Another question July 23, 2005, 12:40:51 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56030I keep reading about starting the engine to charge the batteries. If one has a generator, as we will, won't that charge the batteries when dry camping.? It did in our previous motorhome.
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Another question Reply #2 – July 23, 2005, 02:27:46 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56037Yes, it will. However, most generators charge at only 10 amps per hour. If, for example, your 100 ampere-hour rated battery is 50% discharged it will take 5 hours of running the generator to get it back to full charge. And that is assuming that you aren't using any 12-volt lights/appliances at the same time. I don't know the amp rating for the 6-volt batteries in the current LD's, but I'm sure it's more than 100-amps. That would make the situation even worse at 50% discharge. Compare the puny 10-amps from the generator to your vehicle alternator which can charge at 10 to 13 times that rate. All depends on the situation. Using the first example, what would take 5 hours (a really long time) with the generator would take only 23 minutes with a 130-amp alternator. I realize this is over-simplifying it.Dick
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Another question Reply #3 – July 23, 2005, 03:05:18 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56040Great answer! I never realized there was a difference. We did notice we didn't get much charge out of the generator when we used to refresh the batteries. I think we wil test that out when we get our new LD. Thanks, Cindy
Re: Another question Reply #4 – July 23, 2005, 04:27:37 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56042QuoteI keep reading about starting the engine to charge the batteries. If one has a generator, as Quotewe will, won't that charge the batteries when dry camping.? It did in our previousQuotemotorhome. Cindy:The old electrical converters had two channels - one for charging batteries and one for all other 12 volt service. It was these that had limited charging power. The new ones put out a maximum 45 amperes - what is not needed by the coach goes into the battery (if it will take that rate). Hence, in the old days we were told to start the chassis engine for a fast charge. Even then, you didn't get much juice while idling, and if you wanted a fast charge, you had to sit with your foot on the accelerator. The new systems do not need this.By the way, no charging system will charge lead-lead acid batteries than their electro-motive charging curve allows - this is basic physics. Above this, the battery voltage rises and amperes go into disassociating the hydrogen and oxygen - this is why all converters limit their output voltage - it is the app[lied voltage which determines the charge rate. Converters that allow an aqualizing charge let the voltage go higher (when directed to the equalizing mode) so that the battery deliberately gasses, to drive poisons off the plates. But this has to be gentle - let it get out of control and it just bubbles all the material from the plates and shorts out the cells from the junk on the bottom.Happy TrailsGus Weber
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Another question Reply #5 – July 23, 2005, 06:16:17 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56045The old electrical converters had two channels - one for charging batteries and one for all other 12 volt service. It was these that had limited charging power. The new ones put out a maximum 45 amperes - what is not needed by the coach goes into the battery (if it will take that rate).Gus WeberYou are right Gus. I should have asked Cindy the age of her coach before I gave her my answer. The newer converters are much different from the old ones. The new ones are very sophisticated battery chargers. You can buy larger output capacities, but the LD comes with a 45-amp unit.Dick
[Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Another question Reply #6 – July 25, 2005, 12:03:38 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56098Speaking of new converters, I have like-new one for sale that I removed from my 2005 LD. I would sell it for 50% of new (whatever that is) + $15 for shipping to the lower 48. It is a 4 wire connection. This converter was removed after about 1 month use as it is no longer needed when installing a "whole house" inverter/charger such as the ProSine 2000
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Another question Reply #7 – July 29, 2005, 12:42:50 am Yahoo Message Number: 56218Cindy wrote:Quote? I keep reading about starting the engine to charge the batteries. If one has a generator, as Quotewe will, won't that charge the batteries when dry camping.? It did in our previous motorhome." Cindy, if you don't have solar charging, then there are four ways to charge your house batterys without the use of an external charger. These are: 1) while driving your rig; 2) while idling you engine; 3) while connected to shorepower; and 4) using your generator. Of these methods, driving you rig is the fastest. You should be able to get a fair amount of charge into the batterys in a couple of hours and a nearly full charge in 3 or 4 hours. The next fastest method is by idling your engine. This is slower than by driving because the engine is running at lower RPM and thus the alternator is putting out less current. Recently, after 5 days of dry-camping my batterys were pretty low. I idled the engine for ninety minutes and got another two days of (low usage) use out of them. I probably put about 25% of full charge back into them. The next fastest way to charge your house batterys is by being connected to shorepower. This is quite slow with the OEM converter/charger you probably have. Even after 24 continuous hours they may not be fully charged. The least efficient way to charge your house batterys is to run your generator. You generator will charge your batterys in exactly the same amount of time as shorepower, but who is going to run their generator that long?What is the solution? I'll tell you what I did. I changed the OEM converter/charger for a model with much higher amperage capability and with what is called true 3-stage charging. There are various models available around two hundred dollars. It is an easy install requiring only a couple of screwdrivers, and it replaces the OEM unit and fits right in its place. It will nearly fully charge my house batterys in a couple of hours of generator run time. If you do have solar, a nice scheme is to charge your batterys from about 50% of full charge, (that means your batterys are about as discharged as you should let them become), to about 80% charge which will take about an hour. Then let the solar panel work the rest of the solar day topping up the batterys. BTW, another benifit of the newer converter/charger is that the dc power they put out is fully filtered, whereas in the OEM charger it is not. At least in the Magnatek 6300 series charger it is not, and that is a very common OEM charger.Tom Johnston, 2000 Red 23.5 TK, Whidbey Island WA, weather: warm but not hot, and gorgeous.
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Another question Reply #8 – July 29, 2005, 04:35:13 am Yahoo Message Number: 56220Tom, Which converter did you get? I've been thinking about getting a new converter for our 2001 RB. I have a good 3 stage charger using solar but when we are unable to use the solar, it takes forever to charge up using the generator. Jonna, now we are cold! picky! picky! Currently in San Francisco, out in the Ingleside where the fog never burns off.
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Another question Reply #9 – July 29, 2005, 03:09:33 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56246Jonna wrote:QuoteTom, Which converter did you get? I've been thinking about getting a new converter for our 2001 RB. I have a good 3 stage charger using solar but when we are unable to use the solar, it takes forever to charge up using the generator. Hi Jonna The converter charger I settled on is the WFCO 55amp model. Go to bestconverter.com for all the info you need, and best prices as well. I just installed mine three weeks ago, but I am very satisfied with it so far. Since you have been using your Link 10 for some time now, you probably have a really good idea of your electrical system capabilities, as well as your personal power usage while boondocking. If you have nominal solar, ie one or two panels, this converter can much enhance your charging capabilities if you don't mind running your generator for maybe an hour in the morning prior to the solar day, especially if it doesn't appear to be a good solar day, or you are parked in some shade. As I mentioned, if you run your house batterys down to 50%, then run your generator in the morning for a short time to bring them up to a higher state of charge, say 75 or 80%, by the end of the solar day you may well have nearly 100% charge on them. I just bought a solar system from Am solar, including the Helitrope 22B controller. I'm starting the installation today. In total, I think it will make a very good 12 volt system, without devoting my entire roof to solar panels. Tom Johnston, Whidbey Island WA, sunshine and 75 degrees. Come on up!
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Another question Reply #10 – July 29, 2005, 06:19:55 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56254Tom, Thanks for the info and the link. That's exactly the info I needed. You are right, we are fine
Re: Another question (WFCO 55) Reply #11 – July 30, 2005, 03:23:07 am Yahoo Message Number: 56263Jonna,I've been looking at the same charger as an upgrade for the 26.5 RK we take delivery of in mid September. There is one thing you might want to take a look at in addition to the upgraded charger and that is upgrading the charging cables.Depending on who you read or listen to the maximum permissible voltage drop for DC charging is either 1% or 3%. Moeller, in his book "RV Electrical Systems", is emphatic that the voltage drop be 1% or less when charging. When you consider a 3% drop at 14.4 volts (the gassing point for flooded cell batteries like T-105's) equates to about a 0.43 volt voltage drop and a 1% drop equates to a 1.4 volt voltage drop, I can see Moeller's point because the difference between a dead battery and a fully charged battery is less than one volt. Also for consideration, per Barre in his book "Managing 12 Volts", reducing the voltage below the 14.4 volt gassing point reduces the current flow to the battery. In the bulk charging stage the WFC0 55 puts out 55 amps at 14.4 volts during the bulk charging stage...The 55 amps at 14.4 volts is ideal for charging your T-105's because it is between the 20% to 25% maximum amp capacity of your battery bank. As the ideal percentage rate suggested by Barre this will allow you to achieve a fast 70% to 75% state of charge when the battery bank has been discharged to 50% of capacity (see Barre, page 39). This would be ideal for giving your solar panels a head start in the morning. However, with a voltage drop, the charging party will slow down. Here's why this could be a problem with the stock LD charging wires...LD uses 6ga stranded copper for the positive and negative charging runs between the converter and batteries. In the RK the wire run is about 8 feet one way. This equates to a voltage drop of 4% at 55 amps. (See the link below for a calculated estimate of voltage drop at 12 volts unless you want to grind through the equations in Moeller's book.) This means, at least with respect to the RK, one will not be getting nearly the charging power one paid for unless the gauge of wire is increased. Luckily, it looks like, from the picture of the WFCO 55 and WFCO 45, both will accept 2ga wire. At 8 feet with 2ga wire I'd still be looking at about a 1.7% voltage drop at 55 amps or about a 0.8% voltage drop at 45 amps in the RK....Much better.I'm not sure what the one way wire run length is in the RB nor how difficult it would be to pull heavier gauge wire...But it might be something you want to look into.JMHO,Jay http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htmA note for RK owners or wannabes that want to know: It is fairly easy to pull heavier wire from the converter or from the rear driver's side storage area to the batteries (for those contemplating a big inverter/charger in the storage space). The RK has a an almost chase like area under the shower and bath that would be relatively easy to fish wire through to the battery box. LD already does this.
Re: Another question (WFCO 55) Reply #12 – July 30, 2005, 04:31:47 am Yahoo Message Number: 56264Wow Jay, you have a much better grasp of 12v electrical stuff than I do. I read your post a bunch of times and I think I understand it. My guesstimate is that there is about an 8' run between the converter and the batteries in a RB as well. It goes from the dinette seat to under the stove and I believe the wire runs down the drivers side from the batteries, through the wiring chase from the closet across to under the refrigerator and into the convertor. If it is just a matter of it taking longer to get from 50% to 70%, and assuming that it would still take a lot less time with the 55amp convertor than with the current one which I think is 10 or 15 amps, then I could live with that. If it means that it drops below the 14.4 volts when charging and thus doesn't fully charge the batteries (for instance if the rig were plugged in) then that would be a bigger drawback. What I liked about this convertor is that it fits right into the spot that the current 7345 is without any rerouting of wires or other modifications. Even so, I was thinking that installing this was probably outside our abilities. If new wire has to be run as well, I'm pretty darn sure we won't be doing it ourselves.I'll have to read some more and think on this some more as well. Jonna, in Petaluma CA at the Elk's club until Monday. High 70's days but chilly at night.
Re: Another question (WFCO 55) Reply #13 – July 30, 2005, 07:17:43 am Yahoo Message Number: 56269Jonna, I'm not Jay, but it seems to me the smaller wire could only slow down the charging, not prevent charging to a full charge. The equation is V=IR, where V=the voltage drop across the wire, and R is the resistance of the wire. The idea is that you drop the resistance R with a larger wire which causes a smaller voltage drop during charging at a given amperage I.On the other hand, as the battery charges and the current I approaches zero (i.e. the battery is fully charged), the voltage drop approaches zero as well, regardless of the resistance of the wire. Thus a smaller wire will still come to the same voltage on the battery, it will just take longer.This is a physics view. The engineers
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Another question (WFCO 55) Reply #14 – July 30, 2005, 11:18:32 am Yahoo Message Number: 56274On Sat, 2005-07-30 at 07:22 +0000, jreitz2001 wrote: QuoteWhen you consider a 3% drop at 14.4 volts (the gassing point for flooded cell batteries like T-105's) equates to about a 0.43 volt voltage drop and a 1% drop equates to a 1.4 volt voltage drop, ... Jay, Simple arithmetic says that 1% of 14.4 volts is .144 volts and not, as you say, 1.4 volts. 1.4 volts would make it more like 10% drop.Alex '05MB
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Another question (WFCO 55) Reply #15 – July 30, 2005, 12:06:20 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56275Jonna wrote:Even so, I was thinking that installing this was Quoteprobably outside our abilities. If new wire has to be run as well, I'm pretty darn sure we won't be doing it ourselves.I'll have to read some more and think on this some more as well. Jonna, in Petaluma CA at the Elk's club until Monday. High 70's days but chilly at night. Jonna, this install is dead easy. And as smart as you obviously are, you can do it even it it wasn't so easy. The voltage at the battery is 14.6 during bulk charge as measured by my Link 10. IMHO, the best course of action is to install the unit and monitor its operation. If you still think it needs bigger wire, you can parallel the existing AWG 6 with another one the same size. Even that would be pretty easy. Never pay to have something done you can do yourself. The big payoff is not the few bucks you save, but what you learn and the self-satisfaction! BTW, even though this unit is capable of 55 amps, this highest I have seen it put into my batterys during bulk charge is about 45 amp. I think the batterys would have to be in an overly discharaged state to accept 55 amps. Mind you, I'm not actually recommending this unit. These things have to be thought out by each LD owner herself. I read Barre, and had con- versations with one of the WFCO designers, a Trojan engineer, and Greg Holder at Am Solar. I'm also a double E myself. So I believe in my case it was thought out :>) TJ
Re: Another question (WFCO 55) Reply #16 – July 30, 2005, 08:04:31 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56291Jonna,I too like the simplicity of the installation without wire changes.I've also thought of one thing that I neglected to discuss in my previous post that I also need to research a bit deeper myself...I believe the LD has 50 amp 12 volt fuse/breakers on the positive and negative side of the converter/charger circuit for catastrophe protection. This fuse sizing is, I believe, based on the 45 amp output of the 7345 converter. To go with the WFCO 55 at 55 amps output, I think we'd need to go with a larger fuse, say 60 amp or wherever the next larger size availability falls...I'm hoping that Bumper, Steve, Larry or one of the other experienced LD electrical customizers can jump in and enlighten us a little here... Maybe the thing to do is go with the WFCO 45. The 45 amp output only sees a 2.5% voltage drop with the 6ga wire. Also this way, if I am correct about the fuses, they wouldn't need to be changed. And the end result should still be better than the 7345. The nominal output voltage of the 7345 is 13.8 volts less the 0.36 volts from wire loss. The WFCO 45's 14.4 volt output less the 0.36 volts for wire in its bulk charge stage should allow a faster morning bulk charge.Regards,Jay
[Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Another question (WFCO 55) Reply #17 – July 30, 2005, 08:08:30 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56292--- In lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com, Bit StringerQuote Jay,Simple arithmetic says that 1% of 14.4 volts is .144 volts and not, as you say, 1.4 volts. 1.4 volts would make it more like 10% drop. Call this a "whoops" of misplaced a decimal. I still hope the meaning of the post was clear. If not, please feel free to correct my grammer too.Jay
[Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Another question (WFCO 55) Reply #18 – July 30, 2005, 09:05:23 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56293Hi TJ, Sure pays to talk to more than one expert. When I talked to the owner of bestconverter.com he said that the 8 foot run of 6ga was marginal for the WFCO 55. But if your Link 10 is measuring 14.6 volts at the battery with an 8 foot run, the empirical data makes this a closed deal for me assuming your LD also has an 8 foot run. And "da!". I was so busy trying to read the fine print about maximum wire size acceptance on the website picture that I failed to notice that there is a connection for paralleling a second run of 6ga wire.Do you have any idea why the converter is only putting out 45 amps? Related to this and before I read your follow-up to Joanna I had responded with this further concern as follows…"I've also thought of one thing that I neglected to discuss in my previous post that I also need to research a bit deeper myself...I believe the LD has 50 amp 12 volt fuse/breakers on the positive and negative side of the converter/charger circuit for catastrophe protection. This fuse sizing is, I believe, based on the 45 amp output of the 7345 converter. To go with the WFCO 55 at 55 amps output, I think we'd need to go with a larger fuse, say 60 amp or wherever the next larger size availability falls...I'm hoping that Bumper, Steve, Larry or one of the other experienced LD electrical customizers can jump in and enlighten us a little here..."Do you have any insight about this? If the WFCO 55 is only putting out 45 amps by design, maybe it is a moot point. But I'd appreciate any insights you or any of the experienced LD electrical customizers have about the topic.Regards,Jay
[Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Another question (WFCO 55) Reply #19 – July 30, 2005, 09:19:16 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56295TJ,TJ wrote: "BTW, even though this unit is capable of 55 amps, this highest I have seen it put into my batterys during bulk charge is about 45 amp. I think the batterys would have to be in an overly discharaged state to accept 55 amps." Must be my month for missing the ovious. Wife would suggest century. Would still appreciate your insights on the rest of the related question in previous post.Jay
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Another question (WFCO 55) Reply #20 – July 30, 2005, 09:44:00 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56297The most important thing to remember is that the fuse is sized to protect the wiring behind it. If you do not replace / add a parallel conductor to the existing wiring, DO NOT increase the fuse size. If you do not blow the existing fuse / circuit breaker, the wiring is OK...if you do blow it, you need to not only increase the fuse / breaker size, but you also need to increase the capacity of the wiring. The only other thing to consider with wire size is the voltage drop of the run which is based not only on the size of the wire, but the distance of the run.Rich 2000 MB Birch Bay, WA
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Another question (WFCO 55) Reply #21 – July 30, 2005, 09:59:28 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56298Hi Jay "Sure pays to talk to more than one expert. When I talked to the owner of bestconverter.com he said that the 8 foot run of 6ga was marginal for the WFCO 55. But if your Link 10 is measuring 14.6 volts at the battery with an 8 foot run, the empirical data makes this a closed deal for me assuming your LD also has an 8 foot run. " Yes, Randy. Say Hi to him for me if you call him again ;>). Our 23.5 TK has a one-way run of less than 8 feet. But as I advised Jonna, I would go ahead and install the WFCO 55, and see how it works. I'm thinking it will work fine. If not, then double up the AWG 6 run. Admittedly, thats easy for me to say with my short and direct wire run. It would be, of course, more difficult in other rigs. But it just may not be necessary. Certainly the AWG 6 wire will handle the current safely. "Do you have any idea why the converter is only putting out 45 amps" Yes. The current anything draws is a matter of its internal resistance and the applied voltage. A battery is no different. You could hook up a charger which had a capability of charging at 1000 amps, and if it applied the same voltage to my batterys as the WFCO 55, and the batterys were in the same state of charge, the charging current would still be 45 amps. People often say, "they will only draw what they need". "...I believe the LD has 50 amp 12 volt fuse/breakers on the positive and negative side of the converter/charger circuit for catastrophe protection. This fuse sizing is, I believe, based on the 45 amp output of the 7345 converter. To go with the WFCO 55 at 55 amps output, I think we'd need to go with a larger fuse, say 60 amp or wherever the next larger size availability falls..." On my rig its a circuit breaker located behind the converter/charger. I was not sure of the amperage but I would have guessed 50 amp. You can change that out if you want. Personally, my approach to such things is: lets first see if it needs changing. If the c/b doesn't pop then why worry about it?"Do you have any insight about this? If the WFCO 55 is only putting out 45 amps by design, maybe it is a moot point."The WFCO will put out 55 amps when your batterys want 55 amps. If your batterys would accept more than 55 amps, too bad, thats all they are getting . Hope this helps. I'll be glad to be of further assistance if possible.TJ
[Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Another question (WFCO 55) Reply #22 – July 30, 2005, 11:25:57 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56300Call this a "whoops" of misplaced a decimal. I still hope the meaning of the post was clear. If not, please feel free to correct my grammer too.Jay Reminds me of a joke some Bounder told me:An out-of-state LD wannabe is passing through a small rural Texas town, and notices an LD in a driveway. He stops, goes up to the door, and rings the bell. A little girl answers, and he asks to speak to her parents. "They was in but now they has done gone out a spell," she replies. "I figure they's comin' back directly, lessen maw's gabbin' a bunch." Amused, he asks "Little girl, where's your grammar?" "She's upstairs," she replies.Will PS This has nothing to do with the subject, but I was starting to get a headache trying to understand the technical stuff.
[Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Another question (WFCO 55) Reply #23 – July 30, 2005, 11:54:47 pm Yahoo Message Number: 56301First I want to say how much I LOVE this forum! I've learned so much here, it is staggering to remember how little I knew just 4 years ago when we started this great adventure. I am still awed by the depth of knowledge that can be found in this great bunch of people! In this instance, I've greatly benefited by info from Tom, Barry and Jay. Thanks guys! I've read and re-read your posts and done some research online. We have our satellite set up here at the Elk's Club, we have hookups, and a weekend to kill before our appointments on Monday. Up front I'll say that electrical stuff is my weakest area in RV info, well... I'm pretty weak on the mechanical stuff too but Mimi knows a lot about that. She fades out on me with electical though, I'm on my own.So here is what I think I know and some probably pretty dumb questions. We have the Magnatek 7345 converter, first used by LD in late 2001. Looking it up, it has a max output of 45amps. Larger than I thought and larger than Tom's original 6300 model. It is only a 2 stage charger though and max volts is 14.0 volts at no load, 13.2 volts at full load. I'm unsure what they mean by no load and full load? My guess is that if the system had no draws on it that is no load, full load would be how much of a draw? I don't know. Right now, with the batteries full, plugged into power, fans and computers plugged in; our Xantrax says the battery is getting 13.7 volts. Too high for a float from what I've read but perhaps ok since we are also drawing on it. Since we live in our rig, it's difficult and unlikely that we ever have a zero load. The highest volt reading I can recall seeing is about 14.2 and that is from the alternator. Although the WFCO 55 has only 10 amp higher output than our 7345, that is not what would make it faster and in fact we may never use its full output. What it does have is a 3 stage charger that will push 14.4 volts to the batteries when in boost mode. It will also float at 13.2 volts when we are plugged in for long periods, which will boil off less water from the batteries. It will also provide cleaner output which is probably good, clean is always good my mother said.Have I got this right? Anyone care to guess how long it would take the WFCO55 to take our 2 T-105's from a 50% discharge to a 75% or 80% charge? Right now, using the generator it can take up to 3 hours to get there from a 60% discharge. That's the lowest I recall having to use the gen for. I'd like to get from 55% to 75% in an hour, is that possible?Jonna in Tortuga, 2001 Teal RB
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Another question (WFCO 55) Reply #24 – July 31, 2005, 12:51:20 am Yahoo Message Number: 56302Jonna asked:"Anyone care to guess how long it would take the WFCO55 to take our 2 T-105's from a 50% discharge to a 75% or 80% charge?" Well, this isn't too hard. You have two T105 batterys which gives you 220 amperehours when 100% charged. Less as the batterys get older, but lets say 220AH. A 55% charge is .55 x 220 = 121 AH. An 75% charge is .75 x 220 = 165 AH. 165 - 121 = 44AH. So you must put 44AH into your batterys to take them from 55% to 75%. If your charger puts out 44 amps, you would have to charge them about 1 hour. And I have seen that that is about what this charger will do. What a three stage charger will do, and your 7300 will not do, is bulk charge. Your 7300 will begin to reduce its voltage when the battery voltage begins to rise, which is very quickly. The three stage charger in the bulk mode will really pour the juice to your batterys and will not relent just because your battery voltage rises. In this stage the charger continues to charge your batterys at high current until gassing voltage is reached. This occurs somewhere between 60 and 80% (Barre, pg 36). My SWAG on this is that it will happen around 75%. The 3-stage charger will began to reduce charging current when gassing occurs. This is an excellent time to turn off your generator and let your solar panels go to work. However, use your Link 10 for its intended purpose, and actually find out what percentage of charge your charging current starts being reduced. Thats when to cut your generator off as it will then began to lose its efficiency. TJ ps If you need to run another wire, come on up and I'll run it for you. In turn you can do some hard stuff like teach me about internet by cell phone, or computer stuff, or digital photo stuff ;>).
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