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Topic: Changed lights in LD over to LED (Read 34 times) previous topic - next topic
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Changed lights in LD over to LED
Yahoo Message Number: 146837
I finished the LED lighting in the LD. Re-did 5 florescence lights and 5 lights that use 1141 incandescent bulb. 2 backup lights, porch light, replaced stove hood light. 14 running lights, and 2 night lights. The cost was $100; no soldering needed.
You will find LED lights listed as 1210, 3528, 5050, and 5630. This is to be the size of the LED in mm.

3528 is 35mm x 28mm, 5050 is 50mm x 50mm and 5630 is 56mm x 30mm. But this in not always true.

The 5050 LED is 3 times brighter than 3528 or 1210 and 5630 is 1 ½ times brighter than 5050. The larger the LED the more light. Stay with the 5050 for most bulbs and get the 5630 in the strip lights for use in florescence's. DO NOT USE THE 1210 OR THE 3528.

For the light in the shower, over toilet and over the bed use the DOME style of light (SEE PIC) not the round barrel light that have the socket on one end, some LED on the other end and several rolls of light around the side that may be 1 to 7 LED's long. The problem with the barrel light is that only a small amount of the light shines down. The rest of the light is to the left, right, and up, into the old reflector. You want all the LED to shine DOWN into the room. The exception is where you have a shade that is more like a cone (funnel) with the bulb in the center and it is to shine in a 360* arc.

The DOME style is a fiber board that have LED all on a flat area facing out. There is a 3M backer that you peal and stick the board on the lights reflector. This way all the LED shine DOWN. I got those that were 6 led x 8 led for a total of 48 led for the most light at the vanity (mirror over lav) , porch light and backup lights. (Doing the backup lights will not save you any watts since the engine is running but you will I love the extra light). I got the 4 led x 6 led for a total of 24 led for over the bed, shower and toilet. I also got the 48 led for the backup lights. It lights the house up across the street when I back out of the drive way.

My night lights and the hood light have a flat wedge base. For the night lights I got the same base but there was only 1-5050 LED on the end of the bulb. (SEE PIC)

There are 2 white colors that you can use. Warm White 3500K and Cool white 6000K. The WW is more white the CW has a blue tint. I preferred the WW. Both put out the same Lumens.

For the florescent light I got 2 rolls of SupperNight 5630 warm white strip lights on a roll that are WATER PROOF. You do not need water proof but what is left over you can use out side or under the stove hood where you can clean the strip from any grease build up. They only cost $2.00 more per roll. Get the 5630 not the 5050. They put off 50% more light per LED. There are 300 led's on the roll which is 15 ft 4 inch long. If you do the job right there is no soldering. The strip is marked to be cut every 2 inch or 3 led's. Cut the strip 16 inchs long for the florescence lights. Being 73 years old I want more light so for the lights over the barrel chairs, sofa (for reading) and kitchen sink I installed 4 strips and the 2 lights in the center of the room I did not want as much light so used 3 strips each. 3 strips is equal to 2 tubes. To join the strips they make a 6 inch jumper with a connecter on each end. Use these to join the strips (This gets rid of the need to solider; cost about 7.00 per pack of 10. I got two packs. If you buy the connector x connector you can cut the end off one end and use it as a starter for the strip to switch in the florescent light. When you buy the connectors you need to get the ones that match the strips. (5630 is the same as 5050 strips, one color, water proof). Use a glue gun to help hold the connectors and the start of the strip to the light frame. The strips have 3M tape to hold them in place. The connectors come bulk with no directions. Before I bought the connectors I read many posting not to buy them they do not work. I bought them and was about to agree with the posters. The problem I think we were all inserting the strip in the connectors up side down. Once installing the strips right they worked every time. You need to insert the strip under the contacts not on top of them. You do not have to remove the ballast. Remove the ballast hot wire off the switch and connect the hot feed wire of the strip to the switch. Connect the ground wire to a metal part of the light frame. Then install the number of led strips that you want. To make the job easy assemble the complete lighting strip and test before you install in the light body. Re move the light from the ceiling so that you can work on a table.

The light in the hood was easy and I ended up with a light that gave as much light as the florescent over the sink. Disregard the light in the hood. Cut a strip of led's 18 inch long (27 led). Place a connector on one end. Drill a hole to feed the wires through at the end of the hood. Place the led strip at the very front of the hood on the under side. With the hole at the end of the strip. Feed the wires up through the hole and add more wire if needed to be able to reach the wires to the switch that turns the hood light on. To remove the control panel on the hood push it up and then lift it out at the bottom. Remove the wire from the old light and place the wire for the new light on the switch. Replace the control panel. You now have a light that you can see by ; and it only draws 1/2 watt not 1 ½ watt. And puts off as much light as two 1141 bulbs.

The night light is a Flat wedge base.) Get a bulb with just one 5050 led on the end. They were 10 for $4.00. It supplies a little more light that the light there now. The light in use now draws .5 + watts the new light will draw .02 watts Give the rest of the light to a friend who owns a LD.

Replaced all 14 bulbs in the running lights with one LED on the end and 4 on the sides. (5050-5 led total). (SEE PIC).The engine is normally running so this will not reduce the watt load but you will be seen much better. Cost was 20 for $12.00.

The 1141 bulbs used in the lights have a NEW Lumens of 265 but after 8 hours of use it will drop to less than 125. And still draws 1.44 Watts  The 24 led 5050 Dome has 360 Lumens and draws .36 watt. These were used in the Shower, over toilet, over bed. Cost $6.00 each Three times the light and ¼ the watts.

The 48 LED 5050 Dome has 720 Lumens and draws .45 watt. Used in porch light, over vanity and backup lights. Cost $5.50 each. Six times the light and 1/3 the watts.

The Flat wedge used in the night light is 1-5050 LED. 1 LED on the end; has 15 Lumens draws .02 watt.

Old Porch + night light (step light) drew 2.75 watt. The new draws .45 watts and is 8 times brighter.

Florescence lights with 2 tubes drew 2.2 watts. Now draw .85 watt with 3 rows LED and .90 watt with 4 rows LED.

2 rolls of 5630 SuperNight LED 5 meter long (15 foot 4 inch) cost $32.00 Connectors .75 each The watt draw for the LED lights was gotten by removing the fuse and only turning the light then I wanted to measure and reading at the fuse with a watt meter.

Pic of lights with description: https://www.flickr.com/photos/27491195@N03/14372235661/in/set-72157644663218337/ The pic have a description in the upper right corner.

Got every thing from E-Bay. All with free shipping Yorktec Five-Baystars Greatdealup4grabs Cenn2010 BMLED

Every thing that I bought/receiver worked. Some things were bought here in the states and some had to be bought from China. (OVER SEAS) The items bought in states came in 2 to 4 days???. The stuff from China took 14 to 16 days.

Keep in mind that LED lights have to have the RED wire connected to the Positive in the MH. They ar + - sensitive. If the light will not work reverse the red and white wire on the LED to the wires in the MH. Then it will work. If they are connected backwards it will not do any damage but they will not light/work.

George

Retired Plumber
Re: Changed lights in LD over to LED
Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 146842
That's very helpful information, George--thanks for posting it!

One question: in a number of places where you mentioned watts, it seems as if you meant amps. For example, "Fluorescent lights with 2 tubes drew 2.2 watts." A twin-tube RV fluorescent draws about 25-30 watts (15 watts per tube--in fact, they are so marked). Divide by 12 volts, and you get 2.5 amps. So I'm guessing that what you measured was 2.2 amps, not 2.2 watts... and similarly elsewhere. Yes?

Thanks again for providing all the details and part numbers. Although my rig is already converted to LEDs, I'm sure I'll find use for this information when helping friends with their rigs. Good job!

Andy Baird

Travels with Andy
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: Changed lights in LD over to LED
Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 146845
That's very helpful information, George--thanks for posting it!

One  question: in a number of places where you mentioned watts, it seems as  if you meant amps. For example, "Fluorescent lights with 2 tubes drew  2.2 watts." A twin-tube RV fluorescent draws about 25-30 watts (15 watts  per tube--in fact, they are so marked). Divide by 12 volts, and you get  2.5 amps. So I'm guessing that what you measured was 2.2 amps, not 2.2  watts... and similarly elsewhere. Yes?

Thanks  again for providing all the details and part numbers. Although my rig  is already converted to LEDs, I'm sure I'll find use for this  information when helping friends with their rigs. Good job!


 Andy Baird is right about the WATTS AND AMPS in my posting about changing from fluorescent and incardesent lighting; I keep saying WATTS and not AMPS. I was not thinking when I typed it.

My reading are AMPS

George Retired plumber
Re: Changed lights in LD over to LED
Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 146952
"The problem with the barrel light is that only a small amount of the light shines down. The rest of the light is to the left, right, and up, into the old reflector. You want all the LED to shine DOWN into the room."
 Completely disagree! The turret-style LED replacement bulbs duplicate the light pattern of the incandescents they replace - which the reflector is designed to use to give a wide angle of illumination. The flat boards give an uneven distribution of light, typically bright over a 60 degree angle, and less so up to about 120 degrees, where the light falls off. You also get fringing effects under some situations. If you want a limited but bright cone of illumination, the flat boards may suit your needs, but even above the bunk, the turret bulbs will illuminate well to the foot of the bed.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Michelin tires - warranty
Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 146954
If anyone is still waiting for the replacement of the Michelin tires that were recalled . . . we got ours a couple of days ago.  We stopped in at the shop that had called us about replacing them, and quite coincidentally, they were just getting in their supply of replacement tires.

The original recall was in December of 2013, so it has been quite a wait.  So if you are still waiting, you might want to try contacting your dealer to inquire.

Virtual hugs,

Judie http://dorrieanne.wordpress.com
Re: Changed lights in LD over to LED
Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 146955
"The problem with  the barrel light is that only a small amount of the light shines down. The rest  of the light is to the left, right, and up, into the old reflector. You want all  the LED to shine DOWN into the room."
 Completely disagree! The  turret-style LED replacement bulbs duplicate the light pattern of the  incandescents they replace - which the reflector is designed to use to give a  wide angle of illumination. The flat boards give an uneven distribution of  light, typically bright over a 60 degree angle, and less so up to about 120  degrees, where the light falls off. You also get fringing effects under some  situations. If you want a limited but bright cone of illumination, the flat  boards may suit your needs, but even above the bunk, the turret bulbs will  illuminate well to the foot of the bed.


 Steve your thinking sounds good but in the real world it did not happen. I tried the turret style and the dome (board) and the light was not there. I ended up using the turret in the shower where I did not need as much light. First the turret style has 2 1/4 less lumems. The Turret bulb is larger that the 1141 and the light that shines up in the reflecter is blocked from coming back by the size of the bulb. The 1141 is clear and the light will shine through the glass but the turret is solid and the light will not shine through the bulb so the reflectore is use less. I also tried both bulbs in the out side light. This was in dry camping sight where there was NO light. Every one agred the board light was far brighter than the turret. It was a no brainer. The board won hands down.
I tried all 3 bulbs in the bed area (turret, 24 dome, 48 dome). All light the bed to the foot. The turret gave the least light even for reading. The 48 dome was to bright. So I used the 24 dome.
Re: Changed lights in LD over to LED
Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 146981
Could be the turret bulbs you used had too many smaller emitters. The ones I used throughout use 18 of the 5050 emitters, are quite bright, and fit the incandescent fixtures fine - all the light is either emitted or reflected in a nearly spherical pattern. LD installs the coplanar LED array style in the newer rigs, and the problems I mentioned are evident. I find it an unsatisfactory solution for the locations these fixtures are used. I suggest anyone interested in converting experiment on their own prior to committing.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Re: Changed lights in LD over to LED
Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 146982
Could be the turret bulbs you used had too many smaller emitters. The  ones I used throughout use 18 of the 5050 emitters, are quite bright,  and fit the incandescent fixtures fine - all the light is either emitted  or reflected in a nearly spherical pattern. LD installs the coplanar  LED array style in the newer rigs, and the problems I mentioned are  evident. I find it an unsatisfactory solution for the locations these  fixtures are used. I suggest anyone interested in converting experiment  on their own prior to committing.


 I tried both the 3528 and the 5050 and the dome light bulb gave off far more light. This is why I went with the 24-5050 over the bed. The 48-5050 over the lave for shaving or womems make up was best but over the bed it was to bright. Where this really showed up was when I tried all 3 in the backup light. The 48-5050 dome lights the neibors house up when I backed out the drive and the tubular did little.

George Retired plumber
Re: Changed lights in LD over to LED
Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 146983
I think it is too easy to confuse total light output (lumens) with distributed intensity at the areas where you want the light. Coplanar arrays of LEDs simply reinforce the non-linear intensity curve of the individual emitters, producing a localized very bright light, but much dimmer off-axis. For fluorescent tube replacement, this is helped a bit when co-linear arrays are used and can be angled to complement the uneven intensity, so a similar arrangement can be used in custom-designed fixtures, such as a few I've built for special applications, and spherical uniformity is certainly not ALWAYS the goal.
 Another misconception, though, is that LEDs are always more efficient, which while true for incandescent replacements, it ignores significant differences in LED array design. Most linear and coplanar arrays use simple resistive load-matching, which is lossy, compared to PWM modules, and are really NOT more efficient than fluorescents. The only reasonable way to improve these fixtures' efficiency is to accept fewer lumens from the LEDs, but brighter intensity due to a narrower angle of illumination. This is useful, e.g., for the under-cabinet fixtures. For the icandescent fixtures, since the original bulbs were in most cases bright enough, adding higher-lumen LED fixtures may still save A-hrs, but avoiding overkill will save even more.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit