Log In | Register
Skip to main content
Topic: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement (Read 566 times) previous topic - next topic
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
How difficult is it to change plugs on a 2002 E-450 LD? My LD has 45k miles. I don't know if the plugs have ever been changed.

Thanks!
2002 30' IB
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #1 –
I'd say it's an intermediate job on the V-10 in a van chassis.   It definitely takes patience and some flexibility, and some comfort working on things you can't directly see. 

I think it's worth hiring out IF you can find someone who understands the blow out issue and you have confidence in.  

On the other hand, it's well within the capabilities of a comfortable shade-tree mechanic and that way you know who is responsible to make sure the job is done correctly. 

See this: V10 Spark plug change | Flickr

Rich
2003 MB
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #2 –
Proceed with caution, do research. There is an issue of too few threads and the risk of a blowout will be great if you don't use inserts.
Steve and Jill, Steve posting
1999 26.5 Mid-Bath
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #3 –
Quote
See this: V10 Spark plug change

What a beautiful documentation of this procedure!
jor
09 27' MB
10  Suby Forester
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #4 –
Changing the plugs is a good Saturday project, not one I would suggest for a beginning shade tree mechanic.
Even with the seats removed, it's a contorsionist idea of a good time. A 7mm,1/4"drive socket is needed for removing the coils.
I recommend anyone with the older 4-thread spark plugs to consider have steel inserts install, too many of these rigs have blown plugs, sometimes with no extra damage only needing inserts installed, others have had their engines destroyed, BTDT

The older 4-thread plugs were installed to 12 foot pounds of torque, later updated to 28 ft/lbs.
Did I mentioned having spark plug inserts installed if you intend on owning your LD for a few more years?

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #5 –
Holy crap! What a nightmare.
2002 30' IB
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #6 –
As second owner’s of a 98 MB, we were the first to replace the plugs. We did it right at 100k miles. I had read plenty on the forums about the blown plug issue — not sure how much of a thing it is for your year, but it was for ours — and I did a lot of research and networking to find The Guy at The Shop who had a passion for Triton engines and a real concern to do the job right. We were happy with the outcome. Peace of mind is always nice to have when you know you’re gonna be on a backroad 1500 miles from home with three kids and two days to get back to the office. IMO, find a mechanic who has done this plenty of times and turn it over to them.
1998 Mid Bath
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #7 –
I just had it done on a 2006 E-450. It was $1500 including one new coil, all new boots and plugs. There were no complications. 100k miles.

I did talk to a mechanic who just completed such a job. He said he is not doing another one!
Harry 2006RB
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #8 –
Quote from: hbn7hj  - 
I just had it done on a 2006 E-450. It was $1500 including one new coil, all new boots and plugs. There were no complications. 100k miles.

I did talk to a mechanic who just completed such a job. He said he is not doing another one!

2006? this issue was not supposed to pertain after 2003 - the heads with more threads were installed sometime that year...

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #9 –
Replacing plugs at 100k miles applies to all years.
Harry 2006RB
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #10 –
"2006? this issue was not supposed to pertain after 2003"

10-4 Good Buddy. My 2004 has never had an issue at well over 100,000 miles.   ;D
Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Cedar
2004 30'IB (Island Bed)
Yesterday is History, Tomorrow is a Mystery
Live for the day!
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #11 –
Quote from: hbn7hj  - 
Replacing plugs at 100k miles applies to all years.

I think my manual recommends 90k but I could be wrong.  At 45k now.
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #12 –
Quote from: hbn7hj  - 
Replacing plugs at 100k miles applies to all years.

Yes, but the issue was models requiring the spark plug holes bored out and threaded inserts installed. Just replacing the plugs can be a bear of a job, but $1500! Pretty steep!

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #13 –
Quote from: Steve  - 
Yes, but the issue was models requiring the spark plug holes bored out and threaded inserts installed. Just replacing the plugs can be a bear of a job, but $1500! Pretty steep!

Steve

Yes, but one look at that job and I did not want to do it. If I lose another coil on the road I will give it a try. If I make it home I’ll grab the Vaseline and go to my favorite mechanic. I’m carrying two spare coils.
Harry 2006RB
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #14 –
I just did mine a couple of weeks ago. Plugs only had 44k on them. But I had a bad coil so I decided to replace the plugs while I was in there.. The biggest problem with this job is access and because of this you need the proper tools. I bought a set of wobble extensions and a 1/4 drive metric socket set. You need a spark plug socket that grips the plug and maybe a set u-joints for the real tight spots. You need to remove a bunch of things like the doghouse, the air intake, and some wiring harnesses. I unplugged both the coils and injectors to gain access and lifted the harness out of the way. Finding the tab for the coil plug is a bit tricky. It is underneath the plug and you press it. I went to the auto parts store and looked at one in a new box. As with everything on this job be gentle and don't force things. You can break the connectors and spark plugs. Once you remove the coils you need to thoroughly blow out the spark plug wells, with the plugs still in the head, with compressed air. Mine were filled with debris and you don't want that getting into your cylinder or on the spark plug seat.  Again be gentle while removing the plugs, they can break. If they appear stuck work them back and forth. Use one of the wobble extensions or a universal joint to prevent side loads on the plugs. You will have to work around the fuel rail. I started at the ends of the bank removing things to gain more access in the center. Keep everything organized and keep your bolts together. Might want to take pictures with your phone too. Also, the metal brackets are sharp and you might want to wear a long sleeve shirt. Now it is time to start replacing things. I used Motorcraft OEM style plugs I got off Amazon. Some people say they are counterfeit, but what isn't now a days. Another point of controversy is that I used never-seize on the spark plug threads, You have steel threads on the plugs going into aluminum threads in the head. You do not want seized and stripped threads. I always use never-seize on a deal like that. I replaced all the plugs and torqued them to 20 ft-lbs. I have the early heads. I also replaced the boots. They are inexpensive and known to cause problems. Use lithium grease on both ends of the boots. This helps seal the electrical connections. I also sprayed contact cleaner in all the connectors.I like Bull Frog brand as it contains corrosion inhibitors. Starting in the center of the banks I installed the coils and snugged the 7mm screws. I moved my bad coil to another cylinder just to verify that the coil was bad and not something else. I put it in an end cylinder #10 as that was easy to get to. Now reconnect the harness to the injectors and coils starting in the middle. Make sure you connect the plugs to the proper cylinders. Reinstall the harness support and air intake plumbing. I had unbolted the vehicle wiring harness on the front passenger side engine bank and this need reinstall. Make sure on the passenger side that PCV is still connected to the valve cover and intake. It kinda gets in the way and could get dislodged.  Check and snug all the bolts. Fire it up and see if you have an engine light. Sure enough my faulty coil moved. With minimal effort I replaced it. Engine runs fine and no faults. Don't hurry, it is a couple of day project and uncomfortable to do. Hope this helps.
2002 RB
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #15 –
I buy most auto parts from Rock Auto, they have been around a long time and I have never received any parts that appear to be counterfeit. Some Amazon parts have been iffy.
Buttering the inside of the boots with dielectric grease, also known as tune-up grease, helps prevent sticking, and it's also used on the coil plugs. As mentioned before, removing the captain chairs is worth the effort to provide a more roomy working area.
Plugs 1 and 6 come out easier from the front of the engine after the air intake and MAF are removed.
The suggested torque today for the 4-thread spark plugs (2003 and earlier V10s) is 28 lb-ft.

For those planning on keeping their 2003 and earlier, having all 10 plugs removed and inserts installed is a good idea, I know way too many cases of the earlier engines blowing out even properly torqued plugs. I lost an engine because of this.

Larry

Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
 
Re: 2002 E-450 spark plugs replacement
Reply #16 –
To make the job more comfortable I put an ice chest between the seats and placed a pad on top of it. It transformed the captains chairs into a bench seat.  You can also slide the ice chest forward to get better access if need be. I did not disconnect any of the wiring connectors except the 2 plugs to the air intake sensors and the plugs to the coil/injector harness. Unbolting the support brackets was all that was required to move the vehicle wiring harnesses out of the way. I also replaced the DPFE sensor while I was in there. It is in the same general location on the drivers side. The other item I would recommend is a short length set of  small size metric combination wrenches. Some bolts you can not get a socket on. All in all, the job looks worse than it is. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. Who knows, you might get stranded somewhere with a bad coil.  Now you know how to replace it and you'll have the tools to do it. It might save you a thousand bucks. BOAT stands for Break OUT Another Thousand. We don't want that happening here.
As far as torque value to use, it depends on whether the threads are wet or dry . Never-seize is a lubricant and you must reduce torque values by 20% over dry values. There is an article stating spark plug manufacturers don't recommend using never-seize for this reason. It is confusing and they don't want people over torqueing their product, stripping threads and breaking plugs. The manufacturers say there is already an anti seize coating on their plugs. As an aside, I read an article where some one tried to find out how much torque the early Ford short thread V10 heads could withstand without stripping the threads, it was 100 ft-lbs. I guess time will tell. Happy motoring.
2002 RB