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Self-coolant change tips
Hello all,

This week I just completed a coolant change in my '06 LD using the excellent procedure outlined here about 3 years ago by Terry Burnes: Lazy person's coolant change

In the course of doing this I learned a few things and made a few mistakes for those who might endeavor to do this themselves
in the future:

  • My '06 LD coolant looked surprisingly clean after all these years (I only have (24k miles on the coach).  I'm sure that someone, probably Larry, will tell me that this is not the accurate gauge of the state of my coolant and that I should have been monitoring it with test strips and he probably is right but it sure looks the same as what I ended up with and the end of the procedure.
  • During each draining cycle (see Terry's procedure) to basically dilute the coolant down to almost zero, I simply ran the engine at rpm for at least 20 minutes, letting the engine heat up to make sure that the coolant and added distilled water thoroughly mixed. One additional tip that I picked up was to make sure that your dash heater is pushing heat to ensure there are no pockets of air in the engine.
  • My Bigfoot levelers came in very handy allowing me to raise the front of the coach allowing me to easily slide a five gallon bucket underneath the radiator drain plug to capture the fluid.  However, to ensure no spillage, I bought a smaller version of Larry's suggested concrete mixing bucket and placed the 5 gallon bucket in that AND also bought some 3/8" ID vinyl tubing and attached it to the nipple below the radiator drain plug with a hose clamp and this is where all the fluid drained into the bucket. At the end of the day, I had three five gallon buckets sealed with leak-proof lids (from home-depot) which were hauled off to the local hazard materials recycle center.
  • My big mistake was overtightening the stupid plastic drain plug at the end of the process. I was left with a broken thread inside the radiator that I was fortunately able to get out with a reverse screw remover and a monkey wrench. I think that after 15 years this plug gets so brittle after heating up and cooling down so many times it easily breaks, so next time I will just automatically replace it every time I change the coolant. It is only $7. (see photos for part #)

Photos of the project can be seen here: LD Coolant Change

I think is is harder and harder to find mechanics who want to work on Ford motorhome engines, even Ford dealers. My regular mechanic did not even call me back for this work, so better to learn how to do it yourself.

Mike S.
'06 30' TB Anniversary Edition
Re: Self-coolant change tips
Reply #1 –
Quote from: schafir  - 
Hello all,

This week I just completed a coolant change in my '06 LD using the excellent procedure outlined here about 3 years ago by Terry Burnes
I think is is harder and harder to find mechanics who want to work on Ford motorhome engines, even Ford dealers. My regular mechanic did not even call me back for this work, so better to learn how to do it yourself.


Hi Mike
Someday we will get to see twins again. Where are you going this summer?

Mechanics willing to work on RV were hard to find inthe past and almost impossible today.
Much of the required maintenance isn’t difficult but it can get messy quick.
Every home mechanic should buy an inexpensive concrete mixing tray for use when any of the fluids are being replaced, set a five gallon bucket in the tray’s center and let the tray catch the splashes..
The Home Depot Logo

Larry

Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Self-coolant change tips
Reply #2 –
Hi Larry,

Larry, that is exactly what I did!

I just got back from the hazardous waste facility.  They told me, 'Hey, just take it upstairs, you get to recyle up to 20 gallons of
coolant for free each day.  Do you want your buckets back?  I said "yes!" They said "no problem!"

Gotta love that.

Mike

I just sent you a private message with our summer travel plans.

All the best,
Mike S.
'06 30' TB Anniversary Edition
Re: Self-coolant change tips
Reply #3 –
I would suggest changing all hoses(radiator, heater and other small hoses, radiator recovery jug, Radiator CAP......10 years or 100k for hoses.Hoses can look good but be hard as rocks on the inside.....many older vehicles with low mileage end up blowing a hose...overheating ...seizing the engine. Having to be towed is about what the parts would cost...and some of the labor. .
Coolant may look good but looses its ability to lubricate,protect against freezing and overheating.. old coolant becomes corrosive and starts to rust the block and other metal parts.. only add distilled water with the coolant.. city water and well water has minerals in it that react with the coolant....creating deposits on internal parts,, radiator fins, propellars..etc.
I do mine every 3 to 4 years with a drain and fill...a good complete flush will help if you have forgotten this important maint requirement....I worked at one of the largest Ford dealers in the south. We had many abandoned rvs from damaged engines from overheating....we started asking for a.400.00 deposit to cover it being towed out when owners could not afford repairs. If you do one replacement on an. Older rv...this is one I highly recommend.
2017 Casita Spirit Deluxe
2016 Twin King 24ft
2017 Casita Independence Dlx
2004 Midbath 26.5
Re: Self-coolant change tips
Reply #4 –
I think that is good advice FranRam.  Possibly the belts also. I just changed my air filter even though the maintenance schedule did not call for it and it definitely needed it and I change the oil every 3000 miles or every other year whichever comes first. I just don't drive my coach that much,  but I do know that the best thing for it is to drive it!  Fortunately, it is in my driveway so I exercise the all the systems on a regular basis.

Mike S.
'06 30' TB Anniversary Edition
 
Re: Self-coolant change tips
Reply #5 –
The hoses and serpentine belt in my 2003 were replaced (along with other routine maintenance) at the 90k service interval. All were still in good condition, inside and out, but, as Fran stated, it's impossible to tell what's on the inside without removing them. The belt was not glazed or nicked, but it was time to replace it to make sure that it didn't get that way. The air filter (Motorcraft) is cleaned regularly and replaced when indicated. The transmission and brake fluids and coolant were just flushed and replaced and all other indicated (and "additional") services done at the 120k interval.  All good to go, I hope - if I can find a few places that are not jammed with teeming hordes!  ::) 
2003 TK has a new home