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Topic: electrolytic action and antenna mounts (Read 5 times) previous topic - next topic
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electrolytic action and antenna mounts
Yahoo Message Number: 128703
I may be just a worry wart, but before I start gluing stuff to the roof for my XM antenna is there a correct process to prevent any damage to the roof?
 I mention this because in the distant past I had a car (Austin Healey 3000) that had both aluminum and steel body sections.  There was paint chipping and rust problems that occurred where the two body sections joined if not done correctly.  These problems were attributed to electronic potential between dissimilar metals.
 I was thinking of gluing or taping a galvanized washer to the roof where I wanted the antenna.  For the drive home I had the antenna mounted on the front fenders (I tried both).  That worked until I turned north and the signal was blocked by the house structure.

John 07 Mid Bath off line address: johndacrema (at) yahoo (dot) com
Currently: 2008 36' Tiffin Open Road
Previously: 2007 Mid Bath
Re: electrolytic action and antenna mounts
Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 128705
Not sure I understand why you want to use a washer under the antenna.  To strengthen the mounting point?

If you are concerned about electrolysis, and you should be, why not just use an aluminum washer?  At the very least I would use stainless steel.  With a galvanized washer you are just asking for rust.

Dick
Re: electrolytic action and antenna mounts
Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 128706
Dick, thanks for the prompt reply.
 The XM Antenna uses a magnet.  I searched the archives and it seems that people use a washer, rails, or other existing items already attached to the roof.  I do not have rails, and not sure the existing items use ferrous metal.
 A number of people seem to have satillate radio.  I'm hoping that the issue has a known solution (that does not require deep pockets) or that the potential is so small that there is no need to worry.
 If I tape/glue the antenna to the roof the exposed part of the magnet (steel) is still
Currently: 2008 36' Tiffin Open Road
Previously: 2007 Mid Bath
Re: electrolytic action and antenna mounts
Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 128707
"If I tape/glue the antenna to the roof the exposed part of the magnet (steel) is still in contact with the alloy skin."

John
 For magnetic antennas, I bed a piece of galvanized sheet steel(a soup can lid works fine) into a thick blob of polyurethane, making sure to have a consistent layer between the roof and sheet steel to prevent them from touching.
 Many have their XM antennas mounted under the escape hatch. The hatch is plastic and does not attenuate the signal.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/2072024700/in/set-72157603324148555>

Larry
2001 MB
* Not to be confused with Larry W (3000 of my posts are actually from expert Larry W due to Yahoo transition mis-step)
Re: electrolytic action and antenna mounts
Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 128708
I'm guessing you want a steel washer on your roof for the magnet in the XM antenna to glom onto. Because the roof metal is painted, you shouldn't have cause any problems by gluing the galvanized washer to it; alternatively, you could use a small square of steel (or your washer) and some outdoor double sticky to hold it on the roof. I like the gray 3M stuff (originally for auto trim) for that kind of use - holds well, but can usually be removed even a year or two later without too much effort.

Eric
2005 Jayco 24SS
Re: electrolytic action and antenna mounts
Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 128709
I like the escape hatch solution.  Thanks a bunch. I figured someone had already envented this particular wheel.
John
Currently: 2008 36' Tiffin Open Road
Previously: 2007 Mid Bath
problem with key in the ignition
Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 128710
HI All, I have not read about this problem before.  I am on a trip and after stopping for a short time put the key in the ignition and it would not turn.
Jiggled the steering wheel, wouldn't turn.  Used my wife's key, still wouldn't turn.  Took key out and opened the driver door and the bonger rang--as if the key was in the ignition.  I called AAA and a guy came out and he put key in igntion and began hitting it with a hammer.  This did not work.  Then he got a bip pair of channel locks and tried twisting the part where the key is pushed into its spot.  It still wouldn't budge.  Then he took the plastic shroud off the steering column and twisted some more and hammered the key some more.
Finally a piece of metal broke free and it worked.  The key turned, the engine started, and when he turned the engine off and removed the key and opened the driver's door no bonging.  So he put the shroud back on and told me it was safe to drive, and when I get home"you may want to get it fixed".  I said "may?"  He said it was no big deal and it works fine and should not be a problem.  So that is where it stands now.  Any other members have a problem like this?  Had it properly repaired?  Any preventive measures you have taken?  Any info/advice would be appreciated.   Doug 2001 MB

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: electrolytic action and antenna mounts
Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 128711
John: at one of the SKP Escapades I picked up a powder paint coated 12" OD steel disk which I glued to the forward roof with the same seam sealant that was sold at Montclair.  It works well with any magnetic base antenna.
Re: problem with key in the ignition
Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 128712
Quote
"I called AAA and a guy came out and he put key in igntion and began hitting it with a hammer... Any info/advice would be appreciated."
Doug 2001 MB

With a hammer yet? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
 Well, at the very least I would want the opinion (if not the services) of a Ford service dept.
 And if you want a little more advice, dump AAA and get something better (like CoachNet).

Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Jiggs
Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Cedar
2004 30'IB (Island Bed)
Yesterday is History, Tomorrow is a Mystery
Live for the day!
Re: problem with key in the ignition
Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 128713
Quote
I called AAA and a guy came out and he put key in igntion and began hitting it with a hammer.  This did not work.
Would not turn at all or would not turn to cranking positioning? If will turn to the first position, move to neutral, and start the engine. That will clear the problem.
 Before calling anyone, I would have called any Ford dealer and talked with the service writer.

Will you continue to pay AAA? Surely you have read this forum long enough to know that many of us do not feel that AAA is worth much.
Don & Dorothy
Sold our LD in June of 2023

Our boring always non-PC travel blog
Traveling Dorothy
Re: problem with key in the ignition
Reply #10 –
Yahoo Message Number: 128714
wrote: I called AAA and a guy came out and he put key in igntion and began hitting it with a hammer.  This did not work.  Then he got a bip pair of channel locks and tried twisting the part where the key is pushed into its spot.  It still wouldn't budge.  Then he took the plastic shroud off the steering column and twisted some more and hammered the key some more.  Finally a piece of metal broke free and it worked.
--- It's possible that the key didn't turn in the ignition because the steering lock mechanism was "engaged"; this situation can happen when one parks with the wheels turned, usually at a pretty good angle. When this has happened with my (automatic transmission) rig, this is the procedure that I've used sucessfully to release the locking pin so the key will turn in the ignition:

1. Put gearshift into "Park".
2. Set the parking brake.
3. "Wiggle" (with *authority*, but don't yank hard!) the steering wheel back and forth, then a little harder towards the direction that the front wheels are (probably) turned.
4. Release the parking brake and try turning the steering wheel.
5. The key should now turn in the ignition.

I would *definitely* get the rig into a Ford service center or into a shop which is knowledgeable about ignition repair; I would not be at all surprised if the twisting and hammering and a "piece of metal breaking free" didn't cause some damage!

Joan
2003 TK has a new home
Re: problem with key in the ignition
Reply #11 –
Yahoo Message Number: 128715
FYI--The problem was NOT the steering wheel causing the key not to turn. I did make sure by firmly jiggling the steering wheel and that did not allow the key to turn.  Furthermore, the clue that this was not a "run of the mill steering column causing the problem" was that even when the key was removed from the ignition, the key was still recognized as being
Re: problem with key in the ignition
Reply #12 –
Yahoo Message Number: 128717
I believe Joan's response was spot on. Jiggling the steering wheel will not do the trick. You need to put a bit of muscle into it to free the lock. I have had this problem and by putting a bit of muscle into it - moving the steering wheel just a bit - allowed the key to turn and off we were.

With what the tech did to your rig, like everyone else recommend, get it to an authorized Ford Truck dealer/maintenance center.

Bob
Re: electrolytic action and antenna mounts
Reply #13 –
Yahoo Message Number: 128718
I'll add my belated two cents' worth. ;-)

1. There's a tendency to think that because the XM (or for that matter, GPS) antenna has a magnet, you have to use it. Nope. Just glue the thing to the roof (Goop, Liquid Nails, or RV sealant will work fine), or as Eric suggested, stick it on with 3M VHB, Outdoor Mounting Tape, or Trim Mounting Tape (all the same thing, as far as I can tell).

4. If you do need a ferrous surface--let's say for a magnet-mount CB antenna that you're afraid glue may not hold securely--one of the best ways to go is a galvanized steel electrical-box cover, available for less than a buck at any hardware store. Spray-paint it to prevent rusting (which could result in streaks down the side of the coach) and then glue it to the roof.
   Bonus--if you hit a low-hanging branch, the antenna will be knocked over rather than broken, and the steel plate will stay glued in place, so you can snap the antenna back onto it with no harm done.

3. The roof is heavily painted, so electrolysis won't be an issue. And with a layer of adhesive between the metal and the roof, you're doubly protected.

4. The escape hatch trick is best of all, because it doesn't require you to pass a wire out onto the roof.

Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: problem with key in the ignition
Reply #14 –
Yahoo Message Number: 128740
"Mechanics" armed with implements of force can be scary.
 I would try putting some dry lock lubricant into the lock cylinder, the place where the key goes, working the key in and out, and trying to turn it. That might solve the problem before the hammer is used. It's a common issue on exterior door locks with an older vehicle, and did happen with an 20+ year old GM car ignition switch to me once. I would not worry about losing the "key in switch" warning noise. If you ever like to leave the door open with the radio on, it can be an advantage, like when you are fueling up and don't want to miss hearing something on the radio without the gong constantly ringing.

Eddie