Log In | Register
Skip to main content
Topic: Oil Change (Read 898 times) previous topic - next topic
0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
Oil Change
Up until now I have had our oil changes all done at one of two shops....but they are booked out for the next 6 weeks....so it looks like I'll be doing the oil changes (both generator and engine) myself.  I know I can reach the generator drain plug easily but for the engine drain and filter do I need to raise the front end or can I reach by crawling underneath?  We have a 2013 with the Ford E-450 6.8L V-10.  Also do you need to replace the drain bolt washers on both?

Thanks,

Bill
2013 31' Silver Twin Bed
Semi-retired 6/21....

Re: Oil Change
Reply #1
So Bill, how often do you change the oil in the generator? I waited until I had 100 hours on my genset to change the oil. Just sitting there, the oil doesn't change (age) much. I don't recall there being a washer on the generator, but I have the Emerald II, so it could be different.  If you don't fit under the engine, ramps can make it easier to reach the drain plug. I just reuse the crushable gasket a few times, before I replace it. Haven't had any leaks yet, Certainly haven't had any drain plugs fall out on their own.   RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB

Re: Oil Change
Reply #2
I change the engine oil and filter without raising the front end; I push all the stuff needed under the rig from the front, then wiggle under the passenger side running board to reach the drain. It’s not ideal, but it’s doable. 😉
2003 TK has a new home

Re: Oil Change
Reply #3
Bill,

I service the generator myself. After changing the oil prior to my Yellowstone trip in 2020, I noticed a small drip below the drain plug while at campground in route.

I tightened the plug only slightly. Even without running the genny, the drip increased. When I returned home from the trip, I noticed the drip had created a pool of oil on my driveway. Checking the Onan manual, I did not see any mention of a crush gasket or anything that resembled a washer.

I went on Amazon and found a high temperature non-drying sealant. I cleaned the plug, used the sealant on the plug and tightened to manufacture specs. I refilled the oil and it has been leak free ever since.

Strange. I had serviced the generator oil in the past and it never dripped a drop. 🧐

Kent
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"

Re: Oil Change
Reply #4
There's room.  You can drive up on some leveling blocks for a little more clearance. 

Rich
2003 MB

Re: Oil Change
Reply #5
Kent, I think you’re right about the lack of a crush washer for the generator.  The model KY manual does state to tighten the drain plug to 21 ft. lbs., though.
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264

Re: Oil Change
Reply #6
If the drain plug leaks and a crsuh washer isn't used or a new new available, i would fix the leak by using Teflon tape, applying two or three wraps to the drain plug, not letting any of the tape protrude past the threads where it can get into the crankcase.
An autotmotive teflon thread sealant could also be used.
Permatex® Thread Sealant with PTFE – Permatex
Before using either product, clean the drain plug, removing any oil.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: Oil Change
Reply #7

For people with the old Emerald generator; I had such a hard time operating the oil drain valve (it came with) that I put in one of these  Amazon.com: EZ Oil Drain Valve EZ-8 Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack: Automotive    along with an elbow to drain through the bottom pan (I had to enlarge that hole) it makes it really easy to drain the oil.
   Evidently the Microquiet generator has a drain plug.      RonB

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB


Re: Oil Change
Reply #9
My opinion is that this Ford engine is the easiest vehicle I have ever changed the oil on. Neither my 2003 Ford V-10, nor the Onan Microquiet genset have crush rings or gaskets on the drain plugs. Here are some suggestions to make the job go more safely for you and your rig.

1. Swing the rig's mirrors in close to the door! Trust me, it hurts when you stand up after crawling out from under the rig and you bang your head on the mirrors.

2. A good oil filter wrench that grips the filter tightly makes the job easier. I am not a fan of the oil filter wrench that just slides onto the bottom of the oil filter since they often slip because the previous mechanic over tightned the filter.

3. Make sure the oil filter gasket comes off with the old oil filter. Sometimes it remains on the filter housing. If the removed filter does not have the gasket on it, remove the old gasket from the filter mounting housing with your fingers. Leaving it behind will lead to a disaster.

4. I make it a practice to fill the new oil filter with oil before installing it. Also make sure you smear oil on the new filter gasket.

5. I use large sheets of cardboard to slide the drain pan on and my body on. It saves on spills and scrapes.

On my generator drain plug, I have found that using Rectorseal #5 on the threads will help prevent leaks.

Take your time and don't let distractions cause a mistake. Buy beer with all the money you saved and you will never pay someone to change the oil on your Lazy Daze again.

Steve K.
Steve K

2003 Mid-bath

Re: Oil Change
Reply #10
My opinion is that this Ford engine is the easiest vehicle I have ever changed the oil on. Neither my 2003 Ford V-10, nor the Onan Microquiet genset have crush rings or gaskets on the drain plugs. Here are some suggestions to make the job go more safely for you and your rig.

1. Swing the rig's mirrors in close to the door! Trust me, it hurts when you stand up after crawling out from under the rig and you bang your head on the mirrors.

2. A good oil filter wrench that grips the filter tightly makes the job easier. I am not a fan of the oil filter wrench that just slides onto the bottom of the oil filter since they often slip because the previous mechanic over tightned the filter.

3. Make sure the oil filter gasket comes off with the old oil filter. Sometimes it remains on the filter housing. If the removed filter does not have the gasket on it, remove the old gasket from the filter mounting housing with your fingers. Leaving it behind will lead to a disaster.

4. I make it a practice to fill the new oil filter with oil before installing it. Also make sure you smear oil on the new filter gasket.

5. I use large sheets of cardboard to slide the drain pan on and my body on. It saves on spills and scrapes.

On my generator drain plug, I have found that using Rectorseal #5 on the threads will help prevent leaks.

Take your time and don't let distractions cause a mistake. Buy beer with all the money you saved and you will never pay someone to change the oil on your Lazy Daze again.

Steve K.
Re genset oil change, I installed this device which makes changing oil a breeze: EZ Oil Drain Valve- The Easiest Oil Change! - Home

Chris
Formerly: 2002 30' IB

Re: Oil Change
Reply #11
Thanks everyone for the suggestions and comments!

Being newly retired has given me the time I needed to have fun doing my own work!!!

Bill
2013 31' Silver Twin Bed
Semi-retired 6/21....

Re: Oil Change
Reply #12
I have been using this company's products on all of our vehicles for decades Fumoto oil drain valves .

Charles
Harvest Hosts + Boondockers Welcome #23975
Escapees SKP #138195
2007 23.5' Twin King

Re: Oil Change
Reply #13
"I have been using this company's products on all of our vehicles for decades Fumoto oil drain valves."

I don't do my other vehicles, but have always changed the oil and filter on the RV. I got one of the Fumoto valves as soon as I learned about them. It's a great solution instead of R & R of the drain plug when it's time to change the oil! I've always (easily) gone under from the front.
Bill
2003 -- 23' FL

Re: Oil Change
Reply #14
I did not think of replacing the plug with an oil drain valve, but I can sure see the advantages, particularly for arthritic hands. Fumoto has two products (for my 2003 [see link below] and probably for many other years); one has a 15mm hose nipple. This one seems like it would be less "dribbly", but is not recommended for any vehicle with limited ground clearance. I think that the E450 has pretty good "ground clearance", but since no specs or measurements as to what constitutes being "close to the ground" are given on the Fumoto site, I don't know. For those of you who have installed the Fumoto drain valve, which do you have?

https://www.fumotousa.com/cars-pickups-ford-2003-e-450-super-duty-stripped-chassis-6-8l-v10
2003 TK has a new home

Re: Oil Change
Reply #15
4. I make it a practice to fill the new oil filter with oil before installing it. Also make sure you smear oil on the new filter gasket.

Good advice, not filling the filter, before installing, will cause the engine to start with zero oil pressure for several seconds, a slight rattle might be noticed while the filters fills. It’s best not to hear it.

The Fumoto valves Joan listed work great. The long nipple valve version allows connecting a plastic hose to drain the oil cleanly into a disposable container(s), which should be taken to the auto parts store or your city's haz-mat centers drop-off center for recycling..
F106N - Engine Oil Drain Valve with Nipple 14mm-1.5 | FUMOTO

Oil filter recycling should be done if your area has a program to receive them. In commercial use, the filters are crushed, used oil collected, and the remains bagged and sent to a haz-mat service.
We do not have a local fiter recycling programe, so the used filter is turned upside down and well drain before disposal.

The best prices on oil, at this time, is Walmart, occasionally Costco has sales on Mobil 1, the oil I use in all my vehicles.

Larry



Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: Oil Change
Reply #16
Oh, goody! Something else to spend money on for the LD! One never runs out of those opportunities!  ;)

Thanks to the posters who recommended the drain valves!
2003 TK has a new home

Re: Oil Change
Reply #17
I did not think of replacing the plug with an oil drain valve, .... For those of you who have installed the Fumoto drain valve, which do you have?

https://www.fumotousa.com/cars-pickups-ford-2003-e-450-super-duty-stripped-chassis-6-8l-v10

Joan, last year I installed the F106 N drain valve. One of the motivations for installing the drain valve was to make it easier to take an oil sample for analysis. I think you mentioned having your oil analyzed a couple years ago. Using a tube on the drain valve should make for even neater oil changes too.

With the drain valve you no longer get an arm full of hot oil when you pull the drain plug.

Steve K.
Steve K

2003 Mid-bath



Re: Oil Change
Reply #20
I went with the nipple & hose option as well to reduce wind splatter. You’re not out of the woods yet though, Joan unless you’ve found a clever way to eliminate the spray from the oil filter socket.

- Warren
Warren
2019 MB “Dream Catcher”
Jeep Wrangler JL

Re: Oil Change
Reply #21
Oh, goody! Something else to spend money on for the LD! One never runs out of those opportunities!  ;)

I am quickly finding that out as well.

I don’t know what the cost of having the oil professionally changed is but I imagine it is substantial over the years. Sounds like a drain valve kit is a good investment. Just ordered mine- what’s another 50 bucks?  🤪
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264

Re: Oil Change
Reply #22
"I don’t know what the cost of having the oil professionally changed is but I imagine it is substantial over the years."
---
I'm sure that oil and filter change costs, service availability, and convenience levels for RVs vary a great deal by location. I change the oil and filter (and air filter) on my LD because the LD is kept at my home, I can order oil and filters online (or pick these up locally), curbside oil and filter recycling is available, and I don't have to drive the rig across the city in heavy traffic and sit and wait around for a couple hours at the shop until they can get to it. The local shop labor rate is close to $200 per hour, and the oil and filter costs are far higher from the parts department than from Walmart or an online source; a simple oil and filter change at this shop (it is one of the few places around here which will service an RV at all) runs about $75 - $100 and requires at least four hours of "travel and wait" time.

Not having curbside engine oil and filter recycling might be a deal breaker for me; if that service were not available, I would either have to use a shop or haul the oil jugs to a recycling yard. Doing an oil and filter change is hardly rocket science, and as long as I can physically manage to do the job, I will.

As ever, YMMV.
2003 TK has a new home

Re: Oil Change
Reply #23
Joan, you go girl! 👍👍
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264

Re: Oil Change
Reply #24
"I don’t know what the cost of having the oil professionally changed is but I imagine it is substantial over the years."
---
I'm sure that oil and filter change costs, service availability, and convenience levels for RVs vary a great deal by location. I change the oil and filter (and air filter) on my LD because the LD is kept at my home, I can order oil and filters online (or pick these up locally), curbside oil and filter recycling is available, and I don't have to drive the rig across the city in heavy traffic and sit and wait around for a couple hours at the shop until they can get to it. The local shop labor rate is close to $200 per hour, and the oil and filter costs are far higher from the parts department than from Walmart or an online source; a simple oil and filter change at this shop (it is one of the few places around here which will service an RV at all) runs about $75 - $100 and requires at least four hours of "travel and wait" time.

Our challenges to self maintenance are: 1) the rig is stored indoors about 40 miles away 2) no curbside oil pickup (you have to take to an auto parts store, gas station or county site) 3) the HOA doesn't allow self maintenance except "in your garage" and that's that happening with an RV ..........hence our reliance on 3rd parties...but with everything booked up until July 29th I'm looking to drive to my Mom's house (where I grew up) and doing it myself...actually quite excited about doing it as growing up I did all the maintenance on the our cars plus my girlfriend's (now married for 42 years).....I'm going to experience this first try "au natural" but will probably invest in one of the above mentioned drip valves.

Not having curbside engine oil and filter recycling might be a deal breaker for me; if that service were not available, I would either have to use a shop or haul the oil jugs to a recycling yard. Doing an oil and filter change is hardly rocket science, and as long as I can physically manage to do the job, I will.

As ever, YMMV.
2013 31' Silver Twin Bed
Semi-retired 6/21....