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Topic: Silicone (Read 11 times) previous topic - next topic
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Silicone
Yahoo Message Number: 125836
I finally got around to sealing my roof today on my '91 RB. After getting all the materials together: 2 50' rolls of Eternabond, 3 spray cans of EternaClean, lacquer thinner,a roller and a Rockwell SoniCrafter multi-tool, I began removing the old gray caulking that was curling and cracked. As I got closer to the seam itself and in the seam there is a clear rubbery material that I assume is silicone which is very tough to remove. Knowing that Eternabond won't stick to silicone I have a dilemma. I'm wondering if I have to remove and dig out ALL of the silicone (very tough job)? If I do try to remove all of it, is there an easier way (Chemicals) than scraping? Or, since the previous owner covered over the silicone, (I'm assuming with polyurethane), if that would be a better way to do the job? Will the "PL" polyurethane stick to silicone? Another thought. Can I leave the silicone in the seam and clean a couple of inches on either side and use the 4" Eternabond tape? Thanks in advance. Dale from Downey.

Re: Silicone
Reply #1
Yahoo Message Number: 125837
"Can I leave the silicone
2001 MB
* Not to be confused with Larry W (3000 of my posts are actually from expert Larry W due to Yahoo transition mis-step)

Re: Silicone
Reply #2
Yahoo Message Number: 125841
Larry, Where can I get some "Aluminum etching solution"? Do you think they would have it at Home Depot? There is going to be lots of bare aluminum when I get done. Are there any secrets to getting this silicone off? So far the best I can do is scrape up an edge and slowly peel it away. At this rate it will take forever. Once I scrape the top off with the scraping tool I can loosen the rest with lacquer thinner and peel it off. A very slow process. That is why I was wondering if you need to get it ALL off. Your comment about having a 1" swath to stick to is helpful.

From: Larry To: lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 8, 2011 4:01 PM Subject: [LD] Re: Silicone

"Can I leave the silicone

Re: Silicone
Reply #3
Yahoo Message Number: 125843
As I got closer to the seam itself and in the seam there is a clear rubbery material that I assume is silicone which is very tough to remove.
 Don't know the vintage of your rig but on our '04 the original factory roof sealant was clear polyurethane painted over with the white paint applied to the roof. I confirmed this with Vince when my sealant developed bubbles and he advised cutting out the bubbles and filling  the void with additional polyurethane sealant. You might want to check with the factory to see what they used on your rig.
John '04 23.5 FL

Re: Silicone
Reply #4
Yahoo Message Number: 125851
John, The clear stuff that is in the joint is very rubbery and stretchable. Was your poly like that? There is poly covering this stuff from the second application that is now cracked and a gray color. Can you put poly over silicone? Dale.

From: JOHN To: lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 8, 2011 5:20 PM Subject: [LD] Re: Silicone

As I got closer to the seam itself and in the seam there is a clear rubbery material that I assume is silicone which is very tough to remove.
 Don't know the vintage of your rig but on our '04 the original factory roof sealant was clear polyurethane painted over with the white paint applied to the roof. I confirmed this with Vince when my sealant developed bubbles and he advised cutting out the bubbles and filling the void with additional polyurethane sealant. You might want to check with the factory to see what they used on your rig.
John '04 23.5 FL

Re: Silicone
Reply #5
Yahoo Message Number: 125863
Quote
John, The clear stuff that is in the joint is very rubbery and stretchable. Was your poly like that? There is poly covering this stuff from the second application that is now cracked and a gray color. Can you put poly over silicone? Dale.
 The clear sealant used on my roof seams was EXTREMELY stretchy and very difficult to remove (kept sticking to the tools). Major PITA. Thank goodness I had to work on small areas. The Poly sealant I repaired the bubbles with has held fast to the clear sealant the factory used.
Nothing I know of sticks to silicone - not even silicone to itself.

John

Re: Silicone
Reply #6
Yahoo Message Number: 125868
Common silicone caulk/sealant is an good glue for silicone rubber. I don't have any problems adhering it to itself.
 Has anyone tried sealing a roof with the standard EPDM rubber sheet that other motorhomes use? It seems like it might eliminate a lot of this kind of work, and do a more thorough job of sealing all leaks (actual and potential). My current motorhome has a rubber roof, and it is still
2005 Jayco 24SS

Re: Silicone
Reply #7
Yahoo Message Number: 125869
"Where can I get some "Aluminum etching solution"? Do you think they would have it at Home Depot?  Are there any secrets to getting this silicone off? . That is why I was wondering if you need to get it ALL off."

Dale
 I will repeat, nothing sticks to silicone. It must completely be remove in any spot where you hope for tape or polyurethane to stick. Your new Rockwell tool, with a steel scraper blade is you best friend for removing mass amounts of sealant.
To get the last bits of silicone off and to expose bare metal, an 80 or 120-grit flapper disc, used with an 4-1/2" angle grinder, is the ticket.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200309205_200309205>
http://www.toolbarn.com/makita-9557pb.html>
 Aluminum etching solution is available at the Depot or most paint stores.

Larry
2001 MB
* Not to be confused with Larry W (3000 of my posts are actually from expert Larry W due to Yahoo transition mis-step)

Re: Silicone
Reply #8
Yahoo Message Number: 125874
John, So if the sticky stretchy stuff that I have is not really silicone but clear poly, Eternabond should stick to it if I can't get it ALL off? I will call Vince on Monday. He may want to look at it, and not like it when I tell him I want to cover it with Eternabond.
Dale.

From: JOHN To: lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 8:53 AM Subject: [LD] Re: Silicone

Re: Silicone
Reply #9
Yahoo Message Number: 125876
Larry, Did you read the message by John? He says that in the early '90's LD may have used a clear Polyurethane to seal the roof joints and painted it white. He also says that it is very stretchy and rubbery like I imagine silicone would be. I'm wondering how I could tell whether what I have, is Silicone or Poly. If it were poly I would be a lot less nervous about making sure I got it ALL of because Eternabond should stick to clear Poly, right? Thanks for the tip on the angle grinder. I have one, and I will buy some flapper discs. Do the discs plug up quickly. How many do you think I will need? I would imagine that you need to be somewhat careful as to the pressure you put on the grinder so as to NOT go through the Aluminum. Is the 80 or 120 grit the best? I've seen your blurb on how to do this job and I'm really glad that I have someone who has done this before to talk to. Thanks Larry, for helping out. It's much appreciated. Believe me! Dale from Downey.

From: Larry To: lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 10:50 AM Subject: [LD] Re: Silicone

"Where can I get some "Aluminum etching solution"? Do you think they would have it at Home Depot? Are there any secrets to getting this silicone off? . That is why I was wondering if you need to get it ALL off."

Dale
 I will repeat, nothing sticks to silicone. It must completely be remove in any spot where you hope for tape or polyurethane to stick. Your new Rockwell tool, with a steel scraper blade is you best friend for removing mass amounts of sealant.
To get the last bits of silicone off and to expose bare metal, an 80 or 120-grit flapper disc, used with an 4-1/2" angle grinder, is the ticket.

Aluminum etching solution is available at the Depot or most paint stores.

Larry

Re: Silicone
Reply #10
Yahoo Message Number: 125877
Dale
 Your 90's era LD's roof seam was originally sealed with a wide strip of polyurethane, as John has already noted. It is "very stretchy and rubbery like " and tough to cut.
Silicone is similar but it is much easier to cut away. Doesn't really matter if you have silicone or polyurethane, the Eternabond will not stick to either.
Does your roof have an additional application of a sealant over the original Factory seam sealant? Please post a photo or two, it would help clarify things and end the guessing.
 You are right about having to be careful with the disc grinder. Try a 120-grit flapper-disc. One high-quality disc (or several from Harbor Freight) may be enough. You should get as much sealant off as possible with the Rockwell chisel and then clean up the surface with the flapper.
https://www.rockwelltools.com/US/Description-P1415.aspx>
 When completely done with the power tools, scrub the roof and seams with soap and water and let dry.
Wipe the surface with a clean rag and lacquer thinner before applying the tape. Use a roller, such as a wall paper or veneer roller, to throughly roll out any bubbles and make sure the tape is evenly pressed down.

Larry
2001 MB
* Not to be confused with Larry W (3000 of my posts are actually from expert Larry W due to Yahoo transition mis-step)

Re: Silicone
Reply #11
Yahoo Message Number: 125878
Larry, Yes there is an additional sealant that is hard and gray and cracked. I'm almost done chiseling one side. I've never sent pictures on this site before. Do you click on "attach large files" at the top tool bar? Thanks again.
Dale.

From: Larry To: lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 1:28 PM Subject: [LD] Re: Silicone     
Dale
 Your 90's era LD's roof seam was originally sealed with a wide strip of polyurethane, as John has already noted. It is "very stretchy and rubbery like " and tough to cut.
Silicone is similar but it is much easier to cut away. Doesn't really matter if you have silicone or polyurethane, the Eternabond will not stick to either.
Does your roof have an additional application of a sealant over the original Factory seam sealant? Please post a photo or two, it would help clarify things and end the guessing.
 You are right about having to be careful with the disc grinder. Try a 120-grit flapper-disc. One high-quality disc (or several from Harbor Freight) may be enough. You should get as much sealant off as possible with the Rockwell chisel and then clean up the surface with the flapper.
https://www.rockwelltools.com/US/Description-P1415.aspx>
 When completely done with the power tools, scrub the roof and seams with soap and water and let dry.
Wipe the surface with a clean rag and lacquer thinner before applying the tape. Use a roller, such as a wall paper or veneer roller, to throughly roll out any bubbles and make sure the tape is evenly pressed down.

Larry

Re: Silicone
Reply #12
Yahoo Message Number: 125879
Attachments :

    Larry, Here is my attempt at sending  pictures (3).
    Dale.

    From: Larry To: lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 1:28 PM Subject: [LD] Re: Silicone     
    Dale
     Your 90's era LD's roof seam was originally sealed with a wide strip of polyurethane, as John has already noted. It is "very stretchy and rubbery like " and tough to cut.
    Silicone is similar but it is much easier to cut away. Doesn't really matter if you have silicone or polyurethane, the Eternabond will not stick to either.
    Does your roof have an additional application of a sealant over the original Factory seam sealant? Please post a photo or two, it would help clarify things and end the guessing.
     You are right about having to be careful with the disc grinder. Try a 120-grit flapper-disc. One high-quality disc (or several from Harbor Freight) may be enough. You should get as much sealant off as possible with the Rockwell chisel and then clean up the surface with the flapper.
    https://www.rockwelltools.com/US/Description-P1415.aspx>
     When completely done with the power tools, scrub the roof and seams with soap and water and let dry.
    Wipe the surface with a clean rag and lacquer thinner before applying the tape. Use a roller, such as a wall paper or veneer roller, to throughly roll out any bubbles and make sure the tape is evenly pressed down.

    Larry

    Re: Silicone
    Reply #13
    Yahoo Message Number: 125881
    Larry, I was wondering if you got the pictures (3) I sent of the roof seam.
    Dale.

    From: Larry To: lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 1:28 PM Subject: [LD] Re: Silicone     
    Dale
     Your 90's era LD's roof seam was originally sealed with a wide strip of polyurethane, as John has already noted. It is "very stretchy and rubbery like " and tough to cut.
    Silicone is similar but it is much easier to cut away. Doesn't really matter if you have silicone or polyurethane, the Eternabond will not stick to either.
    Does your roof have an additional application of a sealant over the original Factory seam sealant? Please post a photo or two, it would help clarify things and end the guessing.
     You are right about having to be careful with the disc grinder. Try a 120-grit flapper-disc. One high-quality disc (or several from Harbor Freight) may be enough. You should get as much sealant off as possible with the Rockwell chisel and then clean up the surface with the flapper.
    https://www.rockwelltools.com/US/Description-P1415.aspx>
     When completely done with the power tools, scrub the roof and seams with soap and water and let dry.
    Wipe the surface with a clean rag and lacquer thinner before applying the tape. Use a roller, such as a wall paper or veneer roller, to throughly roll out any bubbles and make sure the tape is evenly pressed down.

    Larry

    Re: Silicone
    Reply #14
    Yahoo Message Number: 125882
    "I was wondering if you got the pictures (3) I sent of the roof seam."
     They showed up in your post, Dale, as small thumbnails that linked to larger images. :-)

    Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
    Andy Baird
    2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
    Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

    Re: Silicone
    Reply #15
    Yahoo Message Number: 125884
    Andy, I was wondering why my posts aren't visible to me? Dale.

    From: Andy Baird To: lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 7:12 PM Subject: [LD] Re: Silicone

    "I was wondering if you got the pictures (3) I sent of the roof seam."
     They showed up in your post, Dale, as small thumbnails that linked to larger images. :-)

    Andy Baird
    http://www.andybaird.com/travels/

    Re: Silicone
    Reply #16
    Yahoo Message Number: 125886
    Dale

    Saw the photos.
    A previous owner did you no favors.
    You have the same job I did on Barbara's LD.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157624693172984/>
     It's not absolutely necessary to remove all the old sealant but I didn't find it all that difficult using the vibratory tool with a sharp chisel. I did sharpen it a few times during the removal. Running into  screws, hiding under the old sealant, didn't help matters.
    Removing all the old sealant and sealing the seam with fresh polyurethane, then Eternabond tape, will give you a bullet-proof seal.

    Larry
    2001 MB
    * Not to be confused with Larry W (3000 of my posts are actually from expert Larry W due to Yahoo transition mis-step)

    Re: Silicone
    Reply #17
    Yahoo Message Number: 125889
    "I was wondering why my posts aren't visible to me?"
     Dale, your posts are showing up on the website just as they always have. Are you saying that you can see everybody else's, but you can't see your own? Or that they are not appearing in the emails, if you read the posts that way? I can't think of any reason why that would happen.

    Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
    Andy Baird
    2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
    Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

    Re: Silicone
    Reply #18
    Yahoo Message Number: 125891
    Quote

    On Oct 10, 2011, at 4:04 AM, Andy Baird wrote:

    Quote

    "I was wondering why my posts aren't visible to me?"
     Dale, your posts are showing up on the website just as they always have. Are you saying that you can see everybody else's, but you can't see your own? Or that they are not appearing in the emails, if you read the posts that way? I can't think of any reason why that would happen.

    Some mailing lists have a feature that says something like "don't send copies of what I send to the mailing list to me" but I don't recall if Yahoo is one of those..
    You might check your settings for your particular profile on the LD group site as that might be the case if Yahoo does offer that setting.  I know that I see your posts just fine.

    Re: Silicone
    Reply #19
    Yahoo Message Number: 125893
    If I use my Escapees email address for my Yahoo Groups, I get a copy of my posts back.  However, using my GMail address, I don't get my posts back.  So, apparently, whether you get your posts back is a function of your email service and not Yahoo.

    Linda Hylton

    Sent from my Verizon Wireless Device

    Rick & Nellie Flower nrf@...> wrote:
    Linda Hylton

    Re: Silicone
    Reply #20
    Yahoo Message Number: 125894
    Andy, I 'm saying that my posts don't appear to me in the E-mails. I haven't checked the web-site.
    Dale.

    From: Andy Baird To: lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 4:04 AM Subject: [LD] Re: Silicone

    "I was wondering why my posts aren't visible to me?"
     Dale, your posts are showing up on the website just as they always have. Are you saying that you can see everybody else's, but you can't see your own? Or that they are not appearing in the emails, if you read the posts that way? I can't think of any reason why that would happen.

    Andy Baird
    http://www.andybaird.com/travels/