Driver side running board September 12, 2021, 01:32:53 pm I needed to quickly step up on my driver side running board to avoid oncoming traffic, and the step failed. Just sagged a bit from the outside corner. As others have experienced, I have waterproofing failure, followed by wood rot on standard lumber that supports the step. I do not understand why the factory would not use treated wood in at least a few key spots on the bottom of RV.I ripped out all rotted wood and sawed off the bolts. I'm now need advice on how to rebuild. It just seems like there would not be enough support as the mounting wood block is primarily just sitting on a 1/4 inch ledge and I guess bolted into wood further up on the outside corner. (by wood block I mean the block the fiberglass step that two bolts run through to secure). This block must be firmly stable as a mounting surface to feed through the two bolts. How can I make the wood block stable by just waterproofing or 3M 5200? * The wood mounting block could be screwed in to additional wood that runs vertical. (close to side front end cap area)? Although in my case, a portion of this wood is also rotted. I guess a longer bolt after ripping out all rot. I have to remove end cap for access for a complete rebuild. Only an inch or two of soft wood so I thing a long wood screw would work? * Closer to the door I do not see anything to secure the wood block. Just glue and the edge of body panel. One idea is to secure the wood block to the frame. There is even a nice mounting point that seems to line up just right. Not sure if this is a good idea? See pictures for better description. I might will use treated wood rather than what is pictured (very dense fence rail with water proof seal which feels strong). I assume to get better access the entire running board can be further removed with screws under the door area?Any rebuild advice would be appreciated. UPDATE: I ripped out remaining rot piece of wood that was in the corner end cap area (I think this is what the mount block was mounted to). The remaining wood piece is sound at the end cap. I cut the white post board. (very tough piece of wood with a water coat seal). A this point I have a game plan. I just need to fit white board in and screw it into existing wood near end cap. And on the other end, mount into the frame which is pre drilled from factory as in attached picture. I would probably need to drill one new hole in the fiberglass running board to accurately hit my smaller mounting service. And then water proof everything for good measure with flex seal or some preferred water proof. The beauty is I do not need to further disassemble. Risk is it might not be a good idea to mount white wood post on frame? If frame moves under driving conditions, I don't think it would be much. I could figure a floating mount. (larger hole and rubber washers). Thanks, LarryD
Re: Driver side running board Reply #1 – September 12, 2021, 10:06:33 pm Hi Larry D; I've dealt with this on both sides already. I had a piece of wood, that the mounting screws, carriage bolt heads, that had pulled into the wood. I put a piece of steel angle across the upper platform to spread the load over a larger surface. I used 5/16" stainless bolts, with a lock washer between the head and the steel angle. Then another piece of galvanized steel angle at the bottom under the aft end of the running board. So far that has worked. The factory should use pressure treated wood for anything underneath, or something like Trex. I just tightened up the bolts holding my step on. Sank the head on one about 1/2" since that's how much more thread is showing on the screw. The back near the rear bumper shows exposed wood after the undercoating wears through. The sandblast effect tears that area up. I use a wood preservative (copper napthenate) then flat black spray paint, then spray on asphalt undercoating. Messy but necessary. In my model year I had plain wood 2x2's supporting the rear mudflaps. I replaced one with pressure treated and sealed wood. I am concerned that my tank supports, generator supports, propane tank supports, and chassis to body screws may be loosening, although I haven't detected any looseness there. RonB 2 Likes
Re: Driver side running board Reply #2 – September 12, 2021, 10:46:52 pm Quote from: Larame SRT - September 12, 2021, 01:32:53 pm I do not understand why the factory would not use treated wood in at least a few key spots on the bottom of RV. How can I make the woodblock stable by just waterproofing or 3M 5200? I assume to get better access the entire running board can be further removed with screws under the door area? UPDATE: I ripped out remaining rot piece of wood that was in the corner end cap area (I think this is what the mount block was mounted to). The remaining wood piece is sound at the end cap. I cut the white post board. (very tough piece of wood with a water coat seal). A this point I have a game plan. I just need to fit white board in and screw it into existing wood near end cap. And on the other end, mount into the frame which is pre drilled from factory as in attached picture. If frame moves under driving conditions, I don't think it would be much. I could figure a floating mount. (larger hole and rubber washers). Treated wood in the steps and at the bottom of the rear wall would be good upgrades.3M 5200 traps water that gets into things, I would use a wood preservative or a paint undercoating primer to seal the wood, especially the end grain, it will allow water vapor to escape.As tempting as it is to run the while board to the frame, don't do it, the body is mounted on the frame using long bolts and thick rubber spacers, it's a construction method called 'body on frame'. It allows the coach to move independently of the frame, absorbing impacts and reducing twisting stresses. The keyword here is move.The whiteboard will become detached from either the step or the frame, whichever is the weakest point. It may not happen on smooth streets but drive a section of torn-up pavement or a bumpy dirt road, this is going to twist things up and bang, it broken.If the frame was unibody construction, you would be able to do thisThe outside of the step needs support from the framing member coming from above, running down the inside of the cap. That is where you need to concentrate, it carries a lot of the weight, it looks like you have already this though.I would probably use some type of steel strapping or bracket to connect the whiteboard to the wood framing and the cap.Our 2003's driver step became saggy, the result of our home sprinklers. The fiberglass-covered board, that runs front to back under the step, was heavily rotted, and the thin fiberglass cover was falling apart. The fiberglass sealed the wood and didn't allow water to escape. A series of small drain holes would help reduce the possibility of this happening.The old fiberglass and rot were carved away and a 2 X 2 replacement was fitted and glued in with marine epoxy. The repaired wood was covered with thicker fiberglass cloth and saturated with marine epoxy. Drain holes were drilled after the epoxy was cured.Once cured, the inside edge of the step was glued to the body with 3M 5200 injected into the gapsOccasionally seen are steps where water trusion or an accident has caused the fiberglass to delaminate resulting in a soggy step.To fix it on the cheap, a 3/4'plywood board can be cut to fit the recess under the step. Before the plywood is glued in place with polyurethane, a few 1/4" holes were drilled into the fiberglass areas with delamination and several syringe fulls of slow-cure marine epoxy were injected into the holes, the polyurethane-coated plywood is quickly pressed in place and held up with a rolling floor jack. Several #12 stainless steel, round head screws, with washers and nuts, can be installed, bolting the step and plywood together during the cure.Larry 3 Likes
Re: Driver side running board Reply #3 – September 13, 2021, 12:58:48 pm Ron & Larry,Thanks so much for taking the time to give me some clarified direction. Having read a good many of LarryW posts, I had a feeling it was not a good idea to tie the step support into the frame. To really get access to rebuild, I think I'm going to have to remove the corner E-Cap. LarryD
Topic: Driver side running board (Read 224 times)
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Topic: Driver side running board (Read 224 times)
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