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Topic: Toilet Ball seal (Read 16 times) previous topic - next topic
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Toilet Ball seal
Yahoo Message Number: 146213
Bessie ('99 RB) survived her 2nd Minnesota winter stored indoors (50 days below zero). The toilet does not hold water in the bowl despite efforts to leave some of the "pink stuff" in the bowl upon winterization. Will the rubber seal "come back" now in use or do we have to look at other options? Seems like a "nightmare" project - I'm leaning toward living with it for now and hoping the rubber seal comes back after some use.
 Also bringing her in to have the hot water heater (which won't light) diagnosed. I've tried to study the info contained on this site and even went so far as to order replacement thermal cutoff part via the info on Eureka Live but have decided I don't want to tackle this myself. CW is quoting $55 to diagnose the problem with same day repair if they have parts in stock.

Todd - Minnesota
Todd (and Steve)
'17 Winnebago Minnie Winnie and '13 Honda CRV
(Former '99 RB owners from 2012-2016)

Re: Toilet Ball seal
Reply #1
Yahoo Message Number: 146215
Todd:

Try the white vinegar cure...could be there's mineral build up...clean the bowl and empty.  Add about 2 quarts of white vinegar and about 1 quart water.  Let sit.

Since the ball appears to be leaking the fluid out of the bowl, you may have to babysit this.  However, if this is the problem, about 2 more doses of the above will make it right.  May take more than, may take less than.

I find I have to do this once or twice a year depending upon how hard the water is where ever we are.

Try this before any expensive and invasive procedures are contemplated.

TinaP 2006 MB
2006 MB

Re: Toilet Ball seal
Reply #2
Yahoo Message Number: 146216
I agree with Tina that it makes sense to try the vinegar treatment before you spend money on this.

I use a procedure similar to hers, with a few twists. First I shut off the water pump and hold the toilet's flush (ball) valve open until all the water drains out. Then, with the flush valve closed again, I add about a cup of undiluted white vinegar. (The water pump can be turned back on at this point, so you can use the sinks and shower.)

After letting the vinegar sit for a couple of hours (replenishing as necessary to keep the valve covered with vinegar), I pour in a few tablespoons of baking soda, and scrub the bowl with a toilet brush. The baking soda serves two purposes: first, it's a mild abrasive that helps remove any remaining mineral deposits that the vinegar has loosened; and second, it neutralizes the vinegar's acidity, so that I don't kill off the beneficial bacteria in my tank.

I then flush the toilet and repeat the baking soda treatment, until the contents of the bowl no longer foam, at which point I know the acidity has been fully neutralized.

Give this simple procedure a try before you call in expensive professional help. There's a good chance it will solve your valve-leakage problem.

Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

Re: Toilet Ball seal
Reply #3
Yahoo Message Number: 146224
Todd, I endorse the input from Tina and Andy, but I add this - replacing the seals is not a nightmare job.  Once you know how, the actual work takes perhaps 15 or 20 minutes.  Actual time may take several hours, most of which is spent dissolving encrustation on the toilet base and on the flush dome.  That takes soaking time.  I posted a detailed step-by-step on this some time back that might be helpful.
 The first time I did mine I was nervous about it, but now it is no big deal.  The biggest thing is getting the right seals for your setup.

Good luck.

Ken F in OR
'08 MB