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Topic: 1996 FORD motor problems (Read 3 times) previous topic - next topic
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1996 FORD motor problems
Yahoo Message Number: 137570
I'm an aspiring Lazy Daze owner. Right now I have a  1996 Class B with 351 motor. I got it in late 2008 at 35000 miles, and I put an average of 8000 miles a year on it, driving from Montana to Arizona for the winter. At first it got 14-16 mpg, depending on speed.  last year it slipped a bit, down to 12- 13. I attributed the mpg loss to more stuff in the van and me getting comfortable driving it faster-  say 68 instead of 64.   Ok so the van has about 62000  miles and I noticed that the mpg has slipped again and I am getting 11-12.
And I noticed it idling rough, almost surging. On my last trip from Montana south i also noticed a loss of power, like it is not getting enough air or gas.
So I took it in for a tuneup. New filters, spark plugs, etc. and it did not improve at all.  The guy took it back, checked everything, replaced spark plug wires and .....   No improvement. Still idles with a miss and still labors on grades and hills more than it should.
Any suggestions? Thanks!

Maren, 1996 Bigfoot Class B  on Ford E350 with 351 motor

Re: 1996 FORD motor problems
Reply #1
Yahoo Message Number: 137572
Maren,
 Because they probably hooked up an OBD to check out everything, that sort of rules out a bad sensor or other electrical issue. So I'm inclined to think its a fuel injector problem or maybe a vacuum leak some where.

Good luck,

Victor

Sent from Droid X

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

FORD motor problems
Reply #2
Yahoo Message Number: 137575
If an engine doesn't start, it's almost always related to either the electrical or fuel system. If it starts, but runs poorly, it still is almost always related to either the electrical or fuel system.
 However, if it's been tuned up ie addressing both electrical (plugs, wires, timing, etc) and/or fuel (filters, EFI, etc), then it's time to look @ secondary sources.
 It's been said many times before, but an engine is nothing more than a glorified air pump. That means checking both air flow into the engine via the air intake, and exhaust flow via the manifold, muffler, catalytic & pipe(s).
 Unless there is some fundamental mechanical issue with the engine, if it has air, fuel & a proper spark, and has some means of expelling spent gasses, then there isn't really any reason why it shouldn't run (well).

Re: 1996 FORD motor problems
Reply #3
Yahoo Message Number: 137582
First thing I'd do is run a can of "sea foam" thru with a tank of gas. Plugged or leaky injectors can cause problems as well as carbon build up. Sea foam or other good products can help. There are also services available that clean you engine at a shop for 100 or so.

Always a guess but a lazy  O2 sensor Can sometimes be a cause of decreased mileage. And a faulty speedometer/odometer can make you think mileage has changed. Can be checked with a GPS,

Sent from Garry's iPhone

Re: 1996 FORD motor problems
Reply #4
Yahoo Message Number: 137586
I had the same issue at 62000, with my 91 460, the catalytic converter was plugged! This is a common issue. Search the web for it! Luckily your not in California so you can get a Magnaflow oem equivalent high flow cat conv at a reasonable cost. I swear it will be night and day after the new cat, I also went with a generic high flow truck muffler for $60, a slight change in sound only noticeable to me with my window open. I bought the cat conv online and went to an independent shop for muffler and they installed both. The replacements I used are California compliant so they were $$$, i needed to stay smog legal.

Sent by wireless

Re: 1996 FORD motor problems
Reply #5
Yahoo Message Number: 137589
"So I took it in for a tuneup. New filters, spark plugs, etc. and it did not improve at all. The guy took it back, checked everything, replaced spark plug wires and ..... No improvement. Still idles with a miss and still labors on grades and hills more than it should.
Any suggestions?"

Maren
 Find a better mechanic who has the proper tools and test equipment to find the problem. Throwing parts at it until it runs right isn't a proper troubleshooting method, can cost a fortune and may never solve the problem.
We all have guesses as to what is wrong but that is all they are...guesses.
To start, I would have a mechanic scope the ignition and check the fuel pump pressure under load. There are test for checking to see if the catalytic converter is plugged.

Larry
2001 MB
* Not to be confused with Larry W (3000 of my posts are actually from expert Larry W due to Yahoo transition mis-step)