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Topic: Solar Storage Phase 1 Complete (Read 226 times) previous topic - next topic
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Solar Storage Phase 1 Complete
Phases 1-7ish (of indefinite phases) of my solar power/storage conversion is complete (sans any solar).  This included:

1) removal of all existing battery/wiring
2) create compartment for hardware
3) install Victron inverter/charger, lynx dist.,24/12 dcdc converter, bmv, control panel
4) crimp, run and connect new wiring
5) connect 412ah, 24v SOK LifePo4 battery bank to said hardware
6) upgrade all firmware and configure settings
7) marvel at technology

For an added challenge, add hardwired progressive industries EMS.  While so doing I somehow broke the existing 17 y/o transfer switch during rewire, so I replaced with the new model which is soooo much easier to connect thanks to a busbar.

Next phase(s)

1). Mount 4 x 440w Aptos DNA 144cell Mono Panels by removing vent rain covers and using 7” stand offs
2). Crimp, run and  Connect in parallel
3). Connect to MPPT solar charge controller
4). Find sun
~7) build dinette bench seat to conceal battery bank (and for sits/eats)
37) relax for a few
38) fix unsightly gap where new system monitor covers old mPPT hole

Battling post acute COVID syndrome during this build so organizing/securing the wires will have to wait.
Re: Solar Storage Phase 1 Complete
Reply #1 –
Hi Howard; Glad you survived the CV19!  Wishing you a fast recovery.  Great pictures. With 1600 watts of solar, and that much SOK battery, you'll be able to run air conditioning now. Or even a Toaster oven.
   You really should get a better converter and upgraded fuse panel to be able to charge from shore power or generator faster.   RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Solar Storage Phase 1 Complete
Reply #2 –
😂 yes my goal is to finally be able to make pop tarts. 

Thank you.  I’m young-ish and otherwise healthy so the 2 day COVID cold was not a big deal but then I developed the post COVID syndrome which is awful.  It’s been getting progressively better but 3 months on and I’m still foggy and fatigued.

I’ve removed the converter completely and the EMS now lives in that compartment.  The parallax is used solely as AC/DC distribution panel now.  The Victron inverter/charger takes the incoming AC and/or solar power directly and charges the batteries at up to 70amps.

I am considering upgrading the dist panels to BlueSea…because…well…bluesea is so nice.

I am trying to figure out the best way to keep my generator connected as a backup power source.  I did keep it wired in through the transfer switch but it no longer is connected to a startup battery…the alternator is also disconnected. 

Should I get a 12v AGM battery and reconnect it to alternator and generator?

Quote from: RonB  - 
Hi Howard; Glad you survived the CV19!  Wishing you a fast recovery.  Great pictures. With 1600 watts of solar, and that much SOK battery, you'll be able to run air conditioning now. Or even a Toaster oven.
   You really should get a better converter and upgraded fuse panel to be able to charge from shore power or generator faster.   RonB
Re: Solar Storage Phase 1 Complete
Reply #3 –
Hi Howard;  I'd leave the rain covers on those vent caps. If some fumes came out of the tanks directly onto the backside of the solar panel, it could harm the panels.  Tank treatment chemicals often decompose into chlorine gas.
   Those 'Trucker" night sleeper A/C units might be a good addition to your roof and might help you and the pooch stay cool. 1600 Watts with say 80-100 Amps available, especially when your batteries are full at 10:00 AM, would let you run a Dometic RTX2000 continually.  Truly solar powered air conditioning.   You would need enough roof space for that A/C and the panels.    RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Solar Storage Phase 1 Complete
Reply #4 –
Quote from: RonB  - 
Hi Howard;  I'd leave the rain covers on those vent caps. If some fumes came out of the tanks directly onto the backside of the solar panel, it could harm the panels.  Tank treatment chemicals often decompose into chlorine gas.
   Those 'Trucker" night sleeper A/C units might be a good addition to your roof and might help you and the pooch stay cool. 1600 Watts with say 80-100 Amps available, especially when your batteries are full at 10:00 AM, would let you run a Dometic RTX2000 continually.  Truly solar powered air conditioning.   You would need enough roof space for that A/C and the panels.    RonB

Thanks for the tip, will do.  The panels I ended up getting (LG Neon 435w) are small enough that there could be almost 24" free along the driver side roof which should allow plenty of space to walk and leave those vent caps.

Regarding A/C, the Houghton Belaire AC3400 I currently have installed is more efficient and requires less inrush current to start up (no softstart device needed) than traditional RV units from Dometic and others although reliability remains to be seen as the first unit I had crapped out after 18 months.  I did a trial run and was able to start and run A/C at nominal level (70deg full fan) for the necessary hours of the day (~7.5hrs).  I'll test it out with charging, A/C and panels as soon as I get the panels installed.  If it's not going to work I think I'm going to do a mini split install project as those are so much more efficient.