questions of electrolysis February 17, 2010, 01:38:59 pm Yahoo Message Number: 110190A lot of you are sending me alternatives that sound great. However, I am not sure how the whole question of electrolysis fits in with just doing a coating process. As I understand the process, without "cutting out" or removing the affected areas of the aluminum roof, the electrolysis will continue going on UNDER whatever coating I might apply. Also, the repairman said that a portion [albeit a very small 1ft sq. section directly above the center of the cabover , between the pass./driver section] feels "mushy' which indicates dry rot is most likely starting...seems likely under the circumstances.Leaving the affected aluminum, and wood sub roof "as is" seems like just putting a bandaid on the problem.As I said, I'm going to take it to Vince for his opinion on what is the best choice of action. On a side note, he thinks I ought to just order a 2010...grin...would that I could!! He is a real hoot--glad to know I can count on him to give me the proper answer to all this. Still in shock tho. Off to research on electrolysis...thank goodness for the 'net! Gini Free and Junah, canine xtrodinaire "Kooch" our little red home on wheels "Growing old is mandatory. Growing wise is optional."
Re: questions of electrolysis Reply #1 – February 17, 2010, 01:51:30 pm Yahoo Message Number: 110193Check out Tioga George. He had his whole roof fiberglassed in Mexico.
Re: questions of electrolysis Reply #2 – February 17, 2010, 05:41:34 pm Yahoo Message Number: 110200Quote "As I said, I'm going to take it to Vince for his opinion on what is the best choice of action." Gini Free and Junah, canine xtrodinaire "Kooch" our little red home on wheels "Growing old is mandatory. Growing wise is optional." Gini I agree with you 110%. If I were in your shoes I would run, not walk, straight to the folks who assebled the tinker toy in the 1st place. Only they know what they have to deal with.Good Luck!Steve S. Lazy Bones & Jiggs
Re: questions of electrolysis Reply #3 – February 17, 2010, 10:24:56 pm Yahoo Message Number: 110207Well they assembled it and they sealed it but I'll bet they charge a bunch to fix it the same way they did it the first time, at least it seems from another report on here that as late as 2007 they still had issues. Get the leaks sealed, then get things really dry, probably best done by sealing the rig
Re: questions of electrolysis Reply #4 – February 18, 2010, 01:38:41 am Yahoo Message Number: 110212"Check out Tioga George. He had his whole roof fiberglassed in Mexico." Not just the roof. George had his entire motorhome covered in a layer of fiberglass from top to bottom. He was desperate to stop the leaks in his Tioga. (By the way, he says he'd've bought a Lazy Daze if he'd known what he knows now.) As I recall, the fiberglassing failed to stop the leaks, probably because they were at vents or windows. And although I haven't seen before-and-after figures, fiberglassing the entire coach had to have added significant weight to an already heavily laden rig. This isn't a procedure I'd recommend.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: questions of electrolysis Reply #5 – February 18, 2010, 06:23:03 am Yahoo Message Number: 110213I have a 94' LD MB that has a couple of blistering spots on the vertical aluminum skin within a foot of the rear ladder.How does one differentiate from blistering and electrolysis? The paint is still intact and not broken where the blisters are. The bubbles appear created under the paint. What does one do to determine the cause of the blistering and what is the proper method of repair?Ed 94' LD 26.5' MB Port Richey, FL
Re: questions of electrolysis Reply #6 – February 18, 2010, 06:33:25 pm Yahoo Message Number: 110254Responding to Ed who asked, "What does one do to determine the cause of the blistering and what is the proper method of repair", if I saw blisters on the paint over the aluminum, I think I would get my rig to the mothership for repair. If you want to repair it yourself, I would start by carefully sanding away the paint over the blister to expose the underlying aluminum. Once you can see the aluminum, you can assess whether there is a problem there or whether it simply needs repainting. Rustoleum Gloss White is a fairly good color match, but I would view any paint but the factory's original paint as temporary. If you see a problem with the aluminum (salts, chalking, pits, etc) you will need to find the cause of that and make repairs before covering it. IMHO, if there is blistering, there is a reason for it which almost certainly means something amiss on the aluminum.Above all, before doing anything I would first call Vince at the factory and seek his advice. Don't create problems that will cost you extra for them to undo.Ken F. in NM[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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