Log In | Register
Skip to main content
Topic: Using downshifting on steep grades (Read 5 times) previous topic - next topic
0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
Using downshifting on steep grades
Yahoo Message Number: 56521
If you're traveling through mountainous areas (Grand Tetons, Yellowstone, Yosemite) what is the proper way to down shift and the maximum speeds you can change gears at? If you're going 40-50 mph and you need to downshift, is it OK to go to second gear and at which point, if necessary, can you go to first gear? Also, how long can you drive going down a steep grade 7-10 percent in second gear without damaging the transmission in a LD? Do you have to stop and cool off every now and then, e.g. if you're driving for 10 min. in second gear? After a lengthy trip of such driving, do you recommend changing your transmission fluid? Thanks Ron and Sue 1997 30 ft Lazy Daze
Re: Using downshifting on steep grades
Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 56526
We just returned from an 8,000 mi trip to Alaska.  Before leaving I installed a tachometer and transmission temp guage.

The short version is that I was able to keep the transmission temp below 200, even when the ambient temp was at 100 (Montana-coming home).  My self imposed limits were 3000 rpm and 200 degrees.  I did not find the trans temps to rise much when going down long grades in a lower gear.  It is much safer/wiser to determine which gear you are going to need going down and start in that gear.  Much less stress on the engine and transmission that way rather than downshifting on the grade and if you find the grade is too steep for the gear you have chosen, then you have some cool brakes to slow you for the downshift.
(I have never done it, but I understand that if you overheat the brakes too much that the brake fluid will boil and the brake peddle will go to the floor-no brakes-not good!) At 6-7% grades, I always started with over drive off (3rd gear), 7-9% second gear, and 10%+ in first with an anchor out.  If you are towing, this is even more important, because the toad is doing no braking (unless you use the LD brakes and activate the toad brakes), and you have the extra weight.  I was not towing this trip.
 I have a 95 MB with the 460 Ford, so your drivetrain (trans?) will be somewhat different.  The gauges were a big help for my peace of mind through the mountain passes and longer grades.

Hope this helps

Bob Sun Prairie, WI
Re: Using downshifting on steep grades
Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 56527
wrote: "If you're traveling through mountainous areas (Grand Tetons, Yellowstone, Yosemite) what is the proper way to down shift and the maximum speeds you can change gears at?" ---- In general, it's best to go down the mountain at about the same speed you went up, using the transmission and "engine braking" instead of smoking/glazing the brakes.  Here are some general suggestions for descending grades:

1. Click off the overdrive!
2. Keep the transmission in "Drive" *unless* the grade is steep and the  road is very curvy, eg, 8%-9% or more. If the grade is steep, the  surface is rough, the lanes are very narrow, and/or the curves are  frequent and of the "hairpin" type, use 2nd gear.  I drop to about 25  before shifting into 2nd; it's unlikely that you should be going much  faster than this anyway if you're driving the conditions named above!  If the grade is super-steep, eg, 11-12% or more for any distance, I  usually drop into 1st gear; shift into 1st at about 10-15 mph.
3. Brake before going "into" a curve, not when you're already going  around the corner; knock off about 5 mph of speed each time by "stab  braking" lightly. Don't ride the brakes; allow the engine and gearing  to slow the vehicle.
4. Don't allow the tailhuggers to push you or make you nervous!  If  there's a SAFE space to do so, pull over and let them race by; you'll  be at the same place when they have to jam on their brakes at the next  curve or they go over the side!
5. Listen to the engine!  (If you have a tach, watch the rpms.)  If the
 engine is "screaming", you're going too fast for the gear choice (and probably too fast for the road conditions); slow down and adjust as necessary.
 The only problem that I've ever found with mountain driving (I love to drive mountain roads!) is the dumb-stunt prone idiots (unfortunately, their numbers seem to be increasing) whose driving skill levels are no match for their egos! You have no control over what they might do, so just use those mirrors, gear down, go slow, stay off the brakes, and pull off ONLY when it's safe for you to do so.

Joan
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Using downshifting on steep grades
Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 56533
"jctaylor1941"  wrote:

Quote
...If there's a SAFE space to do so, pull over and let [following traffic] get by...
Remember to slow *way* down before pulling off the pavement.  The pullouts along mountain roads are often poorly surfaced, and there's often a big step down from the traffic lane to the pullout.  Sure, the drivers behind you will be annoyed, but your safety and the mechanical integrity of your rig are more important.

--oryoki
Re: Using downshifting on steep grades
Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 56535
"oryoki2000"  wrote: "jctaylor1941"  wrote: ...If there's a SAFE space to do so, pull over and let [following traffic] get by...

Remember to slow *way* down before pulling off the pavement.  The pullouts along mountain roads are often poorly surfaced, and there's often a big step down from the traffic lane to the pullout.  Sure, the drivers behind you will be annoyed, but your safety and the mechanical integrity of your rig are more important.
____
 Absolutely! John Ward, my driving instructor from rvschool.com, said to try to drive "15 seconds ahead and behind", i.e., the driver should be aware of and prepared for (as much as possible) what's happening in both directions for around that amount of time.
Whenever possible (not always easy!), I try to spot safe pullouts before they're needed. And, using the turn signal when slowing down to pull off may help keep the number of "digital responses" from following drivers to a minimum....or not.  ;-)

Joan
2003 TK has a new home
Using downshifting on steep grades
Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 56522
Quote
If you're traveling through mountainous areas (Grand Tetons, Yellowstone, Yosemite) what is the proper way to down shift and the maximum speeds you can change gears at? If you're going 40-50 mph and you need to downshift, is it OK to go to second gear and at which point, if necessary, can you go to first gear? Also, how long can you drive going down a steep grade 7-10 percent in second gear without damaging the transmission in a LD? Do you have to stop and cool off every now and then, e.g. if you're driving for 10 min. in second gear? After a lengthy trip of such driving, do you recommend changing your transmission fluid?

Ron and Sue:
 When we're going down a long grade, we usually downshift to 2nd gear rather than ride the brakes all the way down.  As long as you're not red-lining it, driving in 2nd gear shouldn't hurt your transmission at all.  The Ford Scheduled Maintenance Guide on our 2004 F-450 says to change the transmission fluid every 30,000 miles.  Since we have less than 10,000 miles on our LD right now, we haven't changed our transmission fluid even though we do a lot of traveling in the West and in the mountains.  Unless you overheat your transmission severely, I don't think you need to be worried about changing the fluid more often than recommended (check your Ford Scheduled Maintenance Guide for suggested intervals, since they may be different on your 1997 LD than they are on our 2004 LD).
 Earl says he has shifted down to 2nd gear while at 45 MPH.  If 2nd gear doesn't hold you at a reasonable speed, then it may be necessary to shift down to 1st gear, which we've done from time to time.  You'd probably want to be at 30-35 MPH or less before doing this.
 It is much better to use your transmission for braking when going down hill rather than riding your brakes (which can quickly overheat and burn out your brakes!).

Linda Hylton

2004 Red 23.5' TK

From Hart Mountain Nat'l. Antelope Refuge
N42° 29.888' / W119° 41.341'
See where we are: http://map.datastormusers.com/user2.cfm?user=1167
Linda Hylton
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Using downshifting on steep grades
Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 56523
Wonderful question, part of which I cannot answer (although Lynda has helped out quite well).

Consider this: Brakes are far less expensive than engine/transmission wear.
But engine/transmission's cost far less than personal injury (yours, or the person that you hit).
 As much as possible, save your brakes, you never know when an idiot is going to pull in front of you (or anything else that causes you to apply in a hurry).
 If your brakes are already hot, then they have far less heat absorbtion ability in an emergency application.
On the track, we use the brakes because we can better control the speed (and they are far more powerful), but on the street, I utilize the drivetrain regularly.

$$ or injury?

ken wannabe in SoCal that travels the West on a Motorcycle 'n' a Motel, for now.

Ken Sann
Using downshifting on steep grad
Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 56531
If you are towing, this is even more
 
Quote
important, because the toad is doing no braking (unless you use the LD brakes and activate the toad brakes), and you have the extra weight.

 You will find if you are towing, that you need to downshift more than if you were not towing, since the weight of the toad pushes against the motorhome.
However, with our auxiliary brake setup, the brakes on the toad come on when we downshift, and remain on until a lower speed is attained.  Maybe all auxiliary braking systems don't do this, braking only when the motorhome's brakes are on.

Linda Hylton

2004 Red 23.5' TK

From Hart Mountain Nat'l. Antelope Refuge
N42° 29.888' / W119° 41.341'
See where we are: http://map.datastormusers.com/user2.cfm?user=1167
Linda Hylton
[Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Using downshifting on steep grades
Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 56925
Quote
Linda Hylton 2004 Red 23.5' TK From Hart Mountain Nat'l. Antelope Refuge N42° 29.888' / W119° 41.341' See where we are: http://map.datastormusers.com/user2.cfm?user=1167
Hi Linda,
 We just got a Jeep Liberty that we are going to set it up for towing behind the LD. Can you tell me what tow system you are using? I would like to get what you are using. I somewhat remember the discussions of your system and liked the features. I am too lazy to go back through and search the messages. Thanks for your help.

Terry & Ruby Hunt (Back from a 3000 mile trip and the LD performed great with no problems!)
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Using downshifting on steep grad
Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 56988
Hi Linda,
 We just got a Jeep Liberty that we are going to set it up for towing behind the LD. Can you tell me what tow system you are using? I would like to get what you are using. I somewhat remember the discussions of your system and liked the features. I am too lazy to go back through and search the messages. Thanks for your help.


 We are using the ReadyBrute tow bars with the integrated ReadyBrake braking system -- www.readybrake.com .
 On the "Price List," the setup we got is RB-9075 which includes everything except for the base plate.  We got the entire setup, including the base plate, installed for just over $2,000.  Price was our main reason for selecting this setup, but we also knew that we didn't want one of the big box brakes that you have to take out each time you want to drive the toad, and put back in -- and adjust -- each time you're ready to tow.  We also didn't want a brake system that tapped into the motorhomes brake lines.
Hooking up the ReadyBrake is a simple matter of attaching one line at the same time that you're hooking up the toad to the motorhome.

Linda Hylton

2004 Red 23.5' TK

From Mountain View RV Park
Joseph, OR

See where we are: http://map.datastormusers.com/user2.cfm?user=1167
Linda Hylton