Adding solar to LD with no factory solar.

Topic: Adding solar to LD with no factory solar. (Read 156 times) previous topic - next topic

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May 05, 2016, 06:40:29 pm

Hello all! I picked up a nice 2003 23.5' FL about two months ago, and I've been enjoying it (Saw another LD while taking mine out for a shakedown run at the local KOA here in San Antonio, haven't seen too many in this area before!), it's a huge upgrade from the 30-ish year old Winnebago I had previously.

So, now, I'm looking into installing a healthy solar panel system, as I boondock regularly. I'm fairly knowledgeable about the electrical side of things, while I program computers for a living nowadays, I used to do electronics work for a mfr of high power motor controllers at one time, so sizing cable for the amperages, etc is no problem. My questions are more on the physical side of the install, getting the wires where they need to go, properly mounting the panels, etc.

First question, Wire access:

Alas, mine is one of the few LD I've seen that *didn't* have any panels installed at the factory (I gather they weren't standard on the smaller rigs til' later), so it doesn't have the preinstalled access conduit/vent on the roof for the wiring. Also, the usual route for such wiring (fridge vent) is on the curb side of the rig, while the batteries, and the electrical panels are all on the drivers side. (My lounge layout has the barrel chairs and the table covering the battery box on the drivers side. For some reason the floorplan on the LD website shows this mirrored.)

So, to get the wires from the panels to the controller (likely a Victron mppt controller), which will probably live in the bottom kitchen cabinet space somewhere, I've got two options:

1) *carefully* drill a hole in the roof, likely above the microwave, and add an access box (home depot weathertight junction box with a 2" or so diameter bit of pvc conduit sticking out the bottom, the whole thing sealed in place with plentiful application of 3M-5200), and run the wires through there, out the side of the upper cabinet above the rear barrel chair and down through some cable channel alongside the valence into the lower cabinet. This will shorten the cable run, and provide ready access for cables for other things (namely cellular and wifi antennas) that I will be wanting to install on the roof. I've seen pictures of a very nice similar install (http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/albums/72157661711994929/with/23710216171/), but I think he's using the factory access vent, not modifying the roof.

2) Shanghai the tank vent in the rear bath to run the wires through. This will mean a slightly longer cable run (+6-8 ft to reach all the way to the back of the rig and forward again inside), but I can just run the wires from the rear bath wardrobe straight into the lower kitchen cabinet, and on to the controller. And I don't have to drill a hole in the roof, which is always good. The problem being, since I want to install 480w of panels (I think I can fit 3 of Grape Solar's 160w panels) I want to use a decent gauge wire, and with the future need for 2 cellular antenna cables and a network cable for WiFi, I'm not sure how much cable I can cram through that vent without interfering with it's functioning.

Anyone have thoughts on which is better? Or any pitfalls I might encounter here?

Second, actually mounting the panels: Do folks take care to line up the mounts on the solar panels with the 'rafters' in the roof? Or is any old place reasonable to screw the mounts to (with appropriate sealant, of course) I can find where the beams are by looking at the nailhead covers on the ceiling inside and measuring from 'landmarks' that go through the roof, like the fan and AC openings. I'm just not sure if I'd be able to fit the panels I'm looking at if I have to adjust their position for the beams.

Third, minor question: Is there any good way to (temporarily) remove the table that covers the battery box inside without damaging anything? This would make it easier to run wires to the battery box (I'm also looking to install a Victron battery monitor, and need to install a shunt.) I would think there is, but I'm not seeing one (perhaps I'm just not seeing some screws somewhere?).

--Thanks,

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-- -Monsyne M. Dragon