lighting the oven March 28, 2015, 11:07:34 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151898Im having trouble getting the oven to light in my '84, i can get the pilot light lit, but the long bar wont light so i cant use the oven, any ideas on what to do?
Re: lighting the oven Reply #1 – March 29, 2015, 12:01:21 am Yahoo Message Number: 151901Just went through this today myself. Not sure if yours is the same (mine is an '88) but I had to pull the owners manual out, and it says the pilot has to be lit for several minutes for the thermo coupler to heat up and open, then you can turn the oven up to the desired temperature. It took 3 or 4 minutes heat up, then it was fine. Hope this helps!
Re: lighting the oven Reply #2 – March 29, 2015, 12:13:05 am Yahoo Message Number: 151902On my 2001 stove only have to light pilot for 15-20 seconds before I can crank up the heat. Still takes about 1 minute before the whole oven burner ignites. I don't know why they didn't use a piezo igniter for the pilot. It's awkward to sit on the floor so you can get a pipe lighter in there to light pilot.bobmoore14
Re: lighting the oven Reply #3 – March 29, 2015, 11:33:20 am Yahoo Message Number: 151907I went through more than two years of wrestling with my Atwood Wedgewood Vision Oven. Here is what finally worked:1. Remove the knob.2. Put a ball of aluminum foil in the hole.3. Press the knob and use a butane lighter to light the pilot.4. Keep the knob depressed and let the pilot stay lit for 5 seconds to heat up the thermocouple.5. Release the knob. The pilot should stay lit.6. Turn the knob to the desired temperature.Basically, it just lets one depress the knob further than before. What a relief to have an oven that lights on the first try now, every time!I first read about this simple fix here:
Re: lighting the oven Reply #4 – March 29, 2015, 11:47:22 am Yahoo Message Number: 151910"I don't know why they didn't use a piezo igniter for the pilot. It's awkward to sit on the floor so you can get a pipe lighter in there to light pilot."A battery powered igniter, the type used on propane BBQs and stoves, could be adapted to eliminate the difficult lighting sequence. No idea why this approach is not used. http://www.lowes.com/pd_361422-451-9086459_4294610376__?productId=50292461&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=Larry
Re: lighting the oven Reply #5 – March 29, 2015, 12:11:48 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151912Hi folks,Just a couple of thoughts on this matter. First: thermo couplers do go bad after time. I've had this happen with my hot water heater and my oven at the "sticks and bricks" home. The end result is much as you described or no ignition at all. Thermo couplers are relatively inexpensive and pretty straight forward to replace. Second: And this is just a presumption on my part, but one reason I can think of for not having a piezo electric starter in an RV oven could be for safety. Just imagine what would happen if a gas leak occurred in the oven line and the piezo ignited after gas accumulated over a period of time (driving down the road while things are rocking & rolling). This could spell disaster. RV's are very susceptible to fire. Not a good thing. So I would think twice about installing an after market piezo in your RV oven. The stove top is a different matter since gas can't pool and accumulate in the open (gas rises after all).Just a thought.Kent
Re: lighting the oven Reply #6 – March 29, 2015, 12:54:33 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151914On my '03 the oven has a "pilot safety valve" that is a hydraulically activated valve. When the pilot is lit, the flame heats up a fluid in the sensor which exerts pressure on a diaphragm, opening the main valve and allowing gas flow to the oven burner. If the pilot flame is weak, it may not create adequate heat\pressure to open the main valve. If it has been reliable until recently, assuming adequate gas pressure, it is possible that there is a small restriction in gas flow to the pilot.If the pilot flame seems strong and is fully impinging on the sensor, I would suspect that the main diaphragm may be sticking, or more likely that the sensor capillary has chafed somewhere along its length and lost part or all of the liquid charge. A replacement is the only remedy in that case.Hope this helps.Bill 2003--23'FL
Re: lighting the oven Reply #7 – March 29, 2015, 12:59:19 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151915The stove top is a different matter since gas can't pool and accumulate in the open (gas rises after all).--- Propane is heavier than air, and "sinks"; this is why LPG detectors are located at floor level.Joan
Re: lighting the oven Reply #8 – March 29, 2015, 01:09:07 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151917Kent said: " gas can't pool and accumulate in the open (gas rises after all)." Hot gasses rise, That is why the carbon monoxide detector and smoke detector are located high on the wall or ceiling. Propane is heavier than air (specific gravity = 1.5219) and sinks to the floor. That is why the propane detector is located near the floor. RonB
Re: lighting the oven Reply #9 – March 29, 2015, 01:18:34 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151918Amen! Getting to the floor is not the problem, but getting back up again is sometimes a challenge.
Re: lighting the oven Reply #10 – March 29, 2015, 01:29:14 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151920Good to know--Mac the Fire Guy at the Escapees Boot Camp recommended shutting off the gas when driving...this seems like another good reason to shut it off.
Re: lighting the oven Reply #11 – March 29, 2015, 02:34:45 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151927I stand corrected. Thanks for that. What about the lack of the piezo igniter in the oven? Any thoughts on that?Kent
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Topic: lighting the oven (Read 14 times)
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