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Topic: Repairing step on driver side entrance (Read 142 times) previous topic - next topic
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Repairing step on driver side entrance
Happy New Year ! Has any one had the pleasure of repairing rotten wood holding  the fiberglass step entering the driver side of the cab. Thanks to anyone who might know something about this. Salhapatica
1999 30' IB
Re: Repairing step on driver side entrance
Reply #1 –
Hi Sal (??);. I needed to repair the step running board attachment on my '99 a few years back. I attributed it to my weight, although I also re-enforced the passenger side. The carriage bolt heads work their way down into the wood piece supporting most of the weight at the back of the steps. I cut some flat 1/8" thick steel bar stock, and after removing a lot of latex caulk, put it in place on top of the board. I marked the holes where the bolts would go on the bar stock. I increased the size of the bolts, and went stainless. I threaded the holes in the bar stock. I put in some 1" steel angle underneath the running board (galvanized and painted black). I then re-caulked the joint at the back where the running board meets the body, and painted the caulk with touch-up blue paint. I put locking nuts on the bolts sticking up through the bar stock. I could tighten it from below if needed, but would have to retighten those nuts at the top if I did. It's been good since. I don't think the wood was too rotten, just the bolt heads too small for wood. Good size washers at build time would have prevented this problem.  RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Repairing step on driver side entrance
Reply #2 –
The step is rear part of the fiberglass fender/step assembly .The fiberglass assembly is secured to the cab in the fender area, along the sides of the step and at the rear of the step. There are several things that can go bad.
The step is stiffened with a piece of plywood, molded and sealed into the bottom of the step. If a leak developed, the plywood can rot, allowing the step to flex or give when stepped on.
The rear of the step is secured to the coach with two carriage bolts. Once again, if the plywood or the wall framing has rotted, the carriage bolts can start to pull through the step or wood framing.  Ron's method of adding steel plates to span the damage works fine to reinforce the carriage bolts but may not be enough to reinforce it if the step's internal plywood is badly rotted.
In situations like this, I have laminated a new piece of plywood to the bottom of rotted step and covered the plywood with another layer of fiberglass cloth and resin, to regain the lost structural strength .

The inner edge of the step has a lip that fits over a wood 2X2, that runs along the bottom of the cab's door well. The fiberglass lip is stapled and glued to the 2X2 . In our 2003 FL, I found the fiberglass cover was too thin and had allowed water to enter and soak the underlying 2X2, leading to rot. It weakened the step enough that you could feel it bounce when getting in and out of the cab.
The rotted wood was removed and fresh wood scabbed and glued into place, The step's entire lip was then covered in a new layer of fiberglass cloth and glued into place, with a marine epoxy resin, to regain the lost strenght and to make it moisture tight.
Fiberglass and marine resin are interesting materials to play with and can be used on many LD repairs that deal with the fenders, steps and the coach's lower panels.

Larry

Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Repairing step on driver side entrance
Reply #3 –
Larry, if the plywood molded into the fiberglass step is solid and shows no evidence of rot, would “painting” it with epoxy be sufficient to prevent water damage?
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Repairing step on driver side entrance
Reply #4 –
Hi Joan, I'm not Larry. I've used this stuff underneath the motorhome in a lot of places. Particularly in our model, the inside of the rear bumper, and behind the rear tires, gets bombarded by high velocity small bits if rock, sand, on up to gravel. So this general purpose coating will seal against water intrusion. There should already be coating in that general area, applied by LD. So you are just refreshing it. I hose it off first with high velocity water, then let it dry for a few days. Hot dry summertime is the best time for this chore. Keep it off of your outside fiberglass body. (don't ask me how I figured that out!)  I lay on my back underneath. Too much spray will drip, don't wear even slightly good clothes. I have a good light underneath to help apply it.
   Rust-Oleum Rubberized Undercoating, Black, 15 oz 248657 | Zoro.com        RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
 
Re: Repairing step on driver side entrance
Reply #5 –
The Rustoleum undercoating sounds like it will do the job! Thanks, Ron!  ;)

(Definitely a warmer weather project!)
2003 TK has a new home