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Topic: Electric Troubleshooting (Read 8 times) previous topic - next topic
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Electric Troubleshooting
Yahoo Message Number: 109079
Our '99 30'IB with orig two solar panels.  We get an alarm when hot water is switched on, when refrigerator light comes on, when attempting to light furnace (and furnace will not light).  Alarm come from below refrig above battery compartment.  This occurs even while connected to shore power.  Also our battery charge controller gives off crazy and erratic voltage readings.  Is this solely an inverter problem?  Help!

Re: Electric Troubleshooting
Reply #1
Yahoo Message Number: 109081
Quote

"Our '99 30'IB with orig two solar panels.  We get an alarm when hot water is switched on, when refrigerator light comes on, when attempting to light furnace (and furnace will not light).  Alarm come from below refrig above battery compartment.  This occurs even while connected to shore power.  Also our battery charge controller gives off crazy and erratic voltage readings.  Is this solely an inverter problem?  Help!"

What kind of alarm?  Describe the sound. How long does it last?  Does doing anything make it go away? Just the facts, ma'am!  If your inverter is in the same place as in my "02 30', it will be behind the drawers under the fridge.

Chris
Formerly: 2002 30' IB

Re: Electric Troubleshooting
Reply #2
Yahoo Message Number: 109082
"We get an alarm [from below refrig above battery compartment] when hot water is switched on, when refrigerator light comes on, when attempting to light furnace (and furnace will not light)."
 My guess: your batteries are very low and unable to hold a charge. The alarm is coming from your inverter, which is complaining about low battery voltage. If you turn off the inverter (there should be a switch half-hidden somewhere near your TV), you probably won't get the alarm... but that won't solve the problem.
 The first thing to do is to check your batteries' water level, and add distilled water as necessary. It's not a bad idea to drive a few miles after doing that, just to get the water well mixed with the existing electrolyte solution.
 If you have a battery hydrometer (about ten to twenty bucks at most auto parts stores), you can check the charge states of the individual cells. I'm betting they'll show a very low charge. In addition, they should all be very similar. If one or more cells are different, you have a problem that can only be solved with new batteries.
 Be sure to  check the connections to the batteries. If necessary, clean all terminals and apply grease to protect them.
 "This occurs even while connected to shore power. Also our battery charge controller gives off crazy and erratic voltage readings."
 Since your batteries are not holding a charge even when your solar panels and/or your converter are pumping in the juice, it's likely that the problem is the batteries themselves.
That's especially likely if the ones you have now are the originals. Ten years is beyond the lifespan of most lead-acid storage batteries. Check this group's archives for discussion of where to get reasonably priced replacements. Costco may be your best bet.

"Is this solely an inverter problem?"
 In all probability, your inverter is fine--it's merely signaling that you have a battery problem.

Andy Baird

http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

Re: Electric Troubleshooting
Reply #3
Yahoo Message Number: 109084
It is a constant buzzing sound somewhat like the propane sensor alarm and it goes on until hot water is turned off or refrig. door is closed.  For some reason the furnace no longer ignites.

Re: Electric Troubleshooting
Reply #4
Yahoo Message Number: 109088
I also think it is your inverter "squealing" it's undervoltage alarm.
 Based on your described symptoms, you may have a failed Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) that selects between your converter's AC output and your inverter's AC output.
 If your setup is like mine, when you have shore power and/or generator power, the ATS switches to that source vice the inverter output.

I just finished replacing the ATS on my LD for such a problem.

George C.

Re: Electric Troubleshooting
Reply #5
Yahoo Message Number: 109096
"For some reason the furnace no longer ignites."
 It needs adequate voltage. In a recent message on furnace troubleshooting, I mentioned that if the house batteries are low, the furnace's blower may still run, fooling you into thinking that everything's OK... but if the voltage is too low, the blower won't run fast enough to move the "sail switch" that controls ignition. Result: lots of cold air, but no burner operation.
 Bottom line: you need to address your battery problem. Once you have good batteries, chances are everything else will start working again.

Andy Baird

http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"

Re: Electric Troubleshooting
Reply #6
Yahoo Message Number: 109100
The furnace on my FL will light but not on first try.  Usually second or third.  Once on it will cycle on and off without a problem.  The sail switch is working and the unit has been cleaned.  The "thought" now is the solenoid for the gas flow is sticking.  I have noticed a drop in fan speed if any overhead light is turned on or if the oil-radiator heater is on.  Is this normal?

Darlene

AlaDar Beagles
www.aladarbeagles.com

Re: Electric Troubleshooting
Reply #7
Yahoo Message Number: 109103
"This occurs even while connected to shore power. Also our battery charge controller gives off crazy and erratic voltage readings."
 Have the battery charging system tested for proper operation before shelling out money for batteries.
Even with dying batteries, the converter should provide enough power to keep the inverter from alarming. The exception would be a battery with a shorted cell.

Larry
2001 MB
* Not to be confused with Larry W (3000 of my posts are actually from expert Larry W due to Yahoo transition mis-step)