Lazy Daze Owners' Group

Resealing roof on 1994 Lazy Daze

September 03, 2014, 01:59:08 am

Yahoo Message Number: 148419

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I have spent hours reading and re-reading past posts regarding resealing roofs.  I still am unsure if I have to remove all of the sealant covering the seams and screws along the outside edges, and surrounding vents.  If I do not, how will I marry the Eternabond to the existing sealant?  Does the roof have to be taken down to bare metal in order to have the Eternabond adhere properly?  Or will solvent washing do the trick?  Thanks for the help.

Re: Resealing roof on 1994 Lazy Daze

Reply #2 – September 03, 2014, 11:47:12 am

Yahoo Message Number: 148422

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Eternabond will not stick to the original seam sealant but that isn't a problem as long as the original is 2" or less in width. Eternabond comes in 4" and 6" widths, so there is a 1" or 2" overlap on each edge, where the tape makes contact with the roof.
Make sure that the roof is very clean. Scrub the roof with soap and water and then wipe the contact areas with lacquer thinner or acetone, before applying the tape. The front corners of the roof are the common trouble spots and I usually end up cutting the corners out if any signs of bubbling or rust are present.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157624693172984/show

For the small holes in the roof, a square of Eternabond applied over them is a good way to seal them up.

Search my user name and "Eternabond" for a lot more information on this topic.

Larry

Re: Resealing roof on 1994 Lazy Daze

Reply #4 – September 03, 2014, 12:27:17 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 148425

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"Mostly located in the front 1/3 of the rig." That sounds like electrolysis holes, doesn't it? If so, they could indicate moisture under that whole front area, and potential dry-rot of the wooden framing. Am I way off here, or is this something to worry about in this case?"

Andy

Certainly, with a rig this old, that could be the cause of holes and should be checked out.
I have run across small holes in many older LDs with the causes unknown.
The aluminum skin can be punctured by stepping on a small, sharp rock, especially in the older models with the thinner roof sheet metal.
The owner can pull the ceiling light fixtures and/or fan covers to take a look at the roof framing in the area of the holes for evidence of damage or rot.

Larry

Re: Resealing roof on 1994 Lazy Daze

Reply #6 – September 03, 2014, 05:13:52 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 148432

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My rig has a 2-3" wide 1/4-1/2" thick clear sealant applied over the edge seams and surrounding vents, etc.  Was this applied at the factory or by the previous owner?  There are a few screw holes that have bubbled up, but over all its in good condition.  No leaking under that sealant.  My problem is as before mentioned, possible electrolysis, or?  Would the electrolysis be occurring just where a nail or screw comes into contact with the aluminum, or could it occur all over the roof, with no apparent pattern?  I have removed fixtures and vent covers, but not actual ceiling panels. Upon close inspection, it appears that I have a saturated ceiling. No evidence of dry rot.  I discovered the problem upon return from an extended RV  vacation.  The bathroom ceiling light fixture was full of water after a particularly bad storm producing 4" of rain.
Now, possible solutions?  It seems to me that I could use an elastomer paint on product.  I have searched for the DUCOR product mentioned in a previous post, but am only finding DICOR products.  The DICOR product is getting mixed reviews online.  I would like to temporarily patch with Eternabond tape, but how hard will that product be to remove? For now, only the front 1/3 of the roof is affected, but I'd like to prevent future problems if I could.  I really appreciate the help. Thanks, again.  Mary

Re: Resealing roof on 1994 Lazy Daze

Reply #8 – September 03, 2014, 07:31:38 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 148436

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Just off of the phone with Lazy Daze.  They feel that the there most likely is a primary leak somewhere that allowed water in, and that electrolysis has caused the pinholes, etc.  Their recommendation is to replace the roof.  However that is cost prohibitive.  Upwards of $10,000. They have no opinion or experience with recoating the roof.  They did however suggest using only polyurethane caulking material to fill the pinholes.  Not Eternabond.  Thanks for the help.

Re: Resealing roof on 1994 Lazy Daze

Reply #10 – September 03, 2014, 10:35:13 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 148440

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Mayr, I'm very sorry to hear about your roof situation and the high cost of replacement!

While the factory has an irrational (in the consensus opinion of this group) prejudice against Eternabond, in your case it would not be sole solution to the electrolysis-holes problem, since it's intended for sealing seams, not large areas.

The factory's suggestion that "there most likely is a primary leak somewhere that allowed water in" may be true, but at this point you have a multitude of leaks, so finding the original leak is probably not possible. You're just going to have to fix all the leaks you can find.

Others can check me on this, but I think what I'd do in your situation is this:

0. Thoroughly clean the roof.

2. Reseal all seams with 6" Eternabond tape.

3. Plug all visible holes with polyurethane, as recommended by the factory.

4. Coat the roof with a brush-on sealant. This last step is one I would never normally recommend, but it may be necessary to get every pinhole. If anybody has a better idea, speak out! :-)

In addition, you need to dry out your ceilings. Best thing I can think of is to drop all the ceiling lights, as Larry suggested, and blow air preferably warmed) in there for an extended period. A vacation trip to southern New Mexico or Arizona would hurt. :-)

I hope others here will come up with additional and/or better ideas for remediation.

Andy Baird

Travels with Andy

Re: Resealing roof on 1994 Lazy Daze

Reply #12 – September 03, 2014, 11:14:25 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 148442

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Do you think that I'll have to remove existing caulking over the roof seams, or can I lay the 6" tape right over it?  It sticks up 1/4-1/2" in places, about 1 1/2-2" wide.  Not the original factory job, but done by previous owners.  I will attempt to remove the sealant from around vent housings, etc, and reseal those areas before brushing on new coating.  Thanks, Mary

Re: Resealing roof on 1994 Lazy Daze

Reply #14 – September 04, 2014, 01:27:33 am

Yahoo Message Number: 148444

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Sorry, I meant to write "A vacation trip to southern New Mexico or Arizona wouldn't hurt." And sorry for mistyping your name, Mary!

Andy Baird

Travels with Andy

Re: Resealing roof on 1994 Lazy Daze

Reply #16 – September 04, 2014, 12:35:55 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 148449

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" If it were me, I think I would get a piece of aluminum large enough to cover the area, and use some type of slow drying cement to just glue it down over the old roof.  Then use Eternabond around the edges."

If Dick's observation that the aluminum roof may have wide spread damage is correct, his suggestion is a good one for a more permanent repair. Any severally weakened areas need to be covered.
I would get on the roof and explore the area with an ice pick, determining how wide the damage before proceeding.

Also as important as making the repair is drying out the framing I would pull all the accessible ceiling fixtures to allow ventilation as well as running two electric heaters inside the rig for as many days as needed to return the ceiling insulation to a bone-dry condition.
Everyday it remains wet, the funguses are partying big time.
You might even need to cut additional ceiling vent holes. This can be done with a small hole-saw, cutting holes inside the surrounding cabinets, where the repaired holes will not be visible. The holes can be covered with white vinyl tape when the drying is complete.
I would not wait to do this, instead get to it now and minimize future damage.

Larry

Re: Resealing roof on 1994 Lazy Daze

Reply #18 – September 04, 2014, 01:29:24 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 148453

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Hi Just my $.02 worth, and that may be exactly what it is worth, but how about  this plan. Determine the size of the area of damage with an ice pick as  mentioned by Larry, and then cut that section of roof out. That should be quite  an easy task. Then the wood and insulation will dry out quite quickly and  thoroughly. Then have a sheet metal outfit cut a piece of aluminum to cover the  hole, allowing a few inches of overlap on all sides. Fasten the sheet to the  existing roof with pop-rivets and seal with 3M 5200 and paint. Or seal with  eternabond  if you wish. I would use the 5200.
Tom

Of course I  haven't seen the roof, but if there are a lot of pin holes, say a hundred or  more, I would have to question the integrity of the aluminum roof in that  area.  If it were me, I think I would get a piece of aluminum large enough  to cover the area, and use some type of slow drying cement to just glue it down  over the old roof.  Then use Eternabond around the edges.  I think you  could make it look pretty nice with a little effort.  It sure wouldn't cost  $10,000.

Dick

Re: Resealing roof on 1994 Lazy Daze

Reply #20 – September 04, 2014, 01:43:40 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 148456

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I'd be tempted to research covering the roof with that Rhino-liner spray on bedliner stuff.  That should seal it up real good for a number of years.

I know a lot of us use and enjoy vintage Lazy Daze (mine is 23 years old this month) but what should be considered the useful life?

At some point they need to be put to pasture.  I know if faced with a $10,000 repair I would send mine to the dismantlers, as much as I do love it.

Re: Resealing roof on 1994 Lazy Daze

Reply #22 – September 04, 2014, 04:47:04 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 148458

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I may have located the primary leak.  A roof vent and antenna mount looked very suspicious.  I removed the caulking, vent and antenna mount.  Now to replace them.  Do I use a marine bedding compound, polyurethane caulk, or?  I will also re-cover them with copious amounts of factory recommended polyurethane.  I have removed as many fixtures in the interior as I can and have heaters inside the coach.  The electrolysis damage appears to be fairly minor at this time.  Not as widespread as I had feared.  However, I assume that the electrolysis continues as long as there is moisture present.  So, I may not know how bad the problem is until some time has passed.  My thoughts right now are to take my chances on some form of paint on coating.
Open to recommendations.  I really appreciate all of your help and opinions. Thanks, Mary

Re: Resealing roof on 1994 Lazy Daze

Reply #24 – September 04, 2014, 05:36:23 pm

Yahoo Message Number: 148460

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Hi I have used Dicor elastomeric RV roof coating for years. My rig is a 1999  and although the roof has never been sealed, the seams are as good as new. I  coat them every year with the Dicor. Takes about 15 minutes and a quart can  lasts for years. I have not used it to cover pinholes, but IMO, it believe it  would do the job. To the OP: Use several coats, and the inspect it weekly for  awhile, then monthly for awhile, and apply another coat whenever you think it  needs it. And keep a watchful eye out for water intrusion.
 BTW, corrosion *WILL* continue until things are completely dry up there. I  have doubts about removing fixtures from the ceiling and expecting a little heat  and fans to dry thing up. IMO it would take weeks, if not months, of that  treatment to be effective.
Tom

A paint-on roof coating (as long as the product is appropriate for metal  roofs) is certainly an option, and might be easier overall than covering the  pinholed area with overlapping strips of 6" wide Eternabond. I've re-sealed with  E-bond, but haven't worked with any paint-on roof coating, so I can't offer a  fair comparison.

Joan