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Topic: Tow Bar Lubricating Tip (Read 2 times) previous topic - next topic
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Re: Tow Bar Lubricating Tip
Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 144982
What he recommended is good, but he didn't provide any information on how to lube the tow bar.
 I am not familiar with the construction of the Blue Ox bar, however, it has always been my understanding that the "bellows" just covered the tow bar arms when they were extended.   I didn't think that there was any grease inside them, except for what lube may be on the arms.   I suspect that the Blue Ox owner's manual would tell you how to lube the bar.
 I've always had a Roadmaster Sterling tow bar; two of them.  They do not have a bellows that covers the arms.  Roadmaster provides very specific instructions on how to maintain the tow bar.  On my first Sterling bar (2003) the recommendation was to clean the arms with WD-40.  Extend the arms, spray them, and run the arms in and out a number of times to clean the seals.  Then let the arms "hang down" to drain the WD-40.  Wipe off any remaining WD-40.  You don't want it on the arms as it is a good collector of dirt.  When the arms are dry, spray them with silicon lube and again run them in and out to lube the seals.
 My second Sterling bar (2009) had similar instructions except they recommended a specific cleaner that for doing the cleaning and a "drying" type of silicon spray for lubrication.
 Roadmaster tech support also recommends that after 70K miles a tow bar be returned to them for factory overhaul.  They replace all the worn parts, seals and the bearings in the "arm universal joint."  I didn't know this and used my first bar for 90K miles.  I then bent it and bought a replacement.

Doug Baker
Re: Tow Bar Lubricating Tip
Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 144987
While the video show how to maintain a tow bar with rubber boots, do not use grease on models without boots, which includes the majority of tow bars. On our Roadmsaster tow bar, I regularly extend the arms and wipe them with a clean cloth. When washing the toad, the tow bar's slides get washed too. Stay away from WD-40 as a cleaning agent,  its light oil will attract dirt.
After the tow bar is dry, the slides and hinge bolts are sprayed with a dry silicone spray.
http://www.amazon.com/C-R-Laurence-3MSiliconeSprayDryTypeLubricant/dp/B000MQX7K2
 The most common problem I see with towing equipment is in the electrical plugs and umbilical cords.
It's a good idea to disassemble the plugs and sockets every few years and tighten all the set screws, The screws almost always are loose. I removed them, one by one, re-twisting the ends and making sure the wire is intact. Flexing can break individual stands. If you see this, rewire the plug, shortening each wire by about a 1/2". After stripping and twisting the wire ends, coat them in dielectric grease and reinstall in the plug.
The other common wiring problem is bad grounds. Whenever the toad's taillights or brake unit is experiencing strange electrical gremlins, suspect a bad ground. Running a jumper from the frame of the RV to the toad's frame is one way I start troubling shooting this.
Lastly,  keep the plugs contacts clean and lubed with dielectric grease. Protect the plug ends when not in use.

Larry
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Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze