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Topic: Ball joint problems (Read 7 times) previous topic - next topic
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Ball joint problems
Yahoo Message Number: 106000
Just wondering if this has been a problem with other 26.5 mid baths. I noticed some uneven wear on our 2005 last week and figured it was an alignment problem. Turns out to be quite a bit more. I don't know that much about such things, but as I understand it from the guys at Tire Rama in Missoula where I happen to be right now, both my front ball joints are shot. In addition, all the caster cam bushings are worn beyond safety. They cannot be adjusted and needed replacement. They did the job quickly and under the estimate ($1100.00).
 Because of the uneven tire wear on the front tires, they recommended rotating two of the rear duels to the front. Seemed like a good idea until they removed the rears and uncovered some fairly extensive cracking on both sides of the inside facing tires. Yet there was almost no evidence on the outside of the tires. We had to really examine closely to see any other sign. I was amazed to see this. I had expected the outsides to show deterioration first. The outsides are the only areas exposed to the sun and when in storage, they are covered.
 Needless to say, the tech was not comfortable putting the cracked tires on the front, so I ended up buying two new Michelins for the front for now. He charged me $500.00 installed but I wanted to ask if that sounds about right. The tires are the standard Michelin LT225/75R16 E LTX M/S that came with the rig and they were just under 6 months old. I would have changed them all around but I hadn't had time to price them out anywhere else. I think I remember folks here paying anywhere from 190.00 to 300.00, but I don't know if that included installation. The existing tires are just over five years old and I was planing on replacing them after the first of the year anyway. But now I think I need to do it sooner.
 So I'd like to know if around 250.00/tire sounds fair. The guys at TireRama were great and actually threw in the balance of the new tires. I guess they took pity on me. Here in Montana where there is no sales tax, I thought the 250.00 might be a pretty good buy.

Thanks,

David G
Re: Ball joint problems; tire prices
Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 106009
Hi David,

Sounds like you found a trustworthy spa for your baby!

I'll have new tires installed
2003 RB
Re: Ball joint problems; tire prices
Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 106010
Quote
Did you have to buy new grommets, or were the existing still usable?

Hi Lorna,

Not sure what the grommets are, but we don't use the Borg tire stems. We use Tire Man brass stems. I'm not sure of the differences between the two, but the tech guy didn't charge us for re-installation of the stems.

David G
Re: Ball joint problems; tire prices
Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 106011
Quote



Did you have to buy new grommets, or were the existing still usable?

Hi Lorna,

Not sure what the grommets are, but we don't use the Borg tire stems. We use Tire Man brass stems. I'm not sure of the differences between the two, but the tech guy didn't charge us for re-installation of the stems.

David G

I think they are the same or close.  As far as I know, everything was re-usable.  I don't know that it added much to the complexity of the tire mounting and I was not charged extra either.  As I mentioned, I am going to have my mechanic adjust one of them as the angle is hitting up against the wheel cover.  I'm sure he'll take care of it.  But it is something to check when you have yours (re)done.

David F.
 
Re: Ball joint problems; tire prices
Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 106012
wrote:

I don't know that it added much to the complexity of the tire mounting and I was not charged extra either. As I mentioned, I am going to have my mechanic adjust one of them as the angle is hitting up against the wheel cover.
---

It is not necessary to remove the long tire valves (from Borg or the Tireman; they're essentially the same product) from the wheels when changing the tires; my tires were replaced *with the long valves and grommets left in the wheels* because I didn't want someone unfamiliar with the stems to remove and try to replace them.
 A tire shop removes the stems from the wheel because it's easier and less time-consuming for them to change out the tire when the valves are removed; they don't have to be careful to not to snap off a valve when they're slamming the wheels on and off the machine. Yes, it takes them a bit more time and care, and, yes, they resist doing it, and yes, you have to watch them so they don't do something stupid. But, it can be done!
 My advice is that you *not* try to adjust *the valve* to make it fit that !@$*#!! cheap wheel cover! Doing this can cause the valve to leak because it isn't tight and/or positioned correctly. A metal shop with a stainless steel punch, or a laser cutter, or even a stainless steel burr on a drill (if you need a weekend project) can ream out the holes to allow clear access to the rear valves.  Both of the rear wheel covers on my 2003 have had the holes elongated/"ovaled" so the valve from the inside dual can be checked and aired without interference from the wheel cover.

Joan
2003 TK has a new home