roof sealant February 23, 2016, 02:27:20 pm Yahoo Message Number: 158949has anybody used something other than eternabond such as rv roofing solutions ? I am 82 and don't relish the idea of crawling around on the roof. there doesn't seem to be any company that installs eternabond in the Michigan market'
Re: roof sealant Reply #1 – February 23, 2016, 03:24:44 pm Yahoo Message Number: 158952At 82 years, you give this 70 year old hope that I may have some good years left to RV. All I can say is well done.Ed & Margee Fort Worth
Re: roof sealant Reply #2 – February 23, 2016, 03:41:16 pm Yahoo Message Number: 158953Lou? I was able to Eternabond my roof by using a tall step ladder and moving it around the sides. The only roof action required was the the strip across the front cabover.Chris
Re: roof sealant Reply #3 – February 23, 2016, 11:51:46 pm Yahoo Message Number: 158965Sealant Question: We have some horizontal cracking along our vertical end pieces on our 2007 RB model. I can't find original responses to this inquiry so hoping I can gain some feedback on best product(s) to close cracks to prevent moisture penetration.Thanks in advance.John from Idaho
Re: roof sealant Reply #4 – February 24, 2016, 05:14:18 am Yahoo Message Number: 158969We have the same problem in a 2006 RB. We have not resolved the issue but assume we should fill/seal the cracks with Dicor sealant or something similar. Harry 2006 RB
Re: roof sealant Reply #5 – February 24, 2016, 06:38:45 am Yahoo Message Number: 158971If, and it's a big IF, I understand where the cracks are appearing, filling them is just for cosmetic purposes, per Vince. I'm assuming we are talking about the vertical, wrap around pieces at the 4 corners of the "box" of the motorhome, yes? One of these would be, for example, the passenger side at the ladder and connects the wall with the large back window to the side. The whole piece of plastic is, maybe 6" wide and formed to make the 90 degree turn to attach the wall to the side. If that's not it, just hit delete. Thanks. Ken
Re: roof sealant Reply #6 – February 24, 2016, 07:29:10 am Yahoo Message Number: 158972In the search box at the very top of the page just to the right of the words Yahoo Groups, type the words 'end cap seperation'. You will come up with countless posts on this topic. Ed
Re: roof sealant Reply #7 – February 24, 2016, 08:00:53 am Yahoo Message Number: 158973As Ed states, the topics of "end cap separation" (and stress crack repair, roof sealing, etc.) have been discussed many times. I acknowledge that using the search feature on Yahoo message boards can be clumsy and tedious to deal with, but putting specific key words into the "Search Conversations" bar (at the top of the home page of the message board) will usually bring up a lot of information.Depending on the accuracy of the search phrases used, one may not get all the information desired on the first pass, but the more specific the search term, the better the results. One will have to spend some time sifting through posts to winnow useful information, but it's usually available. A caveat: check the date on the post; for example, some products that may have been used for certain repairs in past years may no longer be available, or a better product or technique to do a job has been developed.Also look at the Lazy Daze Companion; the website is listed on the home page of the message board.Some who are reading posts through email and not on the message board may be unaware of the search functions and links found at the board's website; a little exploration might bring up quite a bit of information.As always, YMMV.Joan
Re: roof sealant Reply #8 – February 24, 2016, 11:13:34 am Yahoo Message Number: 158980Here are a few of my threads on repairing end cap crack separation. Yahoo's search isn't very good, it's hard enough to find things you know exist.https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/lifewithalazydazerv/conversations/messages/119557 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/lifewithalazydazerv/conversations/messages/141767 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/lifewithalazydazerv/conversations/messages/141722 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/lifewithalazydazerv/conversations/messages/141766 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/lifewithalazydazerv/conversations/messages/119544 And if you are looking for a way to find hidden leaks in your LD https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/lifewithalazydazerv/conversations/messages/119534Enjoy Larry
Re: roof sealant Reply #9 – February 24, 2016, 11:19:28 am Yahoo Message Number: 158981Chris's method of using ladder works but does require a lot of up and down motion, moving the ladder. I know of no one who will Eternabond your roof. Once upon a time, I did roofs but the knees now refuse to cooperate. Fours hours on crawling around on your knee will make a big impression on them. I have not found a young person willing to be taught how to seal roofs, there is a lot of potential business for a skilled person, who specialized in LDs.You could also have the existing sealant cut off and replaced by a regular RV shop. I use a vibratory tool, with a sharp chisel blade, to quickly slice the Factory polyurethane away. Then it can can be replaced with fresh poly. This what the Mothership does, figure $1500-2000 for them to do it. Either way, don't put it off until it's too late. Rotted roofs cost a lot more to repairLarry
Re: roof sealant Reply #10 – February 24, 2016, 01:40:56 pm Yahoo Message Number: 158985Thanks for response Ken.Yes, the aforementioned 4 corners are as you described them. I thought this to be a common occurrence over time and thus, had assumed most LDers used the same product(s) to seal them to prevent moisture penetration (i.e. Dicor or 3M product).I'll check previous posts on subject but would appreciate any specific product recommendations.John
Re: roof sealant Reply #11 – February 24, 2016, 01:59:30 pm Yahoo Message Number: 158986Larry,Many thanks for your references on subject.I read each one and will now pursue 3M product that has worked for you over the years. Assume it's easy to remove excess sealant using your masked tape method.Regards,John from Idaho
Re: roof sealant Reply #12 – February 24, 2016, 02:01:59 pm Yahoo Message Number: 158987Joan,Thanks for taking time to respond.I'll continue research efforts as suggested. Larry listed several post conversations and seems (no pun intended) like best product is 3M 5200.Regards,John from Idaho
Re: roof sealant Reply #13 – February 24, 2016, 03:19:07 pm Yahoo Message Number: 158988Assume it's easy to remove excess sealant using your masked tape method.----- In my experience, the tape removes cleanly if the 5200 is allowed to set just to the point of being non-tacky; the fast-cure 5200 is true to its name, and letting the stuff harden may result in tearing the tape and little strips of "blue" adhering to where you don't want it to be when you try to remove it.I'm currently working slowly (I am no longer real speedy!) on sealing around the window frames; I let the goop set overnight on the two big rear side windows, and it was too long a time; most of the tape came away cleanly, but some, particularly where one has to "piece" the tape around corners, tore where the 5200 had hardened. Picking and prying out little bits of stuck-in-the-seam tape is a PITA. I suggest having a couple of wooden craft sticks (or popsicle sticks) to "shape" any still slightly malleable sealant back into place.A couple of additional suggestions (which Larry probably already covered); using disposable nitrile or vinyl gloves, 1.5" blue tape (1" works, but requires more "pinpoint" application), and having paper shop towels and lacquer thinner or acetone handy for clean-up makes sealing jobs a bit more tidy. And, be aware that 5200 hardens in the tube if left to sit for too long between uses, so plan the types of sealing jobs you have and the time to be spent doing them with that in mind.As ever, YMMV.Joan
Re: roof sealant Reply #14 – February 24, 2016, 03:39:14 pm Yahoo Message Number: 158989That is a great resource list LarrySent from Garry's iPhone
Re: roof sealant Reply #15 – February 24, 2016, 03:44:38 pm Yahoo Message Number: 158990" Assume it's easy to remove excess sealant using your masked tape method."JohnAfter taping the edges of the seams, to prevent spreading, apply the polyurethane sealant, after the screws are installed. Remove the excess, squeeze-out and them smooth the surface with a wet finger (wear disposable gloves). As soon you are satisfied, carefully remove the tape, in the the opposite order in which the pieces of tape were placed. The 3M 5200 Fast-Cure will skim over in just a few minutes, so for the best finish, get the poly applied, screws installed, the surfaced smoothed and the tape removed in ten minutes or less. Do one cap at a time. Remember, 90% of this task is in the preparation. Take your time cleaning and taping, this is a messy job, one that you want to do only once.Wear old clothes, the 5200 will stick to anything touches and is just about impossible to completely remove. It usually leave a permanent mark, unless washed in lacquer thinner or other noxious solvent. Get of box of med-strength disposable gloves and expect to use several pairs. I change them often to avoid spreading the 5200. Gloves are cheap.I pre-drill the caps for the stainless steel sheet metal screws, used to pull the freshly glued caps into position. Drill the holes, through the cap, the next size up from the diameter of the screws, to help prevent cracking around the screw holes. Do not over tighten the screws, instead, use then to align the edge so it looks as stock and straight as possible. Many times there is a big gap to be filled, after whatever damaged tape has been removed. Once prepared for sealing, give the opening a generous helping of the 5200 and use a gloved finger to push the sealant deep into the gap. Install the stainless steel screws in their pre-drilled holes and tightened until aligned. Be happy having squeeze-out, better to use too much than not enough.Larry
Re: roof sealant Reply #16 – February 24, 2016, 04:01:22 pm Yahoo Message Number: 158991"Larry listed several post conversations and seems (no pun intended) like best product is 3M 5200."In almost thirty years, I have not found anything better. First found it at West Marine while looking for a strong, permanent sealant, for a pump I was rebuilding at work. Since I have used it on boats, homes, RVs and any other application that calls for permanent, weather-proof adhesive sealant. Never seen a failure of the product. The subsurface fails.It has its downsides. It's expensive, requires a prepared surface, is not widely available and is about as messy as any other product I use. It's a love-hate relationship. It loves to stick to you and spread itself around your rig or shop, where it will be forever, unless quickly cleaned before it cures.Larry
Re: roof sealant....now end cap cracks Reply #17 – February 24, 2016, 09:28:48 pm Yahoo Message Number: 158994I think most of the responses to this post have missed the point of the poster's question. The post asked about HOIZONTAL cracks on the vertical end caps, ***not*** end cap separation from the coach. I took the question to mean that they want to repair stress cracks that are appearing across the the end caps.If I am correct, I don't think there is a repair for these cosmetic cracks. Perhaps a coat of white touch up paint if they are unsightly? I would hate to start applying sealants like the 3M5200 over cosmetic cracks. If the cracks are big enough to cause moisture penetration, I would think repacing the end caps would be the required.If it were me, I would send some photos to the LD factory for an assesment. It could be purely cosmetic and doing nothing is the best option. Just my opinion.Steve K.
Re: roof sealant....now end cap cracks Reply #18 – February 25, 2016, 12:45:43 am Yahoo Message Number: 158995"The post asked about HOIZONTAL cracks on the vertical end caps, ***not*** end cap separation from the coach. I took the question to mean that they want to repair stress cracks that are appearing across the the end caps."The horizontal cracks can be sealed too but it will not necessarily be permanent due to the minimal surface area being glued. I clean the crack with a narrow, sharp dental tool, undercutting it if possible. It needs to be as clean as possible, so scape the plastic a little to expose fresh plastic. Tape the crack as closely as possible and then apply the sealant. Force it in with a gloved finger and then clean the excess as well as possible, before removing the tape. You can come back in a half hour and use a rag or Q-tips, soaked with lacquer thinner, to clean up any remaining sealant on the surface.Horizontal cracks usually occur with no obvious reason and can occur in any of the rounded caps. Some caps come from the Factory with screws in one or more caps, done, I suspect, to pull in a cap that does not fit perfectly. The caps are flexible, up to a point.Larry
Re: roof sealant....now end cap cracks Reply #19 – February 25, 2016, 08:17:07 am Yahoo Message Number: 158996Those were great tips from Larry for working with 3M 5200. Here's one more tip. Once even a tiny bit gets on your gloves, anything you touch will likely be contaminated. Therefore, I don three pairs of disposable gloves before I start. As soon as a glove gets 5200 on it, I peel it off, exposing a clean glove.Even so, I may have to pause at some point and put on a fresh set of gloves. But starting with three pairs means I don't have to do so nearly as often. Given the quick curing time of 5200, that's a big plus. And minimizing accidental spread of the hard-to-remove stuff is highly desirable, as Larry and others have pointed out.Andy Baird
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Topic: roof sealant (Read 105 times)
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