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Topic: Advice needed for Waterproofing 95 30' IB (Read 284 times) previous topic - next topic
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Advice needed for Waterproofing 95 30' IB
Good Afternoon LD Community:

I purchased my '95 LD from a private seller in Washington state and had it driven to me. The pictures sent to me during our negotiation showed a couple of minor issues and failed to show what I now consider major items. I realize I purchased an older LD and expected a couple of items to update and maintain, BUT did not expect aluminum corrosion on multiple panels, some wrinkled wood (paneling) in the bedroom and other minor items. I purchased this 1995 Chevy 30 LD IB and had someone drive it from Washington to Florida back in June. I know this will be a long season of repairs - had the previous owner (and inspector) been honest and said something to me, I may have thought twice about purchasing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My first step is to make sure this is LD is watertight. I've found articles on the forum on resealing the roof and will follow some great ideas. Once the seams are resealed, should I coat the whole roof? I have pictures of the roof, the end caps, the aluminum corrosion and I'm hoping someone can provide some advice/assistance in getting this unit water tight. I've researched the forum, looked at Andy Baird's buying guide, Larry's guide to resealing the roof, how to seal the end caps.

On the roof, it appears that this is a floating roof - only tied down on the seams along the edge, front cap, and where the vents. AC, and any other penetrations are located. The roof appears in good shape - BUT I don't want to assume. I've taken pictures and would appreciate input.

Second, the end caps are like many I've seen on here - the UV 3M 5200 fast cure sounds like the best solution to this. I've also noticed the seams between the aluminum side panels have gaps, and it appears they're in need of resealing.

Third, the corrosion on the aluminum concerns me greatly - it seems as if the corrosion is growing, even though I've had this unit in dry, covered storage since July.  Again, I've seen a couple of ideas here on the forum; I'm unsure of how to repair and eliminate any further issues associated with the corrosion.

Finally, in the bedroom area (drivers side) the wallpaper and wood appear to be wrinkled and delaminating.

On a positive note, the interior is is really good shape. I want to keep it that way. I've attached pictures hoping to get the experienced LD owners to assist me with solutions. I'm also attaching my contact information in case someone wants to reach out directly. Thanks in advance to all who can help.

Stuart
stu132u@aol.com
407-718-1787, mobile
Stu
1995 Lazy Daze 30' IB on Chevy Chasis
stu132u@aol.com
407-718-1787, mobile
Re: Advice needed for Waterproofing 95 30' IB
Reply #1 –
While the roof needs resealing, it doesn't look bad for a rig of its age.
I would Eternabond the roof seams and top coat the sealant around the various vents and antennas with Dicor, after extensive cleaning and examination for hard to see faults.

Plan on resealing all the end caps and around the window frames.

It's difficult to pinpoint the cause of exterior corrosion, it can be cause by improper metal prep, before it was originally painted, a water leak behind the aluminum skin or or possibly from contact with a steel screw or staple, under the skin.
I would sand through the corrosion, to see if penetrated the through the skin. If OK, prime and repaint the corroded area.
If the corrosion is more serious, it will need to be filled with a fiber-filler. This beyond my job classification and you should consult the pros for a proper fix.

The horizontal seams are not normally sealed but it's OK if you want to.

The peeling wall paper indicates serious leak, the window frame seal is the first place to start looking.  A pulled away end cap can also let in a lot of water. Whatever the source of the leak, finding and sealing the leak is your first order of business before proceeding.
The repairs will include opening up the wall to replace the rotted wood framing I would expect to see.
This damage is very visible and should have been divulged to you by the previous owner.

Have fun,  you have a project to look forward too.
Larry




Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Advice needed for Waterproofing 95 30' IB
Reply #2 –
Good Morning Larry:

Thank you for the information/helping me find a place to start. I've had one RV before so my experience is limited. On the rooftop pictures, there was a discolored clear coat around the vents, vent caps and the antenna - is that Dicor? I've ordered Eternabond tape (4" size); should I remove the existing sealant along the seams, clean it, and then install the eternabond tape? The current sealant sticks up 1/4"-1/2" and almost looks like foam. Once the Eternabond is installed, do I then coat the whole roof? The current cover floats up there only tied down at the seams and where the vents, AC and antennas are attached - is this normal?

The endcaps show significant cracking where they meet the external wall - I've ordered 3M 4000 (5200 derivative fast cure) for these seams and under the vents when I reseal them. Is this the best approach? The roof and end caps are step one to watertight the unit.

Thanks for your honest input on the aluminum - it almost looks like an infection that's spreading. Anyone who has experience with this - I'd appreciate your "WHAT/HOW/RESULTS" input. What you did to stop the corrosion (it almost looks like electrolysis), How you repaired and sealed the hole (what product used to seal), and pictures to show results. Thanks to anyone who can offer guidance so I get these repairs done right the first time. You can always send me your guidance to my email. I'm near Orlando, FL and we're finally experiencing our first below 95 degree day since April.

Stuart
stu132u@aol.com
407-718-1787, mobile
Stu
1995 Lazy Daze 30' IB on Chevy Chasis
stu132u@aol.com
407-718-1787, mobile
Re: Advice needed for Waterproofing 95 30' IB
Reply #3 –
Good luck with this Stuart. The semi clear sealant is, I believe, the original material used by LD.  That on mine, a ‘92 is still pliable and sealing for the most part.  In those places where it is in the least suspect, I peel it off with an oscillating tool, clean the surface and seal with Eternabond around the perimeter seams, and like Larry suggested I peel it off and replace with Dicor around the vents, antenna, luggage rack etc. 

Before sealing though, I suggest you find the leaks and fix them, especially places like the windows and end caps.

Use a grease pencil to trace around the corrosion on the skin to really see if it is growing. I have a few spots that are stable, and am leaving them alone. When it is time to repair I will cut them out and patch with aluminum riveted in place, like an aircraft.

The aluminum skin on the roof is indeed “floating”. As you progress, get up there and examine it on hands and knees, looking for pinholes that will definitely leak. If you have read many of the post history here you will be aware of Lake Newton, the standing water on top of every LD.  Any pinhole can be a significant leaker. 

Good luck, enjoy the project (I hope)
Paul
'92 Mid Bath
Re: Advice needed for Waterproofing 95 30' IB
Reply #4 –
Quote from: paul banbury  - 
Good luck with this Stuart. The semi clear sealant is, I believe, the original material used by LD.  That on mine, a ‘92 is still pliable and sealing for the most part.  In those places where it is in the least suspect, I peel it off with an oscillating tool, clean the surface and seal with Eternabond around the perimeter seams, and like Larry suggested I peel it off and replace with Dicor around the vents, antenna, luggage rack etc. 

Before sealing though, I suggest you find the leaks and fix them, especially places like the windows and end caps.

Use a grease pencil to trace around the corrosion on the skin to really see if it is growing. I have a few spots that are stable, and am leaving them alone. When it is time to repair I will cut them out and patch with aluminum riveted in place, like an aircraft.

The aluminum skin on the roof is indeed “floating”. As you progress, get up there and examine it on hands and knees, looking for pinholes that will definitely leak. If you have read many of the post history here you will be aware of Lake Newton, the standing water on top of every LD.  Any pinhole can be a significant leaker. 

Good luck, enjoy the project (I hope)

Thanks for your insights and help with this. End caps, the seams on the roof line will be step one for my project. Using the oscillating tool to remove the excess sealants on the seams - I think I can do this. Then clean the area and install eternabond 4" on those seams. I'll check the floating roof for pinhole leaks. The good news is this unit has been undercover since late June, so if there are any leaks, the moisture has dried out by now. I'm thinking of coating the roof with a rubberized paint - thoughts?  I looked at RVRoof.com - they use Armor Flex for sealing the roof. I thinks it's a two-stage chemical "Polyurea". They offer a lifetime warranty - not sure of the costs. Thanks for the suggestion on the corrosion - I'll get an ink pencil and get started this week; patch in the cutouts with aluminum and rivet them - sounds interesting. I guess I'll need to know the thickness of the aluminum.
Stu
1995 Lazy Daze 30' IB on Chevy Chasis
stu132u@aol.com
407-718-1787, mobile
Re: Advice needed for Waterproofing 95 30' IB
Reply #5 –
Be sure to search on the forum for discussion about roof sealing. To me, it indicates that a LD has a leaky roof the owner was unable to fix properly, in other words, I would not do it. To each his own.

Have you also searched for posts about skin corrosion or electrolysis? Man posts turned up when I just did, but I when I copy the url address to post a link, it won’t work, so you will have to generate a search on your own.

While I was at it I searched “roof coating” and got several results as well.

Paul
'92 Mid Bath
 
Re: Advice needed for Waterproofing 95 30' IB
Reply #6 –

Good Morning LD Group:

The process has finally begun - the sealing of the LD coach. Along the seams of the roof (front to back) it appears that Dicor (and some paint) is the only product keeping it watertight. There are "bubbles" or air pockets that have formed along the seam and water has settled in on these. I'm cutting each open drying out the water then adding a sealant. Seems like there are more air pockets/bubbles each time I look. I may end missing a couple of "bubbles" and seal some moisture in. I'd prefer to start with a dry environment, so I have a few questions: My question is this:

1) Do I remove all of the Dicor (with the oscillating tool) place the eternabond (4") down then rubber coat the roof OR can I go back to Dicor (originally used on install)?
2) On the front cap (driver side to passenger side) it appears like a foam type substance was keeping the coach watertight. This appears like an area where Eternabond should be used (?) and then coated.
3) On all of the roof penetrations (A/C, antennas, roof vents) use Eternabond then coat with Dicor and then a rubber-type paint on the who roof? The roof appears to be in good shape, it can be deceiving. I want to do this right the first time and avoid pinhole leaks.

The previous owner also cracked the top end cap on the rear passenger side (beyond repair - I think), so I need to order a

Stuart
stu132u@aol.com
407-718-1787, mobile 

Quote from: paul banbury  - 
Good luck with this Stuart. The semi clear sealant is, I believe, the original material used by LD.  That on mine, a ‘92 is still pliable and sealing for the most part.  In those places where it is in the least suspect, I peel it off with an oscillating tool, clean the surface and seal with Eternabond around the perimeter seams, and like Larry suggested I peel it off and replace with Dicor around the vents, antenna, luggage rack etc. 

Before sealing though, I suggest you find the leaks and fix them, especially places like the windows and end caps.

Use a grease pencil to trace around the corrosion on the skin to really see if it is growing. I have a few spots that are stable, and am leaving them alone. When it is time to repair I will cut them out and patch with aluminum riveted in place, like an aircraft.

The aluminum skin on the roof is indeed “floating”. As you progress, get up there and examine it on hands and knees, looking for pinholes that will definitely leak. If you have read many of the post history here you will be aware of Lake Newton, the standing water on top of every LD.  Any pinhole can be a significant leaker. 

Good luck, enjoy the project (I hope)
Stu
1995 Lazy Daze 30' IB on Chevy Chasis
stu132u@aol.com
407-718-1787, mobile