Intro and a question March 12, 2015, 10:43:48 am Yahoo Message Number: 151526Hello everyone, My wife and I just purchased a 1991 TK and while it needs some work, we think it is basically sound. I am sure I will have many more questions in the future, but to start I have one about the best way to fix some rotted wood. I removed the rear bumper to get it powder coated (the paint was peeling) and found some rotted wood at the rear passenger side behind the bumper that extends up ~2" and is ~5" across. At this point I am not planning to peel the siding back and do a complete wood replacement and so I am looking for a way to make a decent localized repair of the area. I was thinking about getting the rotted wood out, placing a temporary mold around the area and then using the Pond Stone expanding foam to fill the void. Any thoughts on doing the repair this way or a suggestions on a better way would be appreciated.TIA, Jay
Re: Intro and a question Reply #1 – March 12, 2015, 01:08:56 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151529You might be able to use a penetrating epoxy. This is a two-part liquid that soaks into bad wood and plasticizes. If the wood is fully soaked, it becomes plastic; that should solve the problem. It's messy and difficult to apply.In Northern California it's available at Mr. Smith in Richmond. http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/Wooden boat people sometimes use it, but would usually prefer to replace rotted parts.John
Re: Intro and a question Reply #2 – March 12, 2015, 01:29:20 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151530A search of the message board will bring up many past posts on wood rot repair; use the "Search Conversations" bar at the top of any page on the message board website.Joan
Re: Intro and a question Reply #3 – March 12, 2015, 08:20:41 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151538The stuff wooden boat people use is Git Rot. The rotted wood should be dry when you use it, just drill some holes and inject with the plastic bottle which comes with the kit. I have used it several times with good results. Good place to find it would be West marine.Ian
Re: Intro and a question Reply #4 – March 12, 2015, 11:26:54 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151548Ian and John, Thanks for the tips. I will try the local marine shops and see if I can find it. It sounds like just what I need.Joan, I have tried searching for things, but for some reason I do not have full functionality of the group even though I am signed in. I can post messages, but cannot seem to access anything else. Whenever I try to search for things, I receive a message back that says I must be a member to view/do that. I contacted Andy about the problem, but he is not sure what is going on. It is unfortunate as I would like to access the classifieds as we need some things.Jay --
Re: Intro and a question Reply #5 – March 13, 2015, 12:14:41 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151552JayBefore you get to involved, understand how the rot occurred. Rot, above the bottom of the rear wall, is caused by leakage coming down from a leaking rear window, a leaking spare tire well or, in rare cases, from leaking side seams. The moisture does not rise. Your plan to fill the rotted area with foam will only trap more water and will move the rot even higher. Spray foam IS NOT an accepted RV repair material. I suggest finding the leak and sealing it before proceeding. i would not waste my money on Git-rot or any other "miracle" in a bottle, the only real fix is to remove and replace the rotted wood. Sorry but there is no easy or quick way to repair this.Take this advice if you want, it is based on twenty years of LD repair experience. Finding any "minor" rot is always a good reason to reject the purchase of any RV, there is no way to know how bad the damage is until disassembly....and it's always worse than suspected.Larry
Re: Intro and a question Reply #6 – March 13, 2015, 03:51:48 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151556Thanks Larry and excellent advice. The resealing is on the list of things to do (probably next month), but I am looking for something to do in this particular area until I can do further repair work. It appeared to me the bumper was rusted from launching some type of water vehicle and so it needed to be re-coated, and when I removed the bumper, that is when I discovered the rot. I could always just leave it as is for now, but was hoping there is an interim solution that could be used until I am able to go in deeper. --
Re: Intro and a question Reply #7 – March 14, 2015, 12:44:11 am Yahoo Message Number: 151557JaySince the bumper is off and you need something solid to attach the upper, vertical section of the bumper to, removed the rotted bottom piece, it's just a 2X4. Replace all the1/4" hardware. It isn't a big deal to do. It will add a lot of strength. I would coat any damaged plywood with marine epoxy to regain as much structural strength as possible . If you cure the leak that caused all this damage in the first place, these repairs may last a long time. With old motorhomes, it's a tradeoff as to how far the repairs go.My preferred adhesives for rot repairs are 3M 5200 Fast Cure and marine epoxy, thickened with wood flour when gap filling is needed. I have had little success using penetrating epoxy, due to the next to total lack control of where it ends ups. It's too expensive to experiment with and you never know how much wood was actually repaired. Better to open the wall up and make a more proper repair. Many times, it is much easier to remove the inner walls to access rot, instead of removing the exterior panels or peeling the skin back. The curved caps are PIA to deal with, often being destroyed in the process.Larry
Re: Intro and a question Reply #8 – March 14, 2015, 10:06:06 am Yahoo Message Number: 151558"My preferred adhesives for rot repairs are 3M 5200 Fast Cure and marine epoxy, thickened with wood flour when gap filling is needed."---- "Wood flour" sounded self-explanatory, but I looked it up anyway! Makes sense.... ;-)http://www.mertons.com/Additives/flour.htmlJoan
Re: Intro and a question Reply #9 – March 14, 2015, 04:26:47 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151561I like to tell a little positive experience about penetrating epoxy. My sort-of glib recommendation neglects the difficulty Larry names - access to the rotten parts. The stuff works fine *if* you can apply it.Here's how I would use it: Be sure you can reach the top of the rotted section so the liquid can flow down into the spoiled part. That might be a show-stopper in many RV applications. Use a paint-brush and soak the outer surface of the wood aggressively for the half-hour or so the it takes to catalyze. The stuff soaks into rotted wood really fast, so it feels like I'm shoveling the liquid with my brush. It's a messy job. Make sure you've got fresh air so you don't breathe it. That might be another show-stopper in your LD. Mask EVERYTHING and don't get any on you. Any drips that fall anywhere will harden to plastic, so use lots of rags and newspaper. There is a benefit if the job can be completed. If successful, then the part isn't rotten wood anymore, it's plastic.John
Re: Intro and a question Reply #10 – March 14, 2015, 06:02:48 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151565I would be worried about structural integrity in a rig where the wood framing was rotted. Filling it with this penetrating epoxy seems like a band aid fix with no way to check where the epoxy really penetrated. Watch out for cabinets falling off walls, more leaks causing further damage, etc. When something gets cancer you have to remove the growth, if possible. True of more than just RV's BTW.bobmoore14
Re: Intro and a question Reply #11 – March 14, 2015, 07:25:18 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151566Well System Three doesn't sell any junk and they have a very similar product....http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/Rot-Fix-c39.htmI have used Get Rot in marine application on a wood Transom holding an 85 horse motor with many years of service after the repair...May not be the ideal but often the ideal isn't practical.Garry
Re: Intro and a question Reply #12 – March 14, 2015, 08:10:47 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151567"Well System Three doesn't sell any junk and they have a very similar product....http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/Rot-Fix-c39.htmI have used Get Rot in marine application on a wood Transom holding an 85 horse motor with many years of service after the repair...May not be the ideal but often the ideal isn't practical."GaryI'm well familiar with System 3 epoxies. Just finished using a 1-1/2 gallon of their epoxy a little over a week ago. https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157650192354430/show The launching and sea trails this week, after the Yahoo West GTG, were successful. Git-Rot type epoxy is great stuff IF you can contain it in the rotted wood, it has a very low viscosity and will seep through the tiniest holes. A transom is accessible from several sides and can be taped, if needed, to contain the fluid epoxy until it cures. Rotted wood inside a wall that you cannot see, much less access, isn't a good candidate for this repair. If you strip the paneling back far enough to get to the rotted wood, you might as well either replace it or sister a new piece of wood or metal to it, no need to try to try this expensive repair. If the framing, inside of a wall, is rotted, the paneling needs to come off anyway since it will be damaged too.I have done more than my fair share of these repairs and there is no quick and easy way to get to and repair the rot. There is a very good reason why I constantly stress the need to search for rot BEFORE the check is written. Any sign of rot should be a automatic disqualifier, you cannot tell how bad it is until the walls are opened up. Too many LDs have been bought by members of this site with extensive rot damage, many basically worthless since the cost of a reliable repair is more than what the coach is worth. Those who have gone ahead with repairs are always amazed that it takes several times more time and money to get the rig in usable shape than what was estimated. Optimism isn't always a good quality to have when buying an used RV.Larry
Re: Intro and a question Reply #13 – March 14, 2015, 11:04:52 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151568A few years ago I bought an old 19 ft sailboat (Lightning) as restoration project which was built in the early 60's. This boat was injected with this stuff in quite a few areas: Centerboard trunk. mast support, keel, chimes, etc. etc. Although I bought this boat sight~unseen. I was aware of it from pictures. However, upon tearing into the spots there wAs clear evidence that some of these repairs were not injected properly, resulting in more dry rot beyond the injected areas. For me it required a lot of repairs and rebuilding, but that what I bought this boat for. Even if one uses this stuff I suggest to read up on it and know how yo use it. I rather remove some paneling and do the repairs the correct way, Aad
Re: Intro and a question Reply #14 – March 15, 2015, 11:59:44 am Yahoo Message Number: 151573Hi Joan,Do I go to the "Wood Flour Store" to get this??? It's probably right next to the Scotch Tape Store.Bob
Re: Intro and a question Reply #15 – March 15, 2015, 04:00:09 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151577At the wood flour store maybe you can get pizza dough made with it. Guaranteed crispy crust!bobmoore14
Re: Intro and a question Reply #16 – March 16, 2015, 01:20:40 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151583Thanks for the pizza suggestion Bob. I hear that Pizza made with wood flour is really smoky tasting too. Crispy and smoky, yummmm.I found a chef who specializes in wood flour, but he won't get out of prison for another 15 years.Don't forget to bring your wood flour dishes to the pot luck at Lake Perris this week. It's vegan and gluten free. I'm going to eat extra portions,I wonder what would happen if I smoked wood flour???SD Bob
Re: Intro and a question Reply #17 – March 16, 2015, 01:26:54 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151584I wonder what would happen if I smoked wood flour???---- It appears that you already have! ;-)Joan
Re: Intro and a question Reply #18 – March 16, 2015, 02:28:04 pm Yahoo Message Number: 151587Far out.SD Bob
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