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Topic: Converting an overhead. (Read 10 times) previous topic - next topic
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Converting an overhead.
Yahoo Message Number: 147124
Hi, I'm looking at a '94 RB. It has cabinets in the overhead area. Has anyione ever removed those and converted the space into a bed? If so how tough is it? Thanks!

Re: Converting an overhead.
Reply #1
Yahoo Message Number: 147125
Hi,

This has been discussed many time previously.  You evidently are looking at an entertainment center option on the 94RB.  It was not structurally designed to be a cabover bunk when originally built by the factory.  If that is a deal breaker, look for another IMHO.

Gary
2007 30' TB

Re: Converting an overhead.
Reply #2
Yahoo Message Number: 147127
Thanks for the info. That's too bad because it is otherwise a very nice unit. I really need to at least occasionally sleep 5 or 6. I'll keep looking. Thanks again!

Re: Converting an overhead.
Reply #3
Yahoo Message Number: 147131
I have a 2001 which was converted from entertainment center to full double bed. The prior owner had it done. It looks very professional. They also put a fantastic fan in the roof, as there is no hatch in this type unit. I have had a problem with leaking there but it seems to be ok now. Since I live close to the mothership I had Vince take a look at it after I bought it. He thought it was done very well, however since it was structural work from someone other then LD it was a blaspheme.
I have the invoice for this work. They spent over $9000.00 to have this done it a rv facility near San Diego where they lived.

Re: Converting an overhead.
Reply #4
Yahoo Message Number: 147133
Holy moly!  It might have been cheaper to buy a small pull-behind mini-camper for the guest accommodations!  Some friends did this with their Class B.  They pulled an Aliner for the wife's mother from Canada to Arizona (and back) every year!  I can think of many advantages to having a separate unit rather than adding to the weight of the Lazy Daze proper.

Of course this got me to researching the weight of such a trailer.  A brand new Aliner 15 (base price ~$15K) would weigh in at just over 2,000#, with about half of the extras that they offer.  Interestingly, a "built-in toilet", at $700., is considered an extra.

Virtual hugs,

Judie http://dorrieanne.wordpress.com

Re: Converting an overhead.
Reply #5
Yahoo Message Number: 147135
"I have the invoice for this work. They spent over $9000.00 to have this done it a rv facility near San Diego where they lived. "

$9000, guess it must have look nice, wow!
 Having been inside the guts of a lot of  LDs, there isn't a lot structurally different between a bunk and the cabinet that couldn't be corrected but it would be a lot of work to do it right.
Ripping out the cabinet will be a bigger chore that what you would expect...unless you have previously removed some other big piece, such as a couch. When LD installs something, it's there to stay. They screw the cabinets to the walls from the outside so getting the heads of the screws is impossible.
Everything comes out in pieces. Patching up the damaged and missing paneling add to the project.
 Another major problem is the missing escape hatch and side windows, it could get a bit toasty up there.
A Fantastic vent can installed, another major job, complicated by the need to run 12-volt power to the fan.

It really isn't worth the effort, especially on such an old rig.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze

Re: Converting an overhead.
Reply #6
Yahoo Message Number: 147136
I would be nervous about structural work not done at the factory. They know the framing best and will stand behind their work. Also I fear the resale value would suffer from these non factory mods.

There are only 2 places I would take the rig for this kind of work. The mothership or the craftsman that does all the work on my LD.

Bob

Re: Converting an overhead.
Reply #7
Yahoo Message Number: 147141
Larry Says:
 "Ripping out the cabinet will be a bigger chore that what you would expect...unless you have previously removed some other big piece, such as a couch. When LD installs something, it's there to stay. They screw the cabinets to the walls from the outside so getting the heads of the screws is impossible.
Everything comes out in pieces. Patching up the damaged and missing paneling add to the project."
 I am currently remodeling two bathrooms in a manufactured home and I agree 100% with Larry!  You can't imagine how many 3" long screws they used to attach the vanity and built-up overhead light fixture to the walls!  I suppose that this was to hold it together while it was going down the road, but the replacements are not getting this degree of attachment.

Glen in AZ

 
Re: Converting an overhead.
Reply #8
Yahoo Message Number: 147142
At least on a mid-bath, getting power to the forward escape hatch area isn't all that difficult. Power is available at the "bunk light" and that's just a short "fish" away from the escape hatch frame.

I did just that after installing a TurboKool swamp cooler on my '05 MB "Yonder". The TurboKook replaced the rear lounge FantasticFan which was moved up forward to replace the escape hatch. The net result has been very nice cooling through the full length of the LD while boondocking. The cooled air enters from the TurboKool  and warm air is exhausted via the front Fantastic fan that is set to exhaust for maximum cooling.

No more running generator just to power the air conditioner while camping off-grid! The exception would be in a hot and humid spot, and I try to stay away from those :c).

bumper
bumper
"Yonder" '05 MB
"WLDBLU" glider trailer