Changing Water Pump May 25, 2024, 03:38:14 pm I’m going to replace our water pump and I have one question 🙋. After draining the fresh water tank and disconnecting the water lines, how much water will drain from the kitchen and BR water lines into the area in and around the pump?
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #1 – May 25, 2024, 04:53:29 pm Hi Ed; About 6 1/2 gallons. You need to drain the water heater too before removing the pump. My 'TK at 23 1/2 feet has a compact bundle of water lines. Your MidBath may drain more water than my rig would. Open the water faucets (hot and cold sides) and more water than you would think will drain out in a controlled fashion from the water heater tank. I have a quarter turn, ss ball, brass valve on the drain outlet of my water heater. I'm not familiar with a 2009 MB plumbing run from tank to pump. If like mine you have what looks like a 1/2" water hose connection from the FWTank to pump strainer, now would be a good time to put in a shutoff valve from the tank. RonB 1 Likes
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #2 – May 25, 2024, 05:19:32 pm Hi Ed; continued from above: I used a Parker valve. Inexpensive, small and easy to operate. PBPP8VUC8 from Parker Manual 2-Way Ball Valve, Barb, Polypro PBPP8VUC8 | Zoro . Parker specifies that: "The compact design allows for easy assembly and access where space is at a premium. Polypropylene ball valves meets all FDA and NSF-51 requirements for food contact." That means no lead or other nasties in this part. NSF/ANSI 51, Food Equipment Materials Update and Implications… | NSF There isn't really any pressure here, but I put small band clamps over the hose on top of the barb fittings anyway. I thought I had taken pictures, I did, but I obscured this valve. I'll have to take a better picture. This valve saved a lot of water and time while I was working on other water projects. i.e. toilet fresh water connections, and installing a 'T' in the pump output line with valve for a water filtration improvement. RonB 2 Likes
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #3 – May 25, 2024, 05:51:49 pm Greetings Ron ... your suggestions are certainly thoughtful and would be an excellent upgrade. In your reply you mentioned that I should drain the water heater and open all the hot and cold faucets. So that actually helps drain the water lines? I was thinking I should just use a compressor and blow all the lines, but if I understand your guidance that wouldn't be necessary. Finally, thank you for your guidance.
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #4 – May 25, 2024, 06:41:11 pm I just drain the water tank, put a towel down in the work area and disconnect the pump. Last time I did it I installed a ball valve like Ron suggested on the hot and cold going to the bathroom.jor
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #5 – May 26, 2024, 01:24:58 am Removing and reinstalling the plastic water heater drain plug is a minor nuisance. Has anyone replaced the drain plug with a valve? If so, what valve did you use?
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #6 – May 26, 2024, 04:28:14 am Hi Keith, I did many years ago. Just a quarter turn 1/8" ball valve. It is smaller and short. I used a 1/2" reducer for the small valve to fit into the drain plug hole. I have a hose barb on the outlet of the valve. I put a short length of clear vinyl flex hose on that. (keep it away from he flame area). That hose lets me empty the water heater into a 5 gallon bucket, and that goes to water container plants in the back yard. Sorry for the blurry picture. This is before I put a hose on it. I have flushed the tank with this valve in place, but I haven't noticed any white debris coming out. The drain valve reducer can be removed as necessary to clean the tank better. RonB edit, OK maybe a 1/4" valve... I'll have to go out and look at it. It is a pretty fast flow rate, so 1/4"... RonB
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #7 – May 26, 2024, 10:20:58 am Quotereplaced the drain plug with a valveWhat a great idea! Kudos to Ron. I see myself slapping my forehead for never even thinking about this. I think I've got a nice ball valve out in the garage and that baby is going on my LD for sure.jor
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #8 – May 26, 2024, 10:59:51 am Notes:1) The nylon drain plug used in Atwood water heaters is an over-pressure prevention feature. I had one blow out.2) Any brass part in the aluminum drain plug outlet will eventually seize up and may damage the outlet threads on removal.3) Plastic plugs (other than the nylon ones) are not rated for the water heater maximum temperature.4) Atwood 6- and 10-gallon replacement water heaters are no longer sold.5) Except for the 6-gallon unit, all replacements are of different size and require a new exterior door.Recommendations, based on above:1) Use the nylon plug.2) Carry spares.Mark H.
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #9 – May 26, 2024, 11:17:31 am Quote from: RonB - May 25, 2024, 05:19:32 pmHi Ed; continued from above: I used a Parker valve. Inexpensive, small and easy to operate. PBPP8VUC8 from Parker Manual 2-Way Ball Valve, Barb, Polypro PBPP8VUC8 | Zoro . Parker specifies that: "The compact design allows for easy assembly and access where space is at a premium. Polypropylene ball valves meets all FDA and NSF-51 requirements for food contact." That means no lead or other nasties in this part. NSF/ANSI 51, Food Equipment Materials Update and Implications… | NSF There isn't really any pressure here, but I put small band clamps over the hose on top of the barb fittings anyway. I thought I had taken pictures, I did, but I obscured this valve. I'll have to take a better picture. This valve saved a lot of water and time while I was working on other water projects. i.e. toilet fresh water connections, and installing a 'T' in the pump output line with valve for a water filtration improvement. Thanks for the link for the ball valve, Ron. That's a great price, even with shipping, so I just ordered a couple of them as I've been wanting the ability to isolate the water supply from the tank. I'll take a photo and post once it's complete.
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #10 – May 26, 2024, 01:10:21 pm Hi Mark H.: That plastic plug shouldn't be considered a pressure relief. The 'TPA' is the 150 psi relief valve: My water heater needed a 1/2" size. Camco from Amazon: Amazon.com: Camco 10423 1/2" Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve with 4"... . This valve is for pressure relief, and also functions as a temperature release at 210 degrees. Mostly I operate it to let air into the tank, so water will drain faster out of the drain. Or you can turn on just the hot water inside at a sink. That also lets air into the system to drain the hot water tank faster and out of the water lines (Ed). I had a left over 3/4" nipple that I sawed off to direct any dripping water away from the circuit board. (picture included). Usually I remember to turn off the water pump, and open the sink hot water faucet to let it drip into the sink. Air trapped at the top of the water heater tank is supposed to buffer that, but I don't always remember to refresh that. RonB 2 Likes As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #11 – May 26, 2024, 06:28:06 pm I drain the tank, not a bad thing to do occasionally, and lightly clamp the pump's outlet hose with a pair of needle-nose vise-gripes.A little water leaking is not an issue, It will dry quickly in the Texas summer heat. Long-term wetness is what causes rot..Keep a towel at hand to mop up any waterA little residual water is not an issue, It will dry quickly in the Texas summer heat. Long-term wetness is what causes rot.Larry. 1 Likes
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #12 – May 29, 2024, 07:33:46 pm We installed the new water pump this afternoon following much of the guidance in this post. On the other hand, let me just say that those who can replace the water pump in a MB without removing the electrical panel are much more talented and flexible than Margee and I. If we hadn’t removed the panel, it would have been so difficult removing the 2 screws on the far side of the pump. And it would have been much harder for us to inspect for water leaks.And that good LDOF Neighbors is the end of this repair despite a few bruises. 4 Likes
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #13 – May 31, 2024, 08:41:54 pm Tackled the water pump isolation valve install today. Like Ed discovered, it’s much easier to work in that area by setting aside the electrical panel/ converter assembly. It’s nice now to be able to work on the water system without having to drain the FW tank. 1 Likes
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #14 – June 01, 2024, 05:11:52 am I did the exact thig as you Greg but since I winterize I installed a three way valve so I can pull in RV antifreeze. Makes life a lot easier. Like you, there is no way I could work in there without removing the electrical panel.Jon 2 Likes
Re: Changing Water Pump Reply #15 – June 02, 2024, 09:55:33 am Jon, that was smart putting in a 3-way valve! Did not think to do that but if I still lived in the mountains that would have been preferred. I am hoping to get away with not having to winterize here in Paso Robles. 👍Another item I have been meaning to purchase are the water leak detectors that others have installed. Thought this was a good time to order these since the system is still accessible:Amazon.com: Zircon Leak Alert Water Leak Detector & Flood Sensor Alarm/Water... As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Topic: Changing Water Pump (Read 536 times)
previous topic - next topic
Topic: Changing Water Pump (Read 536 times)
previous topic - next topic