Winterizing the Water Pump November 12, 2014, 05:47:23 am Yahoo Message Number: 149464Hi All I've managed to drain, blow out and/or dump antifreeze into everything but the water pump. When I turn it on there's still a bit of a gurgling sound. Problem is, I can get the out-going line disconnected - even with a wide array of tools I can only get it to turn so far. Does anyone have a suggestion for turning the nut without loosing the rest of the skin on my knuckles? Is there another option for winterizing the pump?Many thanks...Pat
Re: Winterizing the Water Pump Reply #1 – November 12, 2014, 07:42:36 pm Yahoo Message Number: 149489Pat, You might want to mention the year and make of your Lazy Daze.I will describe my process for our 07 Mid Bath. I have not had the RV long and there are more knowledgable people so take what I say with a grain of salt.The parts encountered are mostly plastic. When I can I use a wrench instead of pliers, channel locks or vice grips to keep from damaging any thing.To get antifreeze into the pump requires disconnecting the "out" port of the pump and introducing antifreeze to the pump somewhere upstream or disconnecting the "in" port. I choose to introduce at the filter screen assembly. This way the filter screen bowl is filled with antifreeze as well. My filter screen does not come apart and I will not force it. This can be a bit of a mess. I have several rags to catch water and at least one dry white rag to use at the end to catch the antifreeze coming out.Removing the line from the "out" port: I use a 1" wrench. This is a big wrench and does not fit well into the space. Because the nut is plastic you only need to get it started then the res is done by hand. If you can find a special purpose wrench that is short it is worth having. It will make the job easier and will be less likely to cause damage to the plastic nut.Introducing antifreeze into the "in" port: 1. our 07 LD uses a ShurFlo filter screen assembly that has a plastic bowl. This assembly is held in place with a ShurFlo "Quick Disconnect" system at each end. The quick disconnect uses a U shaped collar that slides over a special connector that slides into the assembly. The ends of the "U" spread apart a little to slide off or onto the assembly to hold every thing in place. When sliding the collar off, it often springs away into a dark corner. When trying to slide the collar on, unless the mating parts are perfectly aligned the collar will NOT go on. That said it is easy to get use to how it works and requires no special tools. If the fresh water tank has not already been emptied now would be a good time to accomplish that task.2. Once pump is isolated by removing the water lines from the "out" port; ...the filter assembly is removed from the water line; ...and a rag placed under the "out" port; ...I turn on the pump until it runs dry. I turn off the pump. Clean up the water. Place a new but not the last white rag, then run the pump again for a few seconds.3. I fill the filter bowl assembly with antifreeze and slide it in place. No need to place the locking collar on this first fill. I turn on the pump and let it draw antifreeze until the assembly is empty then turn off the pump. Refill and repeat until I am confident the pump is full of antifreeze. I refill the bowl assembly with antifreeze (though I likely don't need to at this point) and reconnect the assembly to the water line.4. Reconnect the house water line (as long as the house water lines have been blown dry as described in the owners manual). Do not over tighten the plastic nut. Leave a note to look for leaks at the water pump's out port come spring incase I am not the person filling the system the first time.Notes: I want to make a quick connect line that will just "quick connect" at the "in" port of the filter bowl and draw directly from the antifreeze container. The problem is I keep forgetting what a good idea this would be until I winterize. The process is not that hard. Now it only takes a couple hours at most. The first of four times (a couple winter trips to Florida) it took a half day. I always have the owners manual out and do each step one at a time.John
Re: Winterizing the Water Pump Reply #2 – November 12, 2014, 09:40:57 pm Yahoo Message Number: 149492It sounds like you are trying to disconnect the plumbing on the output side of the pump. Even if you get it off you will not be able to get anti-freeze to the input side of the pump, where the water is probably located. The only way to get there is to disconnect the input side of the pump. If you are using pink antifreeze to winterize, I would strongly advise you to get a Camco anti-freeze injector installed in the input line of the pump (between the fresh water tank and the pump.) It makes installing anti-freeze a simple task and it puts anti-freeze in the input side of the pump. One problem with the plumbing in many LD models is that LD installed a filter between the fresh water tank and the input side of the water pump. This is good. However, LD mounted many of these filters about a foot above the floor. The result is that when you drain your fresh water tank, the water in the input side of the pump, and to a certain extent the filter, does not drain and remains. If you install an anti-freeze injector put it between the fresh water tank and the filter. These leaves the filter full of anti-freeze.Doug Baker
Re: Winterizing the Water Pump Reply #3 – November 13, 2014, 06:31:47 am Yahoo Message Number: 149493Thanks John and Doug I managed to get both the input and output unhooked - that was the major issue - using several different wrenches and pliers. I did as you advised, ran the pump for maybe 20 - 30 seconds and no water came out. I like the idea of installing something to make the process of adding antifreeze easier - thanks for the tip. And I've got a 30 foot 2000 - I keep forgetting to add that info... Thanks again...Pat
Re: Winterizing the Water Pump Reply #4 – November 13, 2014, 02:20:12 pm Yahoo Message Number: 149498I went back today to put some more stuff in order. I found the cameo kit that goes to the bottle I had ordered last. I also found the fittings that allowed me to fit the cameo kit directly to the filter screen. I put the everything in a bag and will now store them next to the pump for next year. I played with the kit some and it works great. Much easier than filling the filter assembly by hand. This will shorten the process considerably.
Re: Winterizing the Water Pump Reply #5 – November 14, 2014, 01:52:18 pm Yahoo Message Number: 149524When I purchased my '99 RB, I had 2 bypass valves installed that have made the winterizing process a breeze. The first bypass is installed in front of the hot water heater. (access via access panel inside cabinet under fridge) to keep antifreeze out of the hot water heater. Remove the panel, put the valve in the bypass position, drain hot water heater and leave plug out. The 2nd bypass is installed between the water pump and the supply line that comes in from the fresh water intake. Set valve to bypass position and attach intake tube (remove brass cap) which sucks the antifreeze from each of 3 gal jugs. Unless you are a plumber by trade or extremely handy, my advice is to have a good RV service tech do the install. It sure makes winterizing an easy and painless process.Todd
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Topic: Winterizing the Water Pump (Read 20 times)
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