Maintenance item- Brake system flushing May 06, 2009, 02:53:46 pm Yahoo Message Number: 102156A maintenance item that has not been discussed for a long time is brake fluid flushing. Every two or three years, it is a good idea to flush the brake system, removing the old brake fluid, along with dirt, debris and absorbed water. Brake fluid is hydrosorbic, meaning it absorbs water from the atmosphere. The absorbed water causes all sorts of problems, including rust. When the brakes become very hot, as when descending long downgrades, water in the fluid can boil leading to brake fade and/or brake failure. Another good reason to use low gears when heading downhill. Brake fluid flushing is a chore that a qualified home mechanic can do. It requires only a handful of simple tools. Brakes are a critical safety system, so do this only if you have the proper experience to do it correctly. Even if you are not qualified, it is a periodic maintenance item that every MH owner should have done. There are several ways of flushing or bleeding a brake system. Shops usually use a power flusher, which speeds the process. I use this method on our Jeep and Acura. Not having the right adaptor for the LD, I use the gravity method, a simple, effective method whose major disadvantage it that it's slow. It takes a couple of hours to do but it can save you a lot of money. The flushing process basically removes the old dirty fluid and replaces it with clean fluid, while also removing any air that may be in the system. Start by removing as much of the old fluid from the mater cylinder's reservoir. I used a rubber battery filler bulb. They cost less than $10. When done, flush the bulb out with water to preserve it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M5X0MS> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/3507236563/in/set-72157617695365733/> After sucking out as much fluid as possible, flush the reservoir a couple of times with a few ounces of fresh fluid and suck it out. Then refill the reservoir to the top with fresh fluid. Check the owner's manual in your LD for the proper fluid. Our 2003 Ford E450 calls for DOT 3 fluid. I use Castrol GTLMA DOT3 because it is less susceptible to absorbing moisture and it has a higher boiling point, making it more resistant to brake fade. Deposit the old fluid in a container for recycling at your local auto parts store or local Haz-Mat disposal site. I use old windshield washer fluid bottles for the dirty fluid. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/3507236831/in/set-72157617695365733/> The brake lines are flushed one brake caliper at a time, starting with the passenger side rear brake, proceeding to the driver side rear brake, then to the passenger side front brake and finishing with the driver side front brake. Each brake caliper has a bleeder valve, covered with a rubber cap. Remove the bleeder's rubber caps before flushing and replace afterwards. Ours LD bleeders have a 3/8" hex head. A 3/8" wrench or socket is used to loosen and tighten the bleeders. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/3508046242/in/set-72157617695365733/> After loosening the bleeder 2 or 3 full rotations, attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder, with the other end of the hose dropped into a container to capture the old fluid. The clear plastic hose enables you to observe the color of the brake fluid as it drains. You will know when the fluid is flushed when the color of the fluid changes from a dark, dirty color to clear. When the fluid runs clean, remove the hose, tighten the bleeder valve and move to the next brake The fluid will slowly drain out. The passenger rear brake took almost 45 minutes before the old fluid ran clear, indicating that the old fluid was gone. The driver side rear brake only took about 15 minutes before it ran clear. After flushing the rear brake, move to the front brakes and repeat the process. While the brakes are draining, frequently check and refill the master cylinder, making sure the reservoir never runs dry. After the flushing is complete, make sure the bleeders are tight, the rubber caps replaced, the master cylinder fluid is topped off and its cap replaced. When finished, start the engine and push hard on the brake pedal, making sure it does not sink (which would indicate a leak). Look at all the bleeders to make sure there is no leakage. Afterwards, hose off with water any brake fluid that has spilled since it will remove any paint it touches if allowed to remain. Our 2003 23.5' LD required about 2-1/2 quarts of fluid to fully flush the system. Brake flush photos. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157617695365733/>Larry As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Re: Maintenance item- Brake system flushing Reply #1 – May 06, 2009, 04:05:57 pm Yahoo Message Number: 102160On Wed, 06 May 2009 18:53:40 -0000, "Larry W" wrote:QuoteA maintenance item that has not been discussed for a long time is brake fluid flushing With your detailed instructions and photos, I feel I can do this myself. Many thanks.I have added this item to my Maintenance Checklist. I also uploaded the Word Doc to the Files area, so that others will have a starting point for creating their own personal Maintenance Checklist.Don & Dorothy An MB named Koko & a Jeep named Pelli Our Travel Blog: http://travelingdorothy.blogspot.com/ Our Mods Blog http://kokoandpelli.blogspot.com/
Re: Maintenance item- Brake system flushing Reply #2 – May 06, 2009, 07:09:58 pm Yahoo Message Number: 102173Larry, thanks so much for the info. Is there a different type of brake fluid that would eliminate the need for changes?Jim C
Re: Maintenance item- Brake system flushing Reply #3 – May 06, 2009, 07:15:10 pm Yahoo Message Number: 102174Yes, Flushing a motorhome takes a long time. I did a friend of mines, extra long pickup truck a while ago and I couldn't believe how much fluid that thing had in it. If you have very many vehicles that need this type of maintenance, I highly suggest picking up a vacuum pump at Checker or Auto zone for around 40.00. It really speeds up the job. Good write up.
Re: Maintenance item- Brake system flushing Reply #4 – May 06, 2009, 08:46:15 pm Yahoo Message Number: 102175"Is there a different type of brake fluid that would eliminate the need for changes?"Jim CNot that I'm aware of. Brake fluid is like motor oil; it gets dirty and needs occasional replacement.Larry
Re: Maintenance item- Brake system flushing Reply #5 – May 06, 2009, 08:54:08 pm Yahoo Message Number: 102176"Yes, Flushing a motorhome takes a long time. I did a friend of mines, extra long pickup truck a while ago and I couldn't believe how much fluid that thing had in it. If you have very many vehicles that need this type of maintenance, I highly suggest picking up a vacuum pump at Checker or Auto zone for around 40.00. It really speeds up the job. "Dan I have a MityVac and a DIY power flusher. I thought I would give this low-budget method a try since it is something others may be tempted to try. DIY power flusher, used along with an air compressor and pressure regulator (set at around 15 PSI). http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157604930479626/>Larry
Re: Maintenance item- Brake system flushing Reply #6 – May 06, 2009, 09:08:53 pm Yahoo Message Number: 102178Quote A maintenance item that has not been discussed for a long time is brake fluid flushing. I'm curious, Larry. Why do you suppose the Ford Owners Manual & Schedule of Maintenance list makes no mention of brake fluid flushing?Ed
Re: Maintenance item- Brake system flushing Reply #7 – May 07, 2009, 12:36:29 am Yahoo Message Number: 102183"Why do you suppose the Ford Owners Manual & Schedule of Maintenance list makes no mention of brake fluid flushing?"EdFord feels that brake fluid is good for the life of the vehicle. Maybe. As long as the brakes hold up through the warranty period, Ford is happy. Mercedes now has a 10,000-mile brake fluid change interval for some of their cars. Back in 2003, when we had the last discussion on this topic, Ford's Class A motor home chassis maintenance schedule called for a 2-year brake fluid change interval. I have no idea of what Ford's reasoning is or was. I have flushed brake fluid that looked like thin mud from many vehicles and have seen the results of corrosive damage in master cylinders, brake cylinders, calipers and brake lines. Who knows what damage is done to expensive ABS components. A few dollar worth of brake fluid is cheaper than replacing damaged parts, not to mention the reduced chance of a brake system failure. One thing I forgot to mention in my write up. After flushing, you should drive on a gravel road and hit the brakes hard several times to fire off the ABS system. This helps flush out the old brake fluid that is contained in the ABS pump and valves. This fluid normally is not removed during a flushing unless a special electronic tool is used to open the ABS valves. Unfortunately, the old fluid is not removed from the system but it is diluted with the newly replaced fluid. Ford or a good brake shop should have the tool and be able to fully flush the system.Larry
Re: Maintenance item- Brake system flushing Reply #8 – May 07, 2009, 09:11:55 am Yahoo Message Number: 102184"Larry W" wrote: Ford feels that brake fluid is good for the life of the vehicle. Maybe. As long as the brakes hold up through the warranty period, Ford is happy. --- Ford's maintenance schedules can be found at: https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/maintenance_schedules/Getymm.aspDrill through the choices to find a specific model, year, and "use". Neither flushing the brake system nor the cooling system is on the routine maintenance list, but I plan to have both of these services done along with the regular maintenance. However, I tend to err on the side of caution and also change the oil and filter in my rig every 3000 miles, so YMMV! ;-)Joan
Re: Maintenance item- Brake system flushing Reply #9 – May 07, 2009, 02:14:19 pm Yahoo Message Number: 102193Wow, that's quite the setup. Should work very good. Just pressurizes the system? As to the Ford not mentioning it in their maintenance, I agree they probably figure that brake fluid is good for the life of the car. But, if you've ever changed something that's over 10 years old, there's a huge difference in old versus new fluid. Obviously the newer synthetic fluids have to be better than the ones in use 20-30 years ago. The biggest problem with brake fluid is it absorbs moisture, which makes it less effective. I just like my brakes to be the best they can be. I don't know if anyone's ever tested the old versus new fluid in a scientific setting, but there's got to be a difference. But basically all you're talking about is the oils ability to compress and clamp down the calipers on the rotors. It might be a less than noticeable difference, but for the few dollars spent and an hour or so in garage I say do it. When I bought my 89 RB I took it to a mechanic and had them flush every line in the coach, replace all fluids, replace all hoses and belts etc. He used Royal Purple for everything. Did the transmission and differential as well. I don't think any of that stuff had ever been changed because of the low mileage on the rig, 24K when I bought it. But time can be harder on stuff than use in a lot of cases, people just figure it's good because it hasn't been used, and that's not the case.