A dumb towing question January 27, 2009, 06:18:42 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98846I'm preparing to install my towing gear (Roadmaster Sterling towbar and baseplate; ReadyBrake braking system), and have run into a question: to what do the safety cables attach on the Lazy Daze side? I looked under the rear bumper, and I see a few big holes, but nothing that looks suited to the big hooks on the safety cables that came with the Roadmaster towbar. Seems odd the LD would provide the hitch receiver, but not include points of attachment for safety chains. Or am I missing something? This is a 2003 26.5' midbath, by the way.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #1 – January 27, 2009, 06:53:19 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98848Quote I looked under the rear bumper, and I see a few big holes, but nothing that looks suited to the big hooks on the safety cables that came with the Roadmaster towbar. Seems odd the LD would provide the hitch receiver, but not include points of attachment for safety chains. Or am I missing something? This is a 2003 26.5' midbath, by the way.Andy, There are no attachment points provided by the factory supplier receiver. On my Blue Ox set-up, I feed the hook end of the safety cables through the large holes in the bumper. The hook will fit over the bumper with enough room to fasten the restraining straps over the open end of the hooks. I don't have to loop the cables. I remember a couple of discussions on some solutions to address this situation (might be on the Techsnoz site - see TowHooks.pdf ). Haven't personally tried this yet.Bill Wild Thing NE 59
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #2 – January 27, 2009, 07:21:31 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98849Seems odd the LD would provide the hitch Quotereceiver, but not include points of attachment for safety chains. Or am I missing something? This is a 2003 26.5' midbath, by the way.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/ Andy, I use 2 chains about 24" long to make a loop on each side so that I can attach my safety chains. I'm only towing a small aluminum boat but safety chains are still required. Joe Hamm-2003 MB
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #3 – January 27, 2009, 07:47:49 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98850Thanks to all who replied online or via email! So far, the solution Terry Tanner sets forth in TowHooks.pdf (in the Yahoo "Techsnoz" group's Files area) looks like the best one: a couple of 8" lengths of 7/16" threaded rod with a couple of heavy chain links dangling from the center of each one. Slip one of these into each of the 3" holes on the underside of the bumper, and the safety cables snap onto the dangling links. All off-the-shelf hardware, and no welding required.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #4 – January 27, 2009, 08:09:15 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98851QuoteI'm preparing to install my towing gear (Roadmaster Sterling towbar and baseplate; ReadyBrake braking system), and have run into a question: to what do the safety cables attach on the Lazy Daze side? Andy,A number of people have described ways to attach towing safety cables to the LD. I have tried a couple and settled on a 1 foot length of 3/8" chain (Grade 43, Working Load 5,400 lb.) wrapped around the 3" hole on the bottom of the bumper and secured with a 3/8" stainless steel quick link. This allows the chain to extend flush with the back edge of the bumper where standard 6' cables easily reach it. The chains stay in place all the time. Connecting the cables to them is easy and fast and they work exactly the way LD intended the 3" holes to be used.If you get two 1' lengths of chain from the hardware store, the only tool needed to install this is a wrench. Pretty simple.The quick link had to be stainless steel in order to attain a 3500 lb working load. Standard 3/8" quick links are only rated at 2,200 lb.All parts were obtained at Home Depot.A photo is in the photos section under Safety Cable Extender.MontiMonument, CO
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #5 – January 27, 2009, 08:12:25 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98852All off-the-shelf hardware, and no welding required. I looked at that idea when I was towing but set it aside. The Blue Ox safety cables are rated at 5,000#, as I recall. My toad weighed right at 3,000#. Off-the-shelf hardware wasn't rated anywhere near those figures. The old saw about a chain being only as strong as its weakest link kept me from using such hardware. As suggested already, I simply looped the Blue Ox cables through the hole & around the bumper. Worked well for my needs. As always, YMMV.Ed
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #6 – January 27, 2009, 09:28:55 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98854"I have tried a couple and settled on a 1 foot length of 3/8" chain (Grade 43, Working Load 5,400 lb.) wrapped around the 3" hole on the bottom of the bumper and secured with a 3/8" stainless steel quick link."Better and better! :-) That's simpler than Terry Tanner's method. Since my toad weighs only 2,300 pounds, the chains you describe (2 x 5,400 pounds) would provide a 400% safety margin. Even one chain would be more than strong enough. I just need to drive down to Lowe's in Las Cruces and get the hardware.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #7 – January 27, 2009, 09:59:50 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98855Andy, our LD(2003) came with two large galvanized eye hooks that extend downward below the large plate that was factory installed. That plate is bolted to the frame. The eye hooks(probably installed by the original owner) easily accept the large safety cables. Mine are about 6-8 inches off center. Also be sure to get a locking straight pin for your slide assembly that holds the tow mechanism into your hitch. Then the assembly is secured to the rig. The standard pin can be removed and you'd lose the tow bar. Take care, john leach. Prescott.__
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #8 – January 28, 2009, 08:20:10 am Yahoo Message Number: 98857"I have tried a couple and settled on a 1 foot length of 3/8" chain (Grade 43, Working Load 5,400 lb.) wrapped around the 3" hole on the bottom of the bumper and secured with a 3/8" stainless steel quick link."Andy - I sure hope that your bumper is also rated at 5,400#!Glen w/SOB & safety cables to frame![Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #9 – January 28, 2009, 09:36:18 am Yahoo Message Number: 98858"be sure to get a locking straight pin for your slide assembly that holds the tow mechanism into your hitch."Yup! That came with Roadmaster's accessory kit, as well as two keyed-alike padlocks for the quick disconnects on the toad end of the towbar.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #10 – January 28, 2009, 09:50:42 am Yahoo Message Number: 98859Quote I'm preparing to install my towing gear (Roadmaster Sterling towbar and baseplate; ReadyBrake braking system), and have run into a question: to what do the safety cables attach on the Lazy Daze side? I looked under the rear bumper, and I see a few big holes, but nothing that looks suited to the big hooks on the safety cables that came with the Roadmaster towbar. Seems odd the LD would provide the hitch receiver, but not include points of attachment for safety chains. Or am I missing something? This is a 2003 26.5' midbath, by the way.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/ Andy, I solved the same problem by having two 5/16" cables made with eyes spliced on both ends. The overall length is about 24" for each. Simply thread one end of the cable through the opening under the bumper then back through the other eye. Snap the tow cable onto the open eye. In my case I have an offset extension installed in the 2" receiver to level the tow bar. The added cables give me the additional length required by the offset. I had the cables made at a supplier who makes rigging slings for cranes. Check the Yellow Pages under "Rigger's equipment and supplies."Ron in Ohio
A dumb towing question Reply #11 – January 28, 2009, 12:22:48 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98866I ran into the same issue. Initially I considered looping the cables through the holes. When I thought about the dynamics of a failure, the cables would have been pulled across a sharp edge. I talked with my friend Erik who suggested a shackle. Ultimately I found shackles big enough to go through the holes and close, yet small enough that the cable hooks would be able to snap onto them. The chains suggested by others should work IF the connecting link is strong enough, but I suspect that the chains may rattle a bit. Ken
A dumb towing question Reply #12 – January 28, 2009, 02:54:56 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98873"When I thought about the dynamics of a failure, the cables would have been pulled across a sharp edge." My thoughts exactly. Looping a cable around that edge poses a risk of wear and fraying. Using shackles or a chain eliminates that risk.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
A dumb towing question Reply #13 – January 28, 2009, 03:26:47 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98874Quote "...Ultimately I found shackles big enough to go through the holes and close, yet small enough that the cable hooks would be able to snap onto them..."Ken This is what I did on our '02 30'. Works great.Chris
A dumb towing question Reply #14 – January 28, 2009, 04:10:07 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98875Quote "My thoughts exactly. Looping a cable around that edge poses a risk of wear and fraying. Using shackles or a chain eliminates that risk.Andy Baird Andy Here's my two cents... I drilled (5/8"?) holes through the web on both sides of the receiver tube and inserted a quick link. Makes a handy place to attach those safety cables.Steve S. Lazy Bones & Jiggs
A dumb towing question Reply #15 – January 28, 2009, 06:04:39 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98876---Quote My thoughts exactly. Looping a cable around that edge poses a risk of wear and fraying. Using shackles or a chain eliminates that risk.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/ Andy, if you haven't hooked up your chains yet then, if possible, run them alongside the hitch and towbar instead of underneath. Mine bottomed out and guess what got smashed--Yep the chains. I didn't recognize this for sometime and at least half the braided wires, on each chain, were cut completely through. Not a Safe situation. By the way, this was on a Ready Brake combo tow bar and brake. Great product.John K.
A dumb towing question Reply #16 – January 28, 2009, 07:10:13 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98877"if you haven't hooked up your chains yet then, if possible, run them alongside the hitch and towbar instead of underneath."The Roadmaster Sterling towbar has built-in channels for the tow cables and wiring harness, so they pass through the towbar instead of hanging down. If I understand you correctly, this should avoid the situation you describe--yes?Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #17 – January 28, 2009, 09:57:41 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98889Steve S., I did the very same on "Yonder" back in '05. There had been some talk on the list, relating as to how the factory said this was a no-no and would weaken the hitch. That is just plain silly, of course. As an aside, in aircraft there are often holes made in structural parts. These are called "lightening holes", as their purpose is ostensibly to make the structure lighter while not detracting from the strength of the part. However, every aeronautical engineer knows that they are really "heavying holes", as they weaken the structure and necessitate the addition of heavy reinforcements elsewhere (g).bumper Yonder Minden NV
A dumb towing question Reply #18 – January 28, 2009, 11:36:43 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98893Hi Any, QuoteThe Roadmaster Sterling towbar has built-in channels for the tow cables and wiring harness, so they pass through the towbar instead of hanging down. If I understand you correctly, this should avoid the situation you describe--yes? Not quite I'm afraid. I've towed by Jeep Cherokee behind my 2005 MB for 4 years and about 50K miles using a Roadmaster Sterling tow bar. (Mine has Blue Ox feet as I have a Blue Ox base plate on the Jeep.) I have an electrical cable and a the Roadmaster standard safety cable in each of the Sterling's "cable tunnels."My experience has been that when you "bottom out" with the Sterling (like coming out of a service station) the part of the Sterling that hits the pavement is the bottom of the vertical bolt that serves as the horizontal pivot point for the arm (or at least some part of that horizontal pivot point). I have damaged both electrical cables and have clipped the blue plastic housing on one of the safety cables.I now have the electrical cables taped to the sides of that part of the tow bar that goes into the hitch receiver. After hooking up, I pull most of the electrical cables back through the "cable tunnels" toward the Jeep and leave only minimum slack at the tow bar. It keeps the cables out from under the "bottom out contact point."The safety cables present a bit of a problem. Doing the recommended "crossover" under the tow bar, tends to place the cables under the "bottom out contact point." I have found that with enough slack in the cables at the LD end, they tend to stay out of the way. Therefore, I pull my safety cables through the "cable tunnels" to leave minimum slack at the Jeep end.A number of people have offered advice on how to attach the safety cables to the LD. I found a pair of those "threaded chain link" things that were about 4-inches long. They were wide enough to fit through the hole in the lower bumper and over the rear edge. I can't remember the rated working load, but I am sure that it individually it was less than the weight of the Jeep that I tow. I just clip the Sterling safety cable hooks into them. Probably not the "ideal" solution from the purist engineering point of view, however, I am confident that they will do the job if it is ever needed.I have looked at putting a "bottom out caster" on the bottom of my Sterling tow bar, however, it is rather low on my prioritized list of things that I need to do to the LD.Happy towing!Doug
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #19 – January 29, 2009, 12:05:11 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98898Quote Steve S.,I did the very same on "Yonder" back in '05. There had been some talk on the list, relating as to how the factory said this was a no-no and would weaken the hitch. That is just plain silly, of course.I too drilled the holes after asking a mechanical engineer for his opinion...he said it would not be a problem.Dick 05 Red RK Ridgecrest, CA
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #20 – January 29, 2009, 02:19:32 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98904I did the same after reading those posts and remembering what I had learned
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #21 – January 29, 2009, 06:29:37 pm Yahoo Message Number: 98909I stopped at a local hardware store this morning and bought two one-foot lengths of heavy chain and two big Quicklinks. Works great--thanks to everybody for your help! By the way, the Roadmaster baseplate for the Fit arrived a couple of days ago, and I'll be tackling that installation in the next couple of days.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
A dumb towing question Reply #22 – January 30, 2009, 08:42:09 am Yahoo Message Number: 98919Quote "When I thought about the dynamics of a failure, the cables would have been pulled across a sharp edge." My thoughts exactly. Looping a cable around that edge poses a risk of wear and fraying. Using shackles or a chain eliminates that risk.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/ I've been towing using the cables for 9 years. Since the cable is not under constant load there has been no wear or fraying of the cables and... they are quieter than chain.Ron in Ohio
Re: A dumb towing question Reply #23 – January 30, 2009, 09:52:46 am Yahoo Message Number: 98920On Fri, 30 Jan 2009 14:42:07 -0000, "Ron" rlswartz@...> wroteQuoteI've been towing using the cables for 9 years. Since the cable is not under constant load there has been no wear or fraying of the cables I rejected looping the cables through the holes in the bumper because the cable would be bent in half if it was had to stop a breakaway. The rated breaking strength of wire cables is when there is a straight pull on them. Bent in half the breaking strength is LESS than half of the rating.Cheers, Don
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