Toilet Sealand 511 Plus

March 05, 2014, 09:58:14 pm

My toilet is leaking, and I've done all of the non-invasive remedies that I've found in prior messages. (vinegar, cleaning the ball and seal, tightening the band, use pledge). Since none of them worked it looks like the next step is replacing the seal.
A couple of questions. If I replace the seal, should I also do the ball and other pieces? If so which ones? And I'm currently in the Corpus Christi area head over to Florida in the next couple of months. Any RV parts stores that anyone knows of that would likely have the parts in stock? Online recommendations work also.

Thanks Jim Sadler

Re: Toilet Sealand 511 Plus

Reply #1 – March 06, 2014, 01:02:02 am

Yahoo Message Number: 145235

I see an AER Marine Supply in Ingleside, across the bay. Sealand toilets are popular in boats.

(281) 474-3276, (800) 767-7606

Steve

Re: Toilet Sealand 511 Plus

Reply #2 – March 06, 2014, 08:24:41 am

Yahoo Message Number: 145237

Most likely, you will not need to replace parts other than the seals. You are likely to find some very hard encrustation on the bottom of the toilet and perhaps on the ball. That encrustation needs to be removed to get a smooth surface before re-assembly. I have found an easy way to do this.
Get an aluminum discardable roasting pan, big enough that the toilet base will fit in it. Put some paper towels down in your shower to protect the floor from scratches, then put the pan on the paper towels. Remove the toilet seat back, then remove the toilet and put it in the pan. Add some white vinegar to the pan and let it sit for a while to soften those deposits.
Next, remove and discard the old seals. Examine the ball top. You are likely to see encrustation there as well. Take the vinegar and dribble it onto the ball. Be prepared to see some smoke or steam produced as the vinegar interacts with he encrustation. Keep the flow going very slowly until that smoking stops. The intent here is to cool the ball with the vinegar, washing away any excess heat so the plastic ball is not damaged by it. Remove any soft or loose encrustation, being very careful to avoid scratching the plastic ball surface. Fold a paper towel so it fits over the ball and wet it with vinegar, keeping it wet to soak and soften any remaining deposits. Periodically, replace the paper towel, so you maintain a concentration of vinegar on the encrustations. Continue until the ball surface is smooth and free of deposits. This part is what takes time. Plan on an hour or two for this.
Remove the toilet from the pan in which it has been soaking, turn it over and make sure the base is clean and free of encrustation. A flat-bladed screwdriver can be used to scrape more stubborn deposits, as it is unlikely to scratch the porcelain.
When the toilet base is completely clean and smooth it is time to re-assemble. This is routine, with a few recommendations. First, with the seals in place, position the toilet over the seals. Look down from directly above the opening. When the position is perfect, there will be a uniform black ring showing around the hole. The toilet is held onto the base by a plastic split ring locked by a ring clamp. The last time I replaced the seals, I sprayed the inside surface of this ring with a dry silicone lubricant. That improved the seating effect of the ring during assembly, allowing it to better pull the toilet against the base. Snug up the ring clamp until the toilet is held in place but not yet locked down hard, making sure the clamp mechanism is at the back of the assembly, where the trim cover has a bulge to accommodate the mechanism. Replace the seat and back, tighten them, and put the seat back down. Sit on the back and wiggle, using your body weight to further position and compress the seals. Do the final tightening of the ring clamp, replace the trim cover, and replace the flush tube into the back of the toilet. Turn the water on and check for leaks.

Good luck with this delightful project!

Ken F in NM