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Topic: Water Heater Access on 24 TK (Read 403 times) previous topic - next topic
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Water Heater Access on 24 TK
My wife and I just purchased a 2013 24 TK, and I'm trying to set it up for winter.  I want to blow out my water lines to winterize instead of using antifreeze, as we plan on periodically using it this winter, and blowing the lines is quicker and cleaner.

To do this properly, I would like to install a water heater bypass kit.  Looking at the system, I can't find a way to access the water heater to do the bypass.  Do I have to pull the water heater from the outside of the RV?  From what I can see, the only access to the water lines to/from the heater would be under the kitchen sink, and there is almost no room to work there.

Anybody have experience with this?  Any help would be great.
Thanks.

Ken
Dreamchaser
2013 Twin King

Re: Water Heater Access on 24 TK
Reply #1
Hi Ken. I have a '99 TK, older than yours but probably similar.  The bypass of the water heater is to avoid putting in 7 or 8 gallons of RV (non toxic) antifreeze. 6 gallons needed to fill just the water heater. The antifreeze can be recovered in the spring for re-use, but then you have to store it.     If you blow out the lines with air, you don't need the bypass, and you don't need to do anything to the water lines. The plastic drain plug can be removed from the water heater, on the outside, to drain the water tank. I just installed a 1/4 turn, stainless ball brass drain valve in place of the plug. I reduced it from 1/2" (the plug), to 3/8" the valve. Makes it easy to drain the tank to refresh the air cushion at the top of the tank., Also just to re-fill with fresh water every few months.
   For winterizing many people blow out the water, then refill with antifreeze. Also fill the traps and some in the tanks to allow you to dump in below freezing weather. Not too far below mind you.
   Welcome to the FOLD by the way, and congrats on your new (to you) Lazy Daze.  My Tk has separate gate valves on each tank, so they don't have low connecting piping.         RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB

Re: Water Heater Access on 24 TK
Reply #2
Ken-

Where is the water heater on your TK? The LD photo gallery Web page shows a TK with the heater below the refrigerator, but that may not be the same for yours.

A couple of pictures, one each of the outside and interior locations of the water heater, would help with suggestions, especially from those of us who don't own/haven't owned a 2013 TK.

Mark H.
Former owner, 31-foot gas Class A
Former owner, 1997-8 mid-bath

Re: Water Heater Access on 24 TK
Reply #3
Thanks, Ron, for both the welcome and the post. 

I did blow my lines shortly after I got my new rig home, but I had to use my big 20 gal compressor, which needs to be trundled through the snow (if present) to get to my rig.  It worked fine, but but was a bit more hassle than I wanted.

I found an Induratec Floe 636  12v Automated Drainage System, which is a small 12 volt compressor that you mount permanently in your rig, which is designed to allow blowing the system any time, and anywhere.  It hooks into your water line between your fresh water tank and your pump.  It depends on the system being totally sealed, so that it can build pressure properly.  The instructions assume you can bypass the water heater, and that the system is set to draw water from the onboard tank, not the city connection.  Also, if I have to drop back to using antifreeze, I'd like to NOT fill the water heater, saving antifreeze, and making flushing quicker.

Anyway, the TK is small enough that as it turns out, the water heater is located under the fridge, as Mark mentioned.  Mark, I will post a couple pictures to show what I can see...  From the inside, its right behind the power distribution panel under the fridge, which is not something I want to constantly have to remove to do the flush.

I can barely see the water connections to the heater if I peer closely through the access door to the heater, but I'm not sure I can get to the connections to install the bypass, and if I did, I'm not sure how easy it would be to work the valves to do the bypass.  I looked at possibly installing the valves in the lines under the kitchen sink that go to and from the water heater, but even there, everything is incredibly tight, as you can see from one of my shots.

My big compressor can pressurize the water heater, but the little compressor can't.  Not sure exactly what I'm going to do yet, but thanks for both of you guys for responding.

Ken

Dreamchaser
2013 Twin King

Re: Water Heater Access on 24 TK
Reply #4
Hi Ken; The small compressor can do the same thing as the big compressor, it just takes longer. You could get a longer hose from your house compressor, several hundred feet isn't that expensive. By putting in a valve at the lower left drainplug, you can open a hot water faucet at the sink, to let air back into the heater. I believe the check valve is in the incoming cold water line at the heater. With the drain plug/valve open, most water would gravity drain out.  Close that valve and pressurize the house plumbing from the pump throughout the house. A small amount, in a puddle at the bottom of the heater tank, if it did freeze shouldn't hurt the tank.  I included a picture of my drain valve.  It is a tight fit, but the pipes don't touch. There is plenty of room to operate the valve. The hose barb extends the drain out, and makes it easy to attach a vinyl hose if you want to save antifreeze.   Much easier than installing a bybass, and you can just operate the Temperature/Pressure relief valve and leave it open to admit air into the tank.   RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB

Re: Water Heater Access on 24 TK
Reply #5
Ken, another picture of the TPA valve with handle. Just at the bottom left poking out behind the gas valve, you can see the hose barb from the drain valve in the previous picture. I think that getting access to the water heater to install a bypass, and then to activate the  valve to operate the bypass is too much of a pain. My access is about the same as yours.  RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB

Re: Water Heater Access on 24 TK
Reply #6
Ken-

Given a few more pictures and some time, I could probably figure out a way to plumb a bypass that would be easy to use. If you get to that point, let me know, either here or by personal message.

Mark H.
Former owner, 31-foot gas Class A
Former owner, 1997-8 mid-bath

Re: Water Heater Access on 24 TK
Reply #7
Thanks, guys.  I think I'll try working both those solutions - the drain and eventually the bypass. 

Ron - I did find a water heater drain kit at Camping World that should replace that plastic plug.  It's not as robust as what you have, but should work.  I'll post a picture when I get it installed.

Mark - Barb abd I were travelling this week, but I think I'll get some time this week to look at the bypass issue closer.  I'll try posting a few more pics of what I find as I can.

Both of you have a Merry Christmas, and stay safe.

Ken
Dreamchaser
2013 Twin King

Re: Water Heater Access on 24 TK
Reply #8

Hi Ken. That drain on my TK, and any other water heater was pretty easy.
Amazon.com: Brass Bushing 1/2" Male x 3/8" Female Threaded Brass Reducer...       bushing lead free
The Home Depot Logo  nipple lead free
The Home Depot Logo        screw in brass stainless ball quarter turn valve lead free
Anderson Metals 57001 Brass Hose Fitting, Adapter, 3/8" Barb x 3/8" NPT Male... hose barb not lead free, but doesn't matter because it isn't in contact with the water, except on the way out.
    These 4 parts are available in many locations. I think I got all four at Home Depot.  Some valves come with a male 3/8" to screw into the reducer bushing, and a 3/8" female for the hose barb to screw into. Use teflon pipe thread tape. Don't cross thread the screw in connections.
     The Camping World drain valve is less expensive, but harder to operate. That type of valve doesn't have the fastest flow rate. I find this type doesn't seal as well after some use. I use mine about 10 times a year, as I keep fresh water in the motorhome. Fire and earthquake survival pod here in so. Cal.   RonB   

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB

Re: Water Heater Access on 24 TK
Reply #9
I know that living in Florida I don' have to worry about winterizing the fresh water system, however we do get a problem with calcium build up in the water heater tank. These calcium particles can break loose from the tank surfaces and go on to plug up faucet valves downstream which is even a bigger problem to rectify. Even though I filter all fresh water going into the LD the calcium will get through and it is found in most water supply systems across the country. To prevent the calcium build up, at least once a year I remove the plastic drain plug using a 15/16" 3/8 drive socket attached to a short extension connected to a thumb drive ratchet (see photo) to remove the plastic plug. After the water is drained I then flush the tank with a flushing wand (see photo) (available @ Camping World) attached to a water hose to rinse the calcium build up from the tank. I do keep a couple of spare plastic drain plugs if one gets damaged. I then wrap the drain plug threads with teflon tape and reinsert into the water tank. A very simple operation.  
2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
1992 Barth Breakaway 28'
1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'

 
Re: Water Heater Access on 24 TK
Reply #10
Thanks again, Ron, for the links.  I did install the Camco parts, and I'll agree - looking at the petcock drain I'm pretty certain it will drain a lot slower.  If it is too slow, I'll probably switch to what you have installed, although I'll have to be careful as I think my clearance on my rig is less.

Mike, you reminded me of another thing I wanted - the tank flush wand!  Thanks, although that means I'll have to undo the drain setup every time I want to flush the tank.  I think the designers do this just to keep us users from getting bored...

I'll try posting a pic of my setup tomorrow, as it's dark and cold now, so I'm staying warm by the fire...  grin

Ken & Barb
Dreamchaser
2013 Twin King