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Topic: DIY - Rot, Repairs, and Renovations! (Read 1271 times) previous topic - next topic
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Re: DIY - Rot, Repairs, and Renovations!
Reply #25
Hi Ron - We just finished putting the tire cover on and used a 4 inch hanger bolt. Any thoughts on that?

Ron is concerned that the SS bolt might loosen and spin with the acorn nut on it. The bolt needs to be secured so the head cannot spin. A carriage head bolt can be used with washers and a nut to lock the bolt in place. This assumes the wood the carriage bolt is passing through is thick enough to allow embedding of the carriage head.https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/albums/72177720298445262
There are alternatives if this solution will not work.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: DIY - Rot, Repairs, and Renovations!
Reply #26
Hi Heather;  I had to look up a hanger bolt to make sure what that was.  If you used an acorn nut on the end to hold the tire cover on, it might just unscrew from the wood behind it and come out completely once when you try to open that cover.
    When I got the TST 507 TPMS, I have a cap sensor on the spare, so I don't open that compartment often now.   RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB

 
Re: DIY - Rot, Repairs, and Renovations!
Reply #27
My partner, Brad, and I purchased our '99 RB in September, well aware of its laundry list of needed repairs. But with low miles and a great price, we decided it would be worth the effort in the end. So far, we have resolved problems with the generator, awning, leveling jacks, taillights, furnace, passenger side mirror, rotted/loose entry step, and a few of the cracks in the end caps. We also upgraded the radio to a double DIN stereo with Apple CarPlay. And in addition to repairs, we dream of renovating the interior and customizing the space as we plan to live out of our LD full-time.

The remaining issues:
1. water heater won't stay lit
2. marker lights need new housings
3. water damage in the rear passenger-side storage compartment
4. wood rot in the back wall

We have replaced the water heater's thermostat and circuit board. The water tank is empty, so our next idea is to fill it in hopes that it's not staying lit due to a safety feature. We have new housings for the marker lights that have yet be installed. We've removed the rotted wood from the storage compartment and exposed the aluminum. It has several holes we plan to fix up with aluminum patches and JB Weld Steel Epoxy. The wood framework isn't in the best condition either and will need at least partially replaced. From there, we aren't sure what to layer on top but considering flex seal or something similar. I'll attach photos so you can see what we are working with. Opinions and ideas are encouraged!

Now for the dreaded back wall. We've seen other LD'ers get through this tedious restoration and although it was helpful to read and gain a visual beforehand (thank you, Cor2man), the project was still incredibly daunting. So we have avoided it up until a few days ago. We removed the spare tire compartment, ladder, lower half of both end caps, and mid section of paneling - in that order. Chisel/putty knife, hammer, and a lot of patience. Yesterday, we began the process of removing the bumper by driving out the bolts connected to the body. It wasn't fun. We think our next step is getting underneath and cutting through the adhesive that's holding it to the paneling/body. Then remove the bolts connected to the chassis with an impact wrench. Once the bumper is off, we will be able to remove the lowest section of paneling. And then out comes the window so we can reseal it thoroughly and replace the gasket. We suspect our leaks have come from the end caps and/or rear window. I asked the previous owner and neither has ever been resealed. We know we will need a LOT of sealant and adhesive for this project and would love your two cents on what products to use. We'd like to stay budget friendly, but it's hard to know what instances splurging becomes necessary.

We plan to replace as much wood as necessary and possible. With that being said neither my partner or I have experience with these types of repairs. But we do believe we have enough logic and plenty of resources to get the job done ourselves. I will attach photos all along the way. Posting this thread for fun, for awareness, and for your assistance. So feel free to enjoy, learn, and chime in!



My partner, Brad, and I purchased our '99 RB in September, well aware of its laundry list of needed repairs. But with low miles and a great price, we decided it would be worth the effort in the end. So far, we have resolved problems with the generator, awning, leveling jacks, taillights, furnace, passenger side mirror, rotted/loose entry step, and a few of the cracks in the end caps. We also upgraded the radio to a double DIN stereo with Apple CarPlay. And in addition to repairs, we dream of renovating the interior and customizing the space as we plan to live out of our LD full-time.

The remaining issues:
1. water heater won't stay lit
2. marker lights need new housings
3. water damage in the rear passenger-side storage compartment
4. wood rot in the back wall

We have replaced the water heater's thermostat and circuit board. The water tank is empty, so our next idea is to fill it in hopes that it's not staying lit due to a safety feature. We have new housings for the marker lights that have yet be installed. We've removed the rotted wood from the storage compartment and exposed the aluminum. It has several holes we plan to fix up with aluminum patches and JB Weld Steel Epoxy. The wood framework isn't in the best condition either and will need at least partially replaced. From there, we aren't sure what to layer on top but considering flex seal or something similar. I'll attach photos so you can see what we are working with. Opinions and ideas are encouraged!

Now for the dreaded back wall. We've seen other LD'ers get through this tedious restoration and although it was helpful to read and gain a visual beforehand (thank you, Cor2man), the project was still incredibly daunting. So we have avoided it up until a few days ago. We removed the spare tire compartment, ladder, lower half of both end caps, and mid section of paneling - in that order. Chisel/putty knife, hammer, and a lot of patience. Yesterday, we began the process of removing the bumper by driving out the bolts connected to the body. It wasn't fun. We think our next step is getting underneath and cutting through the adhesive that's holding it to the paneling/body. Then remove the bolts connected to the chassis with an impact wrench. Once the bumper is off, we will be able to remove the lowest section of paneling. And then out comes the window so we can reseal it thoroughly and replace the gasket. We suspect our leaks have come from the end caps and/or rear window. I asked the previous owner and neither has ever been resealed. We know we will need a LOT of sealant and adhesive for this project and would love your two cents on what products to use. We'd like to stay budget friendly, but it's hard to know what instances splurging becomes necessary.

We plan to replace as much wood as necessary and possible. With that being said neither my partner or I have experience with these types of repairs. But we do believe we have enough logic and plenty of resources to get the job done ourselves. I will attach photos all along the way. Posting this thread for fun, for awareness, and for your assistance. So feel free to enjoy, learn, and chime in!




You guys did an amazing job! Are the aluminum panels just flat sheet or is there a lip/step pressed on for the overlap?
1999 MB, 7.3L PowerStroke