Lazy Daze Owners' Group

"...Was also thinking of pulling out the blue carpet and putting down a floating wood floor but am not sure how to deal with the cab section of carpet if I wanted to put down a tan carpet on the cab floor or cieling.  Any advice? Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions."

Was also thinking of pulling out the blue carpet and putting down a floating wood floor but am not sure how to deal with the cab section of carpet if I wanted to put down a tan carpet on the cab floor or cieling.  Any advice? Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.

"I plan to have my wife recover the blue window valances with a more up to date color. Was also thinking of pulling out the blue carpet and putting down a floating wood floor"

Anthony
 Many completely remove the valances to expose more window and a bigger view. The tinted windows do make the interiors of LDs darker than RVs with clear windows. Another option is to narrow the valances, reusing the Factory fabric or something different.
 A disadvantage of completely removing the valances is it increases the drafts coming off the windows. I have spent numerous evenings, in many LDs, with every variation of valance, in cool weather, and definitely feel the difference, especially at each end of the window. Valance-free LDs are draftier.
The valance acts as an edge weatherstrip, when the shades are pulled down. The tighter the valance fit the shade is better it is when it comes to draft control.

Our 23.5' FL LD has the same blue/gray interior as yours.
We liked it and ordered it but planned from the beginning to cover the Factory carpet. The light blue carpet shows every bit of dirt. We noticed the floor models, at the Mothership, looked bad.
I begged Steve to install hard flooring throughout the interior...in vain, "no" was his answer. He said it added to much work to make it look and function right. So no hard floors.
I tried several types of carpets before settling on a dark blue indoor/outdoor carpet found at Lowes. For the carpet to keep its shape it needs to have a rigid backing. The more expensive carpet has stiff backing. Carpets with weak backing will stretch out of shape quickly. It looks bad and becomes a trip-hazard. A heavy, thick backing also keep dirt from migrating through the carpet.
Using heavy craft water, make a template of all the carpet and floor area you wish to cover. Using scissors and masking tape, piece the template together so it covers the the nooks and crannies.
 Flip the carpet and template over and tape the template to the carpet, after making sure both the carpet and template are flipped (failing to do this is a quick way of wasting a good piece of carpet). Then trace the outline of the template on the carpet's backing, with a Sharpie. Cut the carpet with a new, sharp utility knife. Change the blade if it starts to get harder to cut.  Use a straightedge to guide the knife on the long straight cuts. Take your time cutting. An tightly fitted carpet locks itself in place.
 Where the carpet meets the Factory hard floor, I use sticky-back 1" wide Velcro tape on the floor. The carpet has a strip of 1" wide Velcro, without the 'sticky' (adhesive), glued on with a solvent-based contact cement.
The indoor/outdoor carpet is thin enough not to make the carpet feel to deep or soft. It's pleasant to walk in bare feet and is a lot warmer. I'm finally happy with the carpet and it seems to be holding up fine after a lot of dirty campsites.
If it gets dirty where vacuuming doesn't clean it,  wash it. On a hot summer, the carpet can be rolled up and taken outside. Lay it out on the driveway and wash it with a push broom, a bucket of soapy water and a hose, with a nozzle. I do will do this once before pulling it out and using it, as a template, to cut a new, replacement piece of carpet.
The most difficult part of the job is cutting the first template. Subsequent replacements will use the old carpet as the template.
To cover the cab, lounge and bath cost less the $75. We should get 3-5 years out of the carpet before replacing, so the cost is minimal. It is more comfortable temperature wise, summer and winter, than hard floors would be with throw rugs or a single layer of carpeting.
 It's something to think about before engaging in a major project of removing the Factory carpeting and installing hard flooring.
You mentioned replacing the carpet in the cab, that is going to be another big job.
Get ready to remove a LOT of staples, in the floors and cab.
When LDs installs something, it's installed. They never try to save money on staples or polyurethane glue.

Have fun! Larry

"Valance-free LDs are draftier."
 Although I'm a strong proponent of removing the valances--I don't want anything narrowing my views!--I must admit that Larry is right. If you're traveling in really cold weather, you'll feel more cold air coming off the windows if the valances aren't there. It's only a few days a year that I notice it, so for me the trade-off is still worthwhile.

Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/