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Topic: Dometic refrigerator troubleshooting - thermo breaker failure (Read 1002 times) previous topic - next topic
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Dometic refrigerator troubleshooting - thermo breaker failure
Reply #25 –
Andy & Larry - it appears that preventative medicine would be to replace the boards for the frig and the water heater (never use the furnace), correct?

Is the water heater board easy to replace?

Thanks,

Bill
2013 31' Silver Twin Bed
Semi-retired 6/21....
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #26 –
Quote from: pdl2win  - 
Is the water heater board easy to replace?

It's a 30 minute job.
A new cover and mounting plate are required.

Amazon.com: Dinosaur Electronics UIB S Small Universal Ignitor Board: Automotive
Amazon.com: Dinosaur Electronics 2TABMOUNTK Tab Mounting Kit: Automotive

Larry
As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #28 –
Quote from: Ray S.  - 
As for a couple of points already brought up in this thread, yes, the "eyebrow" and the interior refer light are not powered. The interior refer fuse is good, and I had a spare that I used that did not help.  The other coach electrics are working well.  The solar panels were fully charged daily by several hours of direct sun, and several more of indirect.  In fact, after the refer quit, we ran two small inverters to charge our phones, ran the roof vent fans, and watched 2-hours of TV that evening with no electrical malfunctions.  The lowest voltage displayed on the solar control was 12.9, and that was just as we went to bed about 10:00 pm.  In the morning, the display read in the mid-13s and then we hit the road for the trip home.  At the storage facility, the display was reading 14 and change.

Hello Ray.  How many batteries do you have in your Rig?  And thanks in advance.
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #29 –
Quote from: Ed & Margee  - 
is the water heat more time consuming because it requires more technical skill?

No technical skills required, just the ability to use a screwdriver .
It really isn't  complicated, other than installing the adaptor plate and the cover, using screws.
You do have to transfer the plug in the old to new board, as well as the high-voltage spark wire.
The wiring plugs are easy to transfer.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #30 –
Another update:  First, the question re my batteries.   I have two, the stock set up that LD put in 6 months ago when we picked up our new rig.

Second, I phoned Dinosaur and was told they do not make a replacement board for my model of Dometic, nor do they have a tester for that model.  It is too new, and they told me there is not a replacement board in the works at this time, unfortunately.

Now, it is a matter of scheduling the service repair via an "authorized" service dealer in our area.  So far, the earliest appointment we have reserved is three weeks out!
2017 RB
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #31 –
Ray,

That kinda stinks on several levels. Not the least of which is your inconvenience and inability to travel.

On another level it puts the kibosh on others with late model LDs from getting a back up Dinosaur board for their fridges.

I suppose Dometic sells the board. Not sure what the cost would be. Wondering if it wouldn’t just make sense for those of us with out of warranty Dometic fridges to just get an OEM as a backup just to be on the safe side.

Just a thought.

Kent
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #32 –
Good points.  The truth still is that I can't say with 100% certainty that the board is bad.  If it turns out that it is something else, I will immediately advise.  If it is the board, and since there are no other options at this time, then I might also think about purchasing a back up from Dometic. 
2017 RB
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #33 –
PROBLEM SOLVED.  Well, my apologies to Dometic.  Apparently all works properly with the refer.  Here's what I just learned from our maintenance person. The conditions of our camp spot on the day of the failure (running on 12V, temp setting on 4, parked in direct sun, 90+ degrees temps) caused the thermo-breaker to pop, thus killing all 12V power to the control board and the "eyebrow" above the refer.  When that component pops, it also kills power to the breaker inside the converter, and therefore that breaker does not pop and otherwise checks out okay.  The thermo-breaker is riveted to the exhaust pipe that vents up to the roof.  It is easily accessible by removing the wind baffle from in front of that exhaust stack.  On the breaker is a tiny re-set button.  Push it back into place and power is restored!  So, the Dometic refer performed exactly as it was designed to -- by popping that breaker when excess heat develops.  Thank you, Dometic (although I don't know why I had to spend $60 to have an "authorized service technician" re-set that button!?!) 

My repair person told me that this is more common than one might think.  In the same conditions, he recommends keeping the refer temp setting on 3, block open the access door and place a battery operated fan in the compartment to better circulate the air.  That all makes sense.  Here are three photos that should help illustrate the fix:

Pict 2473 is the open access cabinet. Pict 2474 is the exhaust stack with the wind baffle removed to reveal the location of the therm-breaker. Pict 2476 shows a screwdriver pointing to the tiny re-set button on the thermo-breaker.   Again, thanks to all who responded so considerately to my problem.  I hope this may help others fix their refer in a similar situation.
2017 RB
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #34 –
Ray, thanks for the update. I wonder when that breaker came on these refrigerators? I don't want to remove our baffle to look.

A quick check looks like I do have it on the 06. I just can't tell if it has a resettable button. Couldn't see it any better without removing the shield.


Jim
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #35 –
Jim -- I don't know when they came out.  I do know that my old Winnie refer (also a Dometic) did have one.  Actually, you really do not need to remove the baffle to see if the breaker is there.  Just follow the wires in and peek around the sheet metal baffle.  Even if you had to remove the baffle, it's just three screew.
2017 RB
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #36 –
My guess is that it does have the button.
2017 RB
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #37 –
I *think* the refrigerator in my 2003 (RM 3662) has the re-set button on the flue; when it gets light tomorrow, I’ll look and post.

On edit: It's light. I looked. The reset button is on the flue.
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #38 –
Just my two cents work regarding the fridge using gas:

We started having problems a few years ago.  Electric was fine, but gas was flaky and typically when switching to gas, it would fire up for 30 seconds or so.  Then it would die and the check light would come on.  I figured that the problem was in a sensor or board or something, but since we were on the road, I started by just cleaning things out as best I could.  No luck.  When we got home, in desperation before taking it in to the shop, I hooked up my compressor and blew out the compartment.  Success! The fridge has been working fine ever since, and I make it a habit of just blowing out the compartment - every nook and cranny, from a distance of a maybe 6 inches on average - a couple times a year.

I don't know if altitude can be a problem.  We live at 7500' and are camping at 9000' next week, which is probably the highest we've ever camped.  We'll see how it goes, but I don't anticipate any issues.
Tom C.
2003 MB
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #39 –
This would be good info to have in the Companion. — Jon
(Former) ‘06 TK “Albatross.” And (former) Vespa 250.   Alas, no more; both are gone.😕 Great memories remain! 😄
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #40 –
FINAL UPDATE:  We just returned from 4 days back at the Sierra campground that we were in when the refer initially quit working.  The weather conditions were nearly identical; highs in low 90s, slight breeze, still at 5800 feet, etc.  This trip, in the max heat of day, I propped the access hatch open and placed a small battery-operated fan inside to force more air over the coils.  We kept the refer temp setting at 3, instead of 4.  Not so much as a hiccup from the refer.  Worked fine all day.  I have ordered a thermostatically controlled 12V fan that I will permanently install in the back of the refer.  It's a Valterra fan with on-off switch.  Here are a couple of pix:
2017 RB
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #41 –
Is the fan pictured in your refrigerator compartment an O2 Cool 5" battery-powered fan?
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #42 –
Actually, I am not sure.  I "stole" it to use in the refer compartment from its regular function of cooling the dog off when he sleeps on his pad in the evening.   Here is the model I just ordered from eTrailer.com:

Valterra FridgeCool Exhaust Fan - 12V Valterra RV Kitchen A10-2618VP
2017 RB
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #43 –

Here's a 2-pack of the O2 Cool 5" fan on Amazon; it looks like your "dog cooler"!  ;)

Amazon.com: O2cool 5" Battery Operated Portable Fan 2 Count: Home & Kitchen

Wiring in a 12V cooling fan in the refrigerator compartment is the way to go, but this little "plop it the compartment" fan might be OK for occasional use in hot weather.

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #44 –
Yes, I agree.  The fan I stole seemed to work fine.  We don't always spend extended time in the hot weather, but when we do, I think an auxiliary fan definitely helps.
2017 RB
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #45 –
"Yes, I agree.  The fan I stole seemed to work fine.  We don't always spend extended time in the hot weather, but when we do, I think an auxiliary fan definitely helps."

We haven't been in massively hot weather since installation, but we now have a two-fan unit in the outside refrigerator compartment, and a small unit on the inside fins.  Coupled with keeping a few Blue Ice units in the refrigerator most of the time (and swapping them out with the ones in the freezer), we have had little difficulty with keeping the temperatures down.

That said . . . refrigerator temperature and reliability is probably our #1 irritation with traveling in our Lazy Daze.  If we ever lose the refrigerator, the replacement will definitely be a "Sunfrost", or whatever they are called now.


   Virtual hugs,

   Judie

•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•
 
Re: Brand new Dometic quit running on gas mode (refrigerator troubleshooting)
Reply #46 –
As usual, rather than start a new post, I'll just update an existing thread that may cover some similar questions I have on the related topic.

I have a 2004 Dometic RM2620 120v/LPG reefer that works really well. It needs to be balanced (within a 1/2 bubble) to work properly, but other than that, it can easily get to 30 degrees on 5 if I don't turn down the setting to 3-4. I had the rig out 2 weeks ago for a short road trip, and the propane worked fine. I don't have an onboard gen (carry a small Yam2000), and was never anywhere longer than a quick stop overnight, so I never hooked up 120v.

When I brought the RV home this am, the gas setting still worked fine, but when I hooked up to shore-power (with the gas switch still on), it failed to properly light. (Even when shore power is available, I like to run gas for 12-24 hrs anyway after the vehicle has been sitting longer than a few weeks.) I was going back and forth with all the buttons, turning it off, on, etc. Automatic 120v works fine, but I couldn't get 120v with gas (manual setting) to stay on.

I did all the usual checking of fuses, etc, then began poking around outside. I had taken the flue apart 4-5 years ago and did all the standard cleaning, which is why the gas runs so well. Finally, I walked around and disconnected the shore power in order to start looking at the internal fuses. Because I had left the gas setting on inside, as I walked back around, the reefer lit right up. So, I know it still works fine on 12v, and there is nothing wrong with the thermo-coupler, gas line/pressure, or blockage (webs, etc).

Of course, once it worked that way, I walked right back and hooked up the shore power again to see if the gas would stay on. No problems this time around ('natch), so I buttoned everything up and attended to other matters. As of now, it's still working fine - 120v shore, put reefer on gas (works fine in 120v as well).

My question is this: does it sound like a control board? My spidey sense seems to point that way. I replaced the control board on our water heater 4-5 years ago - with the Dino kit Larry linked to upstream on this thread - and it's worked flawlessly ever since.

So, my thinking is it's the reefer control board. Questions: are there two control boards? That is, one inside above the freezer, and one outside in the clearly marked black box? If so, does anyone think/know whether to check/replace the internal and/or external  board, or would you just replace both and be done with it?