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Topic: Removing the TK shower valve assembly? (Read 336 times) previous topic - next topic
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Removing the TK shower valve assembly?
I’ve decided the best place to store my Oru kayak is in the shower of my TK.
I didn’t use the shower as a shower in year one, nor do I ever expect too.

The kayak kinda fits in the shower, though it’s at an awkward angle because of the shower valve & knobs are in the way.  I figure the kayak would fit much better if I removed the assembly that I’ll never use (but save the parts for someone in the future).

From what I’ve observed and read here, there aren’t any valves in the LD plumbing to isolate the water lines to the shower, and though I could add them, a bit wary of doing so, as it introduces another place for a leak to develop.

Instead, thinking of removing the entire shower assembly and capping off those lines, in such a way that it can be restored later if need be.

Any reason why this is a bad idea, or advice from those who have already removed the shower assembly (or replaced it)?

Thanks!
Dave

2017 TK

Re: Removing the TK shower valve assembly?
Reply #1
You should be able to do what you want -
The big issue I see (knowing lazydaze) is how well they attached the handles/shower head to the sink and can you get it off without harming the sink (typically a silicone sealant fastens this to the sink, but it is on a vertical (not horizontal) surface and it is in a LD.  Likely the sink can be repaired if needed (I am not sure what it is made of).

It is a little difficult to see details -
Close ups where the pipe connects to the handle fixture itself would help.

But if you can get the handle fixture off:

You may be lucky and have something you can attach to the end of the pipe going into the handle fixture.  I am not sure what yours will look like but here is some caps (official plumbing name) to give you ideas.  What pipe you have and any threading makes a difference.  And you may need nipples or adapters to change sizes or male/female ends if whatever is at the end of the pipe.

Goes in a pex pipe (no other fitting - just raw pex pipe) goes into inside of pex pipe -ID important and “should”. Be same across brands. 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-Plastic-PEX-B-Barb-Plug-5-Pack-PXPAP125PK/301541173

Sharkbite cam example - goes over outside of pipe so OD (outer dimension size is important and changes for different types of pipe and brands if pex).  Likely won’t work on threaded ends of pipe 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-Brass-End-Stop-Fitting-U514LFA/202270531

A fernco might work for you if find one by the right size (usually are larger diameters).  Ferncos are rubber and just need a tight connection where the clamp is - made for unusual sizes.  I have used a coupler one to connect an old 4” iron pipe to a new 4” abs pipe and it worked very well - I did leave an access panel just in case (and to be able to check it when the pressure test was done). 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-2-75-in-D-PVC-DWV-Flexible-Cap-PQC-101/100372302

Maybe even combine a fernco coupler and cap to get over longer threads…. It s fernco adapter and cap to change sizes.

More cap examples: The Home Depot Logo

Some nipple/adapter examples to give ideas:
Consider if you need male or female and convert  to female/male, as well as any size changes.
And type of connection (eg when you go shopping let them know it is under a sink as outside hose faucets are different.

The Home Depot Logo

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-x-1-2-in-FIP-Brass-Reducing-Coupling-Fitting-801919/300096767

If you can’t take the handle fixture with you, you make to buy several things and see what works best.

Worst case - cut the pipe and put a new connection for future use (or a shut off valve) and set it up so in the future a flexible supply hose (potable) can be put between the pipe and the handle fixture.
Jane & Scott
Currently have a 1989 TK  LD we did a lot of upgrades on.
Bigfoot 25RQ Twin on order with early summer 2024 ETA

Our smartphone autocorrects into very poor English.
 We disclaim the illusion of ignorance this creates as we have enough ignorance we rightly claim.

Re: Removing the TK shower valve assembly?
Reply #2

Hi Dave;  The underneath of the sink in the shower should be open to see what is there.  You might be able to just unscrew the fittings from the shower diverter valve assembly.  Remove the shower diverter and valves, and screw in plugs to dead end the pipes. This Dura faucet looks like what you have:  Amazon.com: Dura Faucet DF-SA100S-BQ RV/Motorhome/Trailer Shower Faucet...  .
     These 1/2" plugs should close off the supply pipes:  1/2" Black Poly Hex Head Plug Pipe Plastic Fittings 28604B
   Snap in plugs will fill the holes in the side of the sink.  I'd figure about 5/8" to 3/4" in white or beige.  Amazon.com: Suiwotin 30PCS 13mm (1/2") White Hole Plugs Plastic Flush Type...      Lots of sizes and colors.
  Hope this helps.   RonB     edited this AM:  you might get more clearance just by removing the knobs to the valve. An easy fix!

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB

Re: Removing the TK shower valve assembly?
Reply #3
Hi Dave;  On the other side of the wall is the kitchen sink.  It might be possible to completely remove the sink in the bathroom shower. That would leave just the toilet paper roll holder.  A screw in blanked off fitting for the drain ABS line where it goes through the wall to under the kitchen sink. Likewise the hot and cold lines could be blanked off under the kitchen sink.  Flat panels of 'bisque' color acrylic (rounded edges) would cover all of the holes and provide a finished look, possibly with tie downs for the kayak.  A niche into the wall, to under the kitchen sink compartment, for the toilet paper roll would still be in reaching distance from the toilet.
   To retain resale value you would need to restore all of that for the new customer. Many people rely on campground showers, fitness club showers or 'sponge' baths. You might find a buyer who prefers it more as a wet storage location. 
RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB

Re: Removing the TK shower valve assembly?
Reply #4
Thanks for the great feedback Scott and Ron!

I’m going to start with just the removal of the shower diverter and cap the two pipes, that should be enough space and easiest to restore at a later date.

It’s pretty clear from this photo from underneath the sink.
Dave

2017 TK

Re: Removing the TK shower valve assembly?
Reply #5
Dave - a much better picture.

You might be able to get a nipple that fits into the female threaded fittings at the end of the hose and then a cap that threads onto the other side of that nipple. 

Or you might need to build something such as a fernco coupler on the pipe just before the female fitting at the end of the hose - to build up the size of that hose diameter, clamp that coupler down tight so it is leak proof, then put a fernco cap over the coupler - clamped down tight.

All sorts of creative things could done,
-  if you find a nipple but not a cap or have some leaks try some jbweld sealant made for under water applications to seal up the nipple hike or maybe some of the silicon fusing tape Andy discussed in another thread (Rescue tape) that has worked for him - I saw that same style tape at Home Depot but I have not used it yet.

Since this is all temporary it can look ugly as long as it works and can easily removed back to the original parts you want to keep.

Let us know what you end up doing.
Jane & Scott
Currently have a 1989 TK  LD we did a lot of upgrades on.
Bigfoot 25RQ Twin on order with early summer 2024 ETA

Our smartphone autocorrects into very poor English.
 We disclaim the illusion of ignorance this creates as we have enough ignorance we rightly claim.

Re: Removing the TK shower valve assembly?
Reply #6
Was a simple job, once I had the parts, and the shower faucet removed.   By having it with me at the hardware store in Morro Bay, was easy to confirm it fits.

Ended up using 1/2” PVC threaded plugs, no leaks so far.

Now the Oru kayak fits in the “shower”.

Thanks for all the help!
Dave

2017 TK

Re: Removing the TK shower valve assembly?
Reply #7
Good job, but watch the bottom fitting in the picture it looks cross threaded.

Jon
1994 MB