689lejest2003 wrote: When my OEM Michelin's started going south (one flat & one blowout) I replaced them with Good Year 'G947 RSS, LT255/75R16 M+S ---You mean *225* (not 255), yes?Joan
Re: Tires Reply #12 – May 23, 2011, 11:35:34 am Yahoo Message Number: 122693Quote---You mean *225* (not 255), yes?Joan Okay Hawkeye, just a Senior moment there! Last evening I took a pad and pen out to the side yard, got down on my hands and knees and wrote down exactly the wrong thing!!!!!!!!!!! Yes, you are correct, they are Good Year G947 RSS, LT225/75R16 M+S. They are just a bit firmer than the Michelins but I'm okay with that. Tire Man strikes again.Steve S. Lazy Bones & Jiggs
Re: Tires Reply #13 – May 25, 2011, 09:28:15 pm Yahoo Message Number: 122760Thanks Steve, I do thinkI'll go with the Goodyears, even at $300 a tire! I did notice the inflation rate was 80 PSI compared to 70 rear and 65 for the fronts that the mothership recommended. Stiffer riding, but should compensate for linkage slop and spring wear. Thanks, Jim Pappas Tacoma, WAWhen my OEM Michelin's srarted going south (one flat & one blowout) I replaced them with Good Year 'G947 RSS, LT255/75R16 M+S at the recommendation of the Tire Man. They are fully steel belted and I have had no second thoughts about buying them, although a bit pricy.
Re: Tires Reply #14 – May 25, 2011, 10:43:23 pm Yahoo Message Number: 122766Jim: I thought that all LT tires of the same size and load range use the same inflation table. Jack
Re: Tires Reply #15 – May 25, 2011, 11:15:36 pm Yahoo Message Number: 122772Quote "I did notice the inflation rate was 80 PSI compared to 70 rear and 65 for the fronts that the mothership recommended. Jim PappasJim Don't go by the max pressure that the tire Mnf. puts on the tire. Get your rig weighed and then consult the Mnf.'s recommendation for that tire, based on the weight of your rig.Steve S. Lazy Bones & Jiggs
Re: Tires Reply #16 – May 26, 2011, 03:10:02 pm Yahoo Message Number: 122787wrote: I did notice the inflation rate was 80 PSI compared to 70 rear and 65 for the fronts that the mothership recommended. --- Every load range E tire (LT 225/75R/16) that I know of, regardless of brand, offers the same *load specs* (for use as a single and/or as a dual) and has the same *maximum inflation pressure*, i.e., 80 pounds. A rig should be weighed on all corners (fully loaded and ready for the road) to determine the optimum tire pressures for that particular load; refer to the tire manufacturer's inflation tables.Joan
Re: Tires Reply #17 – May 26, 2011, 06:51:18 pm Yahoo Message Number: 122792Yes you're right Joan, And if we lived in a perfect world where the load never changes I would have weighed the rig once and be done with it. But since my wife believes we should carry wagon wheels, John Deere tractor seats, pretty rocks from the desert, and more shoes and clothes for the stick house back here in Washington, I'm going for the strongest tire money can buy! I think the Goodyear has my vote. Best, Jim Pappas Tacoma, WA
Re: Tires Reply #18 – May 27, 2011, 11:27:34 am Yahoo Message Number: 122804Joan wrote: "A rig should be weighed on all corners (fully loaded and ready for the road) to determine the optimum tire pressures for that particular load; refer to the tire manufacturer's inflation tables."Jim replied: "if we lived in a perfect world where the load never changes I would have weighed the rig once and be done with it. But since my wife believes we should carry [piles of stuff], I'm going for the strongest tire money can buy!" Seems to me you two aren't talking about the same thing. No question that you want good, strong tires, Jim. But Joan was talking about how much air you put into those tires. As she and others have pointed out, that "80 PSI" molded into your tires has nothing to do with how "strong" the tires are. It means you should never put in *more than* 80 PSI. Most important, it doesn't mean that 80 PSI should be your normal operating pressure. That's something you have to determine by weighing your rig. Maybe you're thinking that just to be on the safe side, you'll pump the tires up to the max. But that approach has drawbacks: it guarantees a rough ride, with lots of jolts and rattles. Your wife isn't going to like that. And it also means you're likely to see uneven tread wear, with the center of the tire wearing down faster then the edges. This just isn't a good approach. Try this: next time you're out, weigh the rig on the way home--after your wife has collected the odds and ends you described--so you have an idea of the worst-case scenario. Most large truckstops have scales you can use for a few dollars, and many state weigh stations will weigh you for free. Then you can use the tire manufacturer's charts to adjust your pressures accordingly. They will likely be different for front and rear, but must be the same for all tires on a given axle. This way you can optimize your ride... and when your wife wants to add "just one more thing," you can show her the weight printout and explain that you're already at capacity. :-)Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: Tires Reply #19 – May 27, 2011, 02:26:43 pm Yahoo Message Number: 122811Thanks Andy, But that has never worked with her before.(g) Like with our sailboat; I used to tell her that weight came on the boat in ounces that made pounds. I had to repaint the anti fouling paint higher three times since the boat sank deeper into the water over time. I understand about what everyone is saying about weighing the motorhome. I just didn't like the performance of the Michelin tires. Best, Jim Pappas Tacoma, WAThis way you can optimize your ride... and when your wife wants to add "just one more thing," you can show her the weight printout and explain that you're already at capacity. :-)
Re: Tires Reply #20 – May 27, 2011, 10:11:19 pm Yahoo Message Number: 122820Well written, Andy!! As usual, you explained the tire situation very well. Especially for newbies.Keep up the good work, and Thanks again.Barry "O" - 06MB Ruby Red[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: Tires Reply #21 – May 28, 2011, 01:23:22 pm Yahoo Message Number: 122830With reference to Andy's point that tires should not be inflated beyond the pressure molded into the tire, here's a quote from a 1994 printing of The RV Handbook by Bill Estes (pages 129 ff): "Ratings for light-truck tires also are molded on the sidewalls. However, they are different from passenger cars. The inflation pressure listed on the tire sidewall is the minimum for the maximum load....adding 10 psi to the minimum recommended pressure is appropriate with light-truck tires. The additional pressure should not violate the maximum inflation capacity of the wheel (rim); it does not increase the load-carrying capacity of the tire.... The additional 10 psi above minimum pressures for specific loads for light-truck tires stiffens the tire sidewall slightly, which may improve vehicle handling without a tendency to wear out the center of the tread. More important, it's insurance against underinflation that can occur from the slight presssure loss that gradually occurs with all tires--loss that shuld be detected and corrected with frequent pressure checking but often is not." (various emphases omitted) Estes goes on for a couple pages, discussing various examples. I've never been sure how much weight to put on his recommendation and would be interested
Re: Tires Reply #22 – May 28, 2011, 02:51:12 pm Yahoo Message Number: 122832"here's a quote from a 1994 printing of 'The RV Handbook' by Bill Estes... 'The inflation pressure listed on the tire sidewall is the minimum for the maximum load....adding 10 psi to the minimum recommended pressure is appropriate with light-truck tires. ' " I don't know whether this was true in 1994, but it's certainly not true now--it's dangerous advice. Inflating tires to 10 pounds more than the maximum pressure marked on the sidewall (that would be 90 pounds, in our case) would void your tires' warranties, if nothing else. Here's what Michelin says (http://www.michelinman.com/tire-care/tire-saving-tips/air-pressure-tips/): Recommended Pressure If you don't know the proper inflation air pressure for your tires, what do you do? Easy. Check at one of the following places on your vehicle:In the vehicle owners manual. On the vehicle's door jamb. (Often, a vehicle information placard is located on the door jamb along with the recommended tire inflation pressure.)Inside the fuel hatch filler flap. (In some vehicles.)The glove compartment door. (In some vehicles.) But NOT on the tire. The inflation pressure shown on the tire sidewall is only the *maximum* tire inflation pressure. All other online sources I found confirm this. For example, Edmunds.com says: Maximum Air Pressure This number refers to the maximum amount of air you can put in a tire before you harm it. It is not the recommended tire pressure; that number can be found in your owner's manual and on the doorjamb. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration: Tire manufacturers list the "maximum permissible inflation pressure" on the tire sidewall. This number is the greatest amount of air pressure that should ever be put in the tire under normal driving conditions. You get the message. Don't inflate to the 80-pound maximum unless the tire manufacturer's table says your rig's weight requires it. And don't EVER add ten pounds "just in case."Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: Tires Reply #23 – May 29, 2011, 09:58:47 am Yahoo Message Number: 122836Hey Andy, Evidently you can add air pressure for speeds over 65 MPH if I read this right. But not beyond the tires recommended specifications. (we usually run at 60 MPH)Goodyear G947 RSS Armor MAX http://www.goodyear.com/truck/pdf/edb_loads.pdf Best, Jim Pappas Tacoma, WA
Re: Tires Reply #24 – May 29, 2011, 10:59:01 am Yahoo Message Number: 122837That may be where Estes got his "plus ten pounds" advice. It's certainly interesting that Goodyear's data sheet contradicts what both Michelin and NHTSA, as well as many other sources, recommend. But as you noted, most of us have more sense than to routinely drive a motorhome at speeds above 65 mph, so even for those riding on Goodyear tires the rule remains the same: inflate by weight, and don't overinflate.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Topic: Tires (Read 16 times)
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Topic: Tires (Read 16 times)
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