Log In | Register
Skip to main content
Topic: Roof repair (Read 13 times) previous topic - next topic
0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
Roof repair
Yahoo Message Number: 117919
Hi All,  The time has come to again, reseal the roof seams of our 1983 LD.  I have checked out the info in the archives and it looks like Eternabond is the way to go this time.  First, I have a few questions.
1.  Best Materials has a good price on Ehernabond white roofseal are they a good, reliable company?  Is the product they offer fresh?
2.  I think I will need about 70 or so feet of 4" tape to do the roof seams.  Is it necessary to use 2" wide tape for the hatches, vents etc.  or can I use the rest of the 4" wide tape for that job.  If needed, can I cut the 4" wide tape into narrower strips of will I end up with a big mess and a sticky pair of scissors?  Thanks in advance for your help.  Gene

Re: Roof repair
Reply #1
Yahoo Message Number: 117921
Quote
Hi All,  The time has come to again, reseal the roof seams of our 1983 LD.  I have checked out the info in the archives and it looks like Eternabond is the way to go this time.  First, I have a few questions.
1.  Best Materials has a good price on Ehernabond white roofseal are they a good, reliable company?  Is the product they offer fresh? YES.  JUST BOUGHT AND USED LESS THAN 2 ROLLS OF 4" WHITE FROM BEST AND THEY WENT ON PERFECTLY.
2.  I think I will need about 70 or so feet of 4" tape to do the roof seams.  Is it necessary to use 2" wide tape for the hatches, vents etc.  or can I use the rest of the 4" wide tape for that job. YOU CAN USE 4" WIDE TAPE AND CUT AS NEEDED.  MY SCISSORS DID NOT GET STICKY. If needed, can I cut the 4" wide tape into narrower strips of will I end up with a big mess and a sticky pair of scissors?
 Thanks in advance for your help.  Gene
Chris Horst 2002 30' IB Arvada CO
Formerly: 2002 30' IB

Re: Roof repair
Reply #2
Yahoo Message Number: 117929
"The time has come to again, reseal the roof seams of our 1983 LD."

Gene
 Eternabond tape should have a minimum of 1" contact on each side of the Factory seal. How was the roof been resealed previously? Was the old sealant removed or covered up with new sealant or what?
 If a coating, such as trailer roof seal or some other coating, has been applied and slopped onto the Factory painted area, the whole mess will need to be removed before taping.
Eternabond tape needs a clean surface to stick to; either bare, etched aluminum or clean Factory paint.
If the previous seal job used silicone sealant, take it down to bare metal.
Eternabond is amazing stuff but it can and will fail if the surface isn't clean. There have been case where it will not properly bond to prepared surfaces, probably due to an unseen silicone or other contamination.
 If I remember right, it takes just over 50' to tape the roof seams, assuming your LD has a three piece roof.
Taping the vents and hatches is of limited usefulness.
The seams are not subjected to the forces needed to break the seal and I have never seen or heard of a stock hatch leaking through the Factory seal, unless the hatch had been damaged.
Taping the seams will reduce ultraviolet damage to the plastic vents mounting flanges. Many already have vent covers that keep the sun off of the vents below.
White spray paint does a good job of protecting plastic from sun damage. All exposed plastic hatch covers deserve to be painted and will benefit from much longer lives.
 Have fun trying to cut strips of Eternabond tape. Your scissors will need continuous cleaning. Applying oil or silicone spray may contaminate the tape. Try to use the tape in whole pieces as much as possible. Overlapping the tape, instead of cutting, is permissible.

Keeping the roof sealed so critical for long-term survival.
I just finished rebuilding the framing in the front corners of an older LD. This LD has suffered from a leaking roof and wall for many years. The previous owner evidently had tried to fix the problem and failed miserably. The damage was not initially noticed by the new owner for a long time.
When the walls were opened up, there was a office-size trash can load of composted framing. The wall above the driver's was starting to collapse from lack of support. When opening the driver's door, the top of the door hit the bottom of the cab over...not good and it would only get worse if not corrected.
When the structural members rot way, the only thing left holding the wall up is the sheet aluminum and the front cap.
Caution- Some may find these photos to be disturbing.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157625292745084/>

Larry
2001 MB
* Not to be confused with Larry W (3000 of my posts are actually from expert Larry W due to Yahoo transition mis-step)