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gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Hi folks!
  Well, I've finally decided I want to take care of my dripping valve on from the gray tank. 
I know black valve would be the 3" Bladex replacement, but I see there are two other sizes: 1 ½" and 2" Bladex (Valterra)
I measured what's on there now and it's a little over 2" so I think I need to get the 2" replacement valve; is that right?
    Also, anyone who has actually done this and would like to chime in with any advice, I'd appreciate it  I've researched and watched couple how-to videos Youtube and it looks like a pretty straightforward DIY project.  But is it really that simple?!
  After dumping/rinsing tank, remove the 4 screws (maybe after  little hit of WD40 to help loosen them up the day before?)
then insert the new valve, after lubricating the new seals (with some silicone spray?) then replace the 4 (new) screws, and that's it?    Anything else I should know before attempting this next week?  If all goes well with this gray valve, I may just go ahead and replace the black valve too, just preventative before it starts having issues :-)
    thanks in advance for any advice!
 
Daryl 
here's a short 30-sec video of what I'm seeing -- https://youtu.be/b9bNGlzptPU
        (forgot to mentioned that I already replaced the end cap a while ago, so it's not been leaking like that when the cap is on!)
2006 23.5 FL
Daryl 
2007  26.5’ mid-bath, “Blu Tent“
2021 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
  (previously 2006 23.5’ front lounge)
SKP #145689
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #1 –
I cannot offer any hints as I have not as yet changed one of my own.

However, it may be beneficial to visit a store (Camping World?) to actually put some hands on the replacement device to see what you are up against. Sometimes an eye ball can give insight.   ;D
Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Cedar
2004 30'IB (Island Bed)
Yesterday is History, Tomorrow is a Mystery
Live for the day!
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #2 –
Your LD has a 1-1/2" gray and a 3"  black dump valve. This is standard through the RV world.
Flush the tank throughly and then do it again.  The gray tank can be as nasty as the black, maybe more so
Beyond that, it is a matter of removing the old  valve and installing the new. The screws should be stainless and not badly rusted.
On models where the gray and black tanks use the same outlet, care must be taken when disassembling the junction.
You may need to loosen the black tank's valve, to provide the room needed to extract the gray valve.
Flush the black tank too, when you clean the gray tank, you never know what you need to do.

I suggest carrying spares, for the occasion when you accidentally hit one of the valves and crack it .
Many times an old valve can be taken apart, cleaned, lubed, reassembled and used again.
I replace both valves a few years ago when they became hard to operate.  The refurbished old valves are now carried as spares...the cost was right.

I like spares.
Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #3 –
Larry, for what it is worth, on my mid bath, the valves are both 3".  I note that the setup on Daryl's rig is two valves connected to a single bayonet connection, while mine are several feet apart, so mine cannot be used for guidance, BUT - from his video, it looked to me like the grey and black valves were the same size.

Ken F in OR
'08 MB
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #4 –
Ken

You are correct.
LDs with two separate hose connection have two 3" valves.
The rest have a 1-1/2" and a 3"  valve.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #5 –
thanks so much for your quick reply, Larry… very helpful!
   So have ordered the 1 ½" as well as the 3" replacement valves (Valterra/Bladex from Amazon) and as you suggested I'll try to tackle the black valve at same time I do the gray. 
    And great idea about the spares!  so that's what I'm planning to do after taking out old valves, I'll clean 'em up and lubricate the seals and just keep them onboard just in case…
  Thanks again for the info… feel a little more confident now taking this project on :-)
  Daryl
Daryl 
2007  26.5’ mid-bath, “Blu Tent“
2021 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
  (previously 2006 23.5’ front lounge)
SKP #145689
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #6 –
While we are on the subject of valves, mine black tank valve will not open and my sewage is backed up.  HELP ANY ONE!!!!!
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #7 –
Quote from: bree49  - 
While we are on the subject of valves, mine black tank valve will not open and my sewage is backed up.  HELP ANY ONE!!!!!

When you go to pull the T-handle to dump the tank:

Will it simply not pull out when you use a reasonable amount of force, or
Does it pull out but the tank will not drain?

Ed
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #8 –
Oh!
My thoughts. If the handle is still attached,
Buy a new valve. And grab you wrenches. Pull into the dump station with a dumping apron. Hook up the hoses.  Loosen the bolts on full turn and try to open the valve. 
Option 1. You get lucky and replace the valve.
Option 2. You take a"Black Water Bath"
Get ready for a "black water bath". Loosen each bolt evenly 2 full turns at a time until everything is out and the valve falls off.   Replace the valve.
Rodney
1988 Mid Bath
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #9 –
The valve is pulled but the sliding thingy will not open to allow waste out.  
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #10 –
Time for roto rooter or option 2!
Rodney
1988 Mid Bath
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #11 –
I seem to recall Larry Wade posting something about a situation like this. If the handle has separated from the blade you could drill a hole in the edge on the opposite side of the valve handle and stick a screwdriver or another object in and push the blade open. If I'm not remembering this correctly perhaps Larry will correct me.

Jim
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #12 –
Hello bree49,

I had a couple of thoughts on your current situation. Here is a YouTube video outlining my thoughts.

https://youtu.be/hxUQ0DpwtNM

Hopefully you can open this video. If not, let me paraphrase for you.

If you can find a pit style dump where you can pull your rigs dump valves over the grate, you can disassemble the dump valve while over the grate. I have only seen one dump station like this and that was in Utah near Bryce Canyon.

Another option is to have a company remove the waste from the inside by vacuuming the contents through the toilet bowl opening. You may be able to do this yourself by using a shop vac. It won't be pleasant but options at this point are limited.

Be ready for it. This may be messy and very unsanitary.

Which ever direction to go, be prepared with a new dump valve assembly. I recently ordered a complete set from the Mothership for about $25 + shipping.

Periodic removal of the valve assemblies is recommended so that the valves can be lubricated (my next project) to insure the valves work smoothly.

Best of luck with you situation and keep us posted on your end results.

Kent
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #13 –
Quote from: bree49  - 
The valve is pulled but the sliding thingy will not open to allow waste out.  

Here is another solution. This is from the Airstream group but the solution would apply to you as well.

Waste valve handle and rod pulled out of the valve - Airstream Forums

Jim
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #14 –
Thanks Jim,
That series of photos was helpful in understanding how the Valtera handle and valve are connected.  I think I am going to follow Larry's lead and pull my functional valves occasionally in order to check, clean them and lube.  A spare in the LD will be a good idea as well.

HD
2014 27 MB
Towd: Either the Jeep Wrangler or trailer containing the BMW R1200GS and 2 E-bicycles
Happy wife=Happy life
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #15 –
Bree, If I am clear on your situation, the valve blade is closed, the T handle pulled off the shaft, you were using vise grips to pull the shaft to dump, and now the shaft has pulled out of the valve blade.  I have a few thoughts, and perhaps others can give feedback as to whether these are good ideas or not. 

IF THERE IS A DUMP STATION WITH AN APRON AND WATER FOR FLUSHING:
1) Get a replacement dump valve assembly.
2) Get a long piece of wood, such as a 1" x 1", at least 4 feet long.
3) Use a penknife to shave one side of the wood at the end into a chisel shape, not real sharp, leaving an end about 1/4" to 3/8" thick.
4) Drive a wood screw or sheet metal screw part way into the blade on the side away from where the handle used to be, leaving enough space for the chisel end of the wood to fit between the screw head and the edge of the dump valve.  Use a fairly hefty screw, at least #8, and #10 is better.  Use a screw an inch long and put it in half way.
5) Use the wood as a lever against the screw to pry open the valve.
6) Once the valve opens a bit, you should be able to work the chisel end into the opening at the edge of the blade to open the blade some more.
7) Once you have drained the tank and flushed the apron, remove the old valve assembly and install the new one.
Down sides to this - it will be really messy, and it puts a hole in the valve blade, meaning you are kind of committed once you start.

IF YOU DON'T HAVE A DUMP STATION WITH APRON
I'm not sure I like this idea, but...
1) Buy some JB Weld at a hardware store and mix just a little bit.
2) Lube the part of the shaft that does not snap into the blade with vaseline to prevent the shaft from getting glued to the sides of the shaft guide.
3) Put a dab of the JB Weld on the end of the shaft and push it into the hole as far as you can, hopefully snapping it into the blade.  The idea is to try to get the dab of epoxy on the end to squeeze into any voids around the shaft, gluing the shaft to the blade
4) Go buy a new dump valve assembly while the epoxy is curing.
5) Next day, go to the dump station, hook up your dump hose, grab the rod with the vise grips and try to pull the valve open.  Make sure not to twist the shaft when you are doing this.  You do not want to break the shaft loose from the blade.
IF IT WORKS, you will have a nice, clean, uneventful dump, but it can go wrong several ways that I can think of.  First, you might wind up gluing the blade in place, making any option other than cutting the valve open unworkable.  Second, the shaft may just pull out again, and you are right back where you started, having wasted a day and some time and effort.

If it were me, I think I would try the second idea, being very careful with the epoxy, and first having tried inserting the shaft to see if it gets any attachment to the blade.  If you feel it kind of snap into the hole, then snap out again, that is a good sign.  If you feel it bump against the blade without sliding into the hole in the blade, forget that idea.  Smearing the epoxy that is on the end of the shaft onto the edge of the blade but not in the hole in the blade gets you nowhere.

LAST OPTION
Try the idea of drilling a hole in the edge of the dump valve away from the handle.  Make the hole just big enough to fit a wood dowel.  Looking at mine, there is a flat section about 3/4" wide.  At the dump station (just in case) I would drill a 1/4" hole and use a 1/4" dowel.  Do not drill into the blade, just through that edge.  Cut the dowel about 6" long.  Hook up the sewer hose and tap the dowel in with a hammer, forcing the blade open.

Good luck.

Ken F in OR

'08 MB
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #16 –
If you're near anyplace that services porta potties they have a truck that can suck up the goo from the toilet opening.
2004 26.5 MB
Enjoying retirement traveling, Rzr riding, photography, and of course the 2 grand girls!
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #17 –
Here's a variation on the wood pry bar theme:
Sink a #10 screw into the valve plate opposite the pull handle.  Drill a 1/4" hole in the pull-handle-side of the valve, on the 'dry' or outside end.  Loop some thin steel cable (like bike brake cable) around the screw, and secure with a ty wrap, just to keep it from falling off when loose.  Thread the ends thru the hole you drilled, and gear up for effluent exposure.  Pull or tug on the wire, using pliers, or a wood handle with wire wrapped around it, or a block of wood and stick for leverage, or even an electric drill wrapping wire around a rod.  Just something to generate a good pull from the 'correct' side of the valve, instead of being underneath it all, or with valve output pointed toward you.  Brace with your foot, or use blocks, to make sure the pull force is only on the valve, and not on the whole pipe assembly. 

If all that gets it open, but you're not geared up for replacement, just goop up the screw with some sealant and drive it back in, then close the valve.  Use the same method to open if required when it's time for replacement.

Best o' luck.

Chip
2000 Front Lounge
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #18 –
Ok, I mentioned this earlier but I was so happy when I got home from Big Bear. My new valve assembly was at home waiting for me.

Like I said, shortly after reading this thread, I figured it was time to stock up on the spare dump valves for our '15 RB.

Where better to go than to those who know what I need? The Mothership of course. A quick call, a check in the mail and a week later I had the entire valve assembly in hand. The cost? About $26 + shipping. Nicely done Lazy Daze.

What more do I need? Hose clamps? Glue? I'm not really sure but the first hurdle combating those nasty supermarket driveways and out of the blue boulders is out of the way.

Take a look. It's so pretty. Such a shame to put it to such a dirty task. Oh well...that's life.

Kent

2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #19 –
Bree, I have been wondering how you dealt with your stuck black tank dump valve?

Ken F in WY
'08 MB
 
Re: gray waste tank blade valve leak / replace?
Reply #20 –
Mission accomplished:  quick update that this past weekend's installation of new gray & black valves went smoothly!    So off came the temporary fix of the extra valve that had stuck out several inches, just waiting to get snagged on something!  :-)
    Thanks again Larry for your advice on this project!  
Also I installed a vent cover over the bath fan, so both fans are now covered & no more worries about forgetting to close the lid!   (Thanks also to Larry who at Live Oak was waving me down to alert me my rear vent lid was open as I was trying to reposition to a new site & narrowly missing some pesky oak branches!)
Daryl
Daryl 
2007  26.5’ mid-bath, “Blu Tent“
2021 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
  (previously 2006 23.5’ front lounge)
SKP #145689