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Topic: Carbon Monoxide Alarms and LP Gas Detectors (Read 17 times) previous topic - next topic
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Carbon Monoxide Alarms and LP Gas Detectors
Yahoo Message Number: 135670
We are thinking of replacing our 6 year old Carbon Monoxide Alarm and LP Gas Detector.
Any suggestions on quality product names for both?   It looks like Atwood has a good Carbon Monoxide Alarm, a little more in cost over the Costar, but quality may be the way to go.   Any help would be appreciated.   I saw little if anything in the files/links/database section.    Beth
Re: Carbon Monoxide Alarms and LP Gas Detectors
Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 135671
This is similar to the one I have, Safe T Alert.  It is a drop in, no cutting and just snip the wires on the old one and splice
Re: Carbon Monoxide Alarms and LP Gas Detectors
Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 135672
Quote
This is similar to the one I have, Safe T Alert.  It is a drop in, no cutting and just snip the wires on the old one and splice in the new one. I couldn't find the exact model I have on search but mine detects CO also.  Bought at local RV supply for around $90.  Works great.  Woke me up twice, once with oven pilot gone out and once, stove burner turned to "low" instead of "off" and flame went out.
http://www.safe-t-alert.com/re1.htm 
 We are thinking of replacing our 6 year old Carbon Monoxide Alarm and LP Gas Detector.
Any suggestions on quality product names for both?  It looks like Atwood has a good Carbon Monoxide Alarm, a little more in cost over the Costar, but quality may be the way to go.  Any help would be appreciated.  I saw little if anything in the files/links/database section.    Beth
Re: Carbon Monoxide Alarms and LP Gas Detectors
Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 135675
"I couldn't find the exact model I have on search but mine detects CO also."
 I just posted a note to the Techsnoz group about this, so my apologies to those who read both, but this is important enough to be worth repeating:
 DO NOT buy a combination carbon monoxide/propane detector! Carbon monoxide rises, so a CO detector must be mounted on or near the ceiling to be effective as an early warning system. Propane sinks, so a propane detector must be mounted as near the floor as possible to detect the first traces of the gas. A combination CO/propane detector can only do one of these jobs, depending on where you mount it--it can't do both effectively. Buy separate detectors!
 Here's a good, moderately priced CO detector that works well in RVs:
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6V5CI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004Y6V5CI&linkCode=as2&tag=andbai-20

It has a feature I like: a digital display of CO parts per million. If you're concerned or just curious, this enables you to see when CO levels begin to rise, long before the detector starts signaling danger.
 htp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6V5CI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004Y6V5CI&linkCode=as2&tag=andbai-20
 As for propane detectors, I recently replaced my old one with a Safe-T-Alert #30-442-BR that's an almost exact replacement for the one that came with my 2003 Lazy Daze:
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003D32OK0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003D32OK0&linkCode=as2&tag=andbai-20

Screw hole spacing was just slightly different, but not enough to cause a problem.

Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: Carbon Monoxide Alarms and LP Gas Detectors
Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 135676
Hi Andy,
 Carbon monoxide and Nitrogen have the same density, so I don't think CO is going to rise. The CO detectors used in homes are almost always near the floor, like the ones in my home that plug into standard 115 VAC sockets. The instructions specifically state it can be mounted near the floor, so I'd expect that near-the-floor mounting would also be suitable in an RV. Here's the one I use in my home:
 http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-CO615-Monoxide-Plug-In/dp/B000Q5VMKG/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_z/177-8041369-6157902

Having said that, I'd still suggest separate units, so you can mount the CO monitor at a convenient level to check the digital display ocasionally when running the generator. It's easy for the wind to push the exhaust into the living space without realizing it.

Eric Greenwell

Propane is much heavier (1.88 vs 1.1.65) so it will sink.
As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
2005 Jayco 24SS
Re: Carbon Monoxide Alarms and LP Gas Detectors
Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 135681
"Carbon monoxide and Nitrogen have the same density, so I don't think CO is going to rise. The CO detectors used in homes are almost always near the floor, like the ones in my home that plug into standard 115 VAC sockets. The instructions specifically state it can be mounted near the floor, so I'd expect that near-the-floor mounting would also be suitable in an RV."
 I did a bunch of web searching, and found that almost all sources recommended high or ceiling mounting for CO detectors. E.g.,
 "The chemical properties of CO are such that it is slightly lighter than air [specific gravity: 0.966], meaning in a stable environment with little cross-breeze CO will generally collect from the top down in a closed room. For this reason the first thing to consider when you mount a carbon monoxide detector is relative height compared to ground level. The best bet is to mount your carbon monoxide detector on the ceiling just like you would with a typical smoke detector."

And in fact that's exactly where Lazy Daze puts it.

I did find one reference to the contrary:
 "According to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) 720, the location for effective performance is not generally dependent on mounting height. The density of carbon monoxide is similar to that of air at room temperature, and carbon monoxide generally mixes readily with air."
 Sounds pretty authoritative, no? Well, aside from all that waffling with "generally" this and that. ;-) But let's consider: we know that a propane detector MUST be mounted close to floor level. There's no argument about that. But even if you accept the idea that CO "generally" mixes with air (and with a lower specific gravity, that seems dubious), *warm* carbon monoxide from a combustion source is certainly not going to go to the floor, so a combination CO/propane detector mounted at floor level can't be as sensitive to CO as one mounted higher.
 And since it can't be mounted anywhere *but* floor level if it is to function as a propane detector, the conclusion is unavoidable: a combination CO/propane detector is a less-than-optimum CO detector.
 When it comes to safety, I want to maximize my chances. Using a combo detector might save a few bucks--and I'm guessing that's why manufacturers came up with the idea--but it's not the safest way to go, and as far as I'm concerned, that rules it out.

Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: Carbon Monoxide Alarms and LP Gas Detectors
Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 136303
Andy--
 I needed to replace my propane detector for my 2004 RB.  Taking your advice below, I bought the 30-442 from Amazon and am now ready to do the replacement.  Are there any additional details that would be helpful?  For example, you say that the screw hole spacing was a little off, but not a problem.  What does that mean?  What adjustment is necessary to make the screws fit?  Also, what size wire nuts did you use to secure the two connections?  Finally, the replacement unit has one black wire and one red wire.  Will I find identically colored wires on the existing installation so I will know which wire on the new unit to connect to the LD wires?  Thanks--Ted
Re: Carbon Monoxide Alarms and LP Gas Detectors
Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 136309
"you say that the screw hole spacing was a little off, but not a problem. What does that mean? What adjustment is necessary to make the screws fit?"
 As I recall (it's been a couple of years), the new device was about a quarter of an inch wider. I attached one side using an existing screw hole, and made a new hole for the other side. It'll be obvious when you hold the new detector up to the old opening.
 "Also, what size wire nuts did you use to secure the two connections?"
 I'm afraid I couldn't tell you--I used the size that fit. If you don't have an assortment of wire nuts, now would be a good time to get some. :-)
 "the replacement unit has one black wire and one red wire. Will I find identically colored wires on the existing installation so I will know which wire on the new unit to connect to the LD wires?"
 With RV wiring my rule is "always test." You may find red and black, or black and white. No matter what you find, use your multimeter to check which wire is positive and which is negative before you connect anything. It's been known to happen that that color codes are inconsistent from one part of an RV to another, so always check. For more on this, see my Eureka article on how to choose and use a multimeter:
 http://www.andybaird.com/Eureka/pages/multimeter.htm

Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: Carbon Monoxide Alarms and LP Gas Detectors
Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 136356
Thanks for your help.  Installed the replacement propane leak detector this afternoon, without a hitch.  If you hadn't described it as an easy, low-tech task, I probably would have paid (a lot more) to have it installed.  Ted