Toad brakes February 07, 2009, 10:27:45 am Yahoo Message Number: 99071I thought y'all might be interested in a quick update on outfitting my Honda Fit as a toad. The towbar and tow bracket installation wasn't a problem, and I have magnetic lights in place with wiring run under the chassis... but I found out yesterday that the ReadyBrake system isn't usable with this car. ReadyBrake works uses a hitch extension with a lever arm on top. When the coach slows, it pushes on the ReadyBrake and an internal mechanism moves the arm forward. That in turn pulls a cable that's attached to the back of the brake pedal, applying the brakes. In order for this to work, you have to drill a hole in the firewall right behind the brake pedal for the cable to come through, and you need at least three or four inches of clearance behind the firewall.That's where the trouble arose. The Fit's engine compartment is so tightly packed that you can't get to that area--the transmission is right behind the firewall in that location. LDer and mechanic John Leach and I spent about 45 minutes crawling around trying to find a way to do it, but had no luck.So I'm going to have to try to return the unused ReadyBrake for a refund, and I'm going back to my original plan of getting Mike & Lisa Sylvester to install a US Gear Unified tow brake system--a lot more expensive than ReadyBrake, but by most accounts the best braking system on the market. (Skylark is already wired for the US Gear system, thanks to its previous owner.) I'm not knocking ReadyBrake, by any means. Everything I've heard about it from owners has been favorable--once installed, it's simple and works well. Unfortunately for me, it just doesn't fit my Fit. ;-)Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: Toad brakes Reply #1 – February 07, 2009, 11:04:27 am Yahoo Message Number: 99072Just curious... Have you considered not using an auxiliary brake system since your Fit is well under the 3000 lb cutoff? In a past life I towed a Ford Escort (about that same weight) and never knew it was there. Not suggesting - just questioning... :-)ray03 FL Nixa, MO--Andy Baird wrote:
Re: Toad brakes Reply #2 – February 07, 2009, 11:35:58 am Yahoo Message Number: 99074Quote I thought y'all might be interested in a quick update on outfitting my Honda Fit as a toad. The towbar and tow bracket installation wasn't a problem, and I have magnetic lights in place with wiring run under the chassis... but I found out yesterday that the ReadyBrake system isn't usable with this car.ReadyBrake works uses a hitch extension with a lever arm on top.Perhaps you might consider Brake-Pro, which is what I use.It's completely self contained: It fits on the floor between driver seat and brake pedal. An accelerometer inside applies pressure to the pedal; there are adjustments for sensitivity and for amount of pressure. A radio link to the coach signals brake application. Brake application pressure from an internal pneumatic tank powered by toad 12v. The only thing through the firewall is a coax carrying signal from the break-away switch.About $1K three years ago. I for one definitely *do* know when the toad is back there - I keep watch!John
Re: Toad brakes Reply #3 – February 07, 2009, 11:40:04 am Yahoo Message Number: 99075I won't drive after having my one glass of wine with dinner, even though I'd be legal in doing so. If the slight impairment was contributory to an accident, I'd have to live with that guilt . . . Why even consider going without aux brakes after adding a ton or more to the hind end of the LD? Doing so *will* substantially increase stopping distance. Might even make the difference between getting stopped in time if some kid runs out between parked cars. Honest, I'm trying hard not to preach, but I was a cop for 10 years in Oakland, CA, and saw far more than I needed to see to teach me these lessons.bumper Yonder Minden, NV
Re: Toad brakes Reply #4 – February 07, 2009, 11:44:14 am Yahoo Message Number: 99076"I'm not knocking ReadyBrake, by any means. Everything I've heard about it from owners has been favorable--once installed, it's simple and works well. Unfortunately for me, it just doesn't fit my Fit. ;-)"AndyToo bad about the ReadyBrake. I had seen that style of brake for several years but never knew anyone who used one. You will like the US Gear brake. It appears to be the best on the market and has good long-term durability. Its wide range of adjustability allows it to work well with any vehicle.I did not get a chance to mention this earlier but please make sure the bumper bolts are all torque to specs. We came close to losing the rear bumper and toad last year when the bumper bolts loosened and started falling out. All the hardware was changed to a higher grade ( and nyloc-nut were installed to prevent this from happening again. This is an inexpensive and worthwhile addition. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157605167526411/You are going to love having a toad. It will expand your world.Larry
Re: Toad brakes Reply #5 – February 07, 2009, 05:44:38 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99079Quote I thought y'all might be interested in a quick update on outfitting my Honda Fit as a toad. The towbar and tow bracket installation wasn't a problem, and I have magnetic lights in place with wiring run under the chassis... but I found out yesterday that the ReadyBrake system isn't usable with this car. I just finished the installation on my 2009 Honda Fit today Andy. I did have a slight problem with the Roadmaster bracket. The piece that extends back into the frame was about 1/8" too short on the passenger side and the supplied bolt would not thread into the weld nut since it was hitting the front edge of the large hole in the frame. (Absolutely worst place to have an issue like this since you cannot get to the hole to enlarge it.) I finally took a 4 lb contractors hammer and physically bent the arm to to the left slightly and finally got the bolt started. This moved the weld nut in slightly and put it at a slight angle to the interfering hole. The weld not on other side was almost dead center in the hole and the holes in the front (where bumper was mounted) were really snug such that the bracket could have been a little longer. I installed a 6-pin round connector and wired the existing lihgts through diodes. I have been using a Brake Buddy for the last three Toads and simply set it in & go.
Re: Tow bracket on 2009 Honda Fit Reply #6 – February 07, 2009, 07:50:14 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99082"I did have a slight problem with the Roadmaster bracket. The piece that extends back into the frame was about 1/8" too short on the passenger side and the supplied bolt would not thread into the weld nut since it was hitting the front edge of the large hole in the frame."I ran into the same problem on both sides--couldn't quite get that bolt started because it was scraping the edge of the chassis hole. But I solved it in a different way: I put a spherical grindstone bit in my Dremel tool and ground away the front edge of the chassis hole just a bit until the bolt was able to go through. It only took a minute on each side.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: Toad brakes Reply #7 – February 07, 2009, 08:14:06 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99083A "brake in a box" system such as Brake Buddy or BrakePro would be an easy drop-in solution. However, such systems have a number of drawbacks compared to the US Gear Unified tow brake system.Most are not "proportional"--they only have one pressure level. US Gear modulates the brakes exactly as you do when pressing the brake pedal. They don't use the toad's power brakes. US Gear installs a vacuum pump that provides full power brake operation, even though the toad's engine is not running. In addition, many "brake in a box" systems have no breakaway provision. US Gear does have this important safety feature. To use a "brake in a box," you must take the brake unit from wherever you've stored it, pump the brake pedal a few times, install the brake box, plug it into the toad's electrical system... then reverse the process when you want to use the car, plus depressurize the brake box (at least with Brake Buddy). And you have to stow away the bulky brake box somewhere.By contrast, with a US Gear system, you just plug in the umbilical cable and breakaway lanyard--period. Everything is in place, ready to go--there's nothing to stow, install, adjust, pump,"Brake in a box" systems are powered by the toad's battery (in the Fit's case, a 40Ah battery). The drain is fairly heavy, and can cause toad battery failure and consequent toad brake failure. By contrast, US Gear provides power from the motorhome via its umbilical cable, powering the US Gear system and charging the toad battery as well. This is not to say that "brake in a box" systems aren't usable, but in my humble opinion they aren't the best choice for auxiliary braking. They're easy to install, but cumbersome to use compared to the US Gear system, which is complicated to install but trivially simple to use. Since I won't be doing the installation on this one (I'll let Mike & Lisa tackle it), I'll reap the benefits of US Gear's better braking performance and ease of use. :-)Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: Toad brakes Reply #8 – February 07, 2009, 10:25:46 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99084QuoteMost are not "proportional"--they only have one pressure level. US Gear modulates the brakes exactly as you do when pressing the brake pedal.I use it as an "Emergency" system for sudden panic stops where the additional weight of the tow car may extend my stopping distance. I have never set it up to activate every time my MH brakes are used and as someone metioned in earlier reply, the Fit is not really a heavy car.QuoteThey don't use the toad's power brakes. US Gear installs a vacuum pump that provides full power brake operation, even though the toad's engine is not running. In addition, many "brake in a box" systems have no breakaway provision. US Gear does have this important safety feature. The Brake Buddy has a brakaway system also and I install a 12VDC line between the MH and Toad to keep battery charged (one of the pins in 6 pin connector)QuoteTo use a "brake in a box," you must take the brake unit from wherever you've stored it, pump the brake pedal a few times, install the brake box, plug it into the toad's electrical system... then reverse the process when you want to use the car, plus depressurize the brake box (at least with Brake Buddy). And you have to stow away the bulky brake box somewhere. 5 Minutes total time , including unhooking the tow bar. De- pressurization is a simple button on BB. I throw it in the trunk or rear bay of LD.QuoteBy contrast, with a US Gear system, you just plug in the umbilical cable and breakaway lanyard--period. Everything is in place, ready to go--there's nothing to stow, install, adjust, pump,"Brake in a box" systems are powered by the toad's battery (in the Fit's case, a 40Ah battery). The drain is fairly heavy, and can cause toad battery failure and consequent toad brake failure. By contrast, US Gear provides power from the motorhome via its umbilical cable, powering the US Gear system and charging the toad battery as well.This is not to say that "brake in a box" systems aren't usable, but in my humble opinion they aren't the best choice for auxiliary braking. They're easy to install, but cumbersome to use compared to the US Gear system, which is complicated to install but trivially simple to use. EXCEPT when you trade cars, then you find out you have to go buy another system or a total retrofit since the one you have no longer fits. Like I said, I have used my BB in (4) different tow cars to date 1996 Saturn SW2 2001 Toyota Sienna(heavy) 2002 Honda Odyssey(heavy) 2004 Saturn Ion Now I will use it in 2009 Honda Fit with no additional expense. When I consider how much it would have cost me to have a total retrofit in all of the above vehicles, I will deal with the minor aggravation.William Crockett KB4OB www.rvweb.net www.rv-rgv.com
Re: Toad brakes/ SMI system Reply #9 – February 07, 2009, 11:43:32 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99085Quote A "brake in a box" system such as Brake Buddy or BrakePro would be an easy drop-in solution. However, such systems have a number of drawbacks compared to the US Gear Unified tow brake system.Most are not "proportional"--they only have one pressure level. US Gear modulates the brakes exactly as you do when pressing the brake pedal.Quote They don't use the toad's power brakes. US Gear installs a vacuum pump that provides full power brake operation, even though the toad's engine is not running. In addition, many "brake in a box" systems have no breakaway provision. US Gear does have this important safety feature.Quote To use a "brake in a box," you must take the brake unit from wherever you've stored it, pump the brake pedal a few times, install the brake box, plug it into the toad's electrical system... then reverse the process when you want to use the car, plus depressurize the brake box (at least with Brake Buddy). And you have to stow away the bulky brake box somewhere.By contrast, with a US Gear system, you just plug in the umbilical cable and breakaway lanyard--period. Everything is in place, ready to go--there's nothing to stow, install, adjust, pump,"Brake in a box" systems are powered by the toad's battery (in the Fit's case, a 40Ah battery). The drain is fairly heavy, and can cause toad battery failure and consequent toad brake failure. By contrast, QuoteUS Gear provides power from the motorhome via its umbilical cable, powering the US Gear system and charging the toad battery as well.This is not to say that "brake in a box" systems aren't usable, but inQuotemy humble opinion they aren't the best choice for auxiliary braking. QuoteThey're easy to install, but cumbersome to use compared to the US Gear system, which is complicated to install but trivially simple to use. QuoteSince I won't be doing the installation on this one (I'll let Mike &QuoteLisa tackle it), I'll reap the benefits of US Gear's better braking performance and ease of use. :-)Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/ Andy,What are your thoughts regarding the SMI system which also uses a vacuum pump to activate the toad's vacuum brake booster?
Re: Toad brakes/ SMI system Reply #10 – February 08, 2009, 12:22:27 am Yahoo Message Number: 99086"What are your thoughts regarding the SMI system which also uses a vacuum pump to activate the toad's vacuum brake booster?" Like the US Gear brake, SMI's toad brake uses a vacuum pump to power the toad's brake booster and activate the towing brakes. We have used a permanently mounted SMI unit, in our 3800-lb Cherokee, for the last five years without any major problems and recommend it. Customer service has been top-notch. I have the brake set up to activate only when braking hard. Under normal situations, the LD's brake are more than adequate. Pulling a much lighter rig, such as the Fit, does not require, IMO, progressive braking. On the other hand, I see no disadvantage to having progressive brakes, as long a wide range of adjustments is available. SMI sells both single-stage and progressive units.It is so convenient to have a permanently installed brake. All the wiring is in the umbilical cord. To set it up, plug it in and turn the power switch on, that's it.Larry
Re: Toad brakes/ SMI system Reply #11 – February 08, 2009, 09:47:28 am Yahoo Message Number: 99089I concur with Larry's observation. We've had an SMI Duo for a little less than a year (2004 RB towing a 2001 manual trans Subaru Forester). It was installed before we took a six-week trip last summer to the Canadian Rockies and Glacier NP from Portland, OR--so we experienced a lot of of up and down grades. I followed Larry's advice and had two additional custom connections made--an auxiliary light
Re: Toad brakes/ SMI system Reply #12 – February 08, 2009, 12:18:27 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99091"In retrospect, I wish I had used Blue Ox feet on the Sterling tow bar and a Blue Ox bracket on the toad. As I understand it, with this solution, the tow bar arms connect directly to the toad's bracket. In contrast, the tow bar is connected to the Roadmaster bracket via a removable 'Rube Goldberg' pair of arms and a cross-bar frame that extend in front of the grill."I agree that the Roadmaster "quick disconnect" setup with its extra crossbar is more cumbersome than I'd like. (I've heard it argued that it's theoretically stronger than the Bluer Ox setup, but I doubt it matters--I've never heard of a Blue Ox towbar failing due to lack of strength!) Not that it's horrible, but it could be simpler.However, in the case of my Fit, the Roadmaster baseplate was preferable because it yielded near-perfect vertical alignment with the LD's hitch receiver (meaning a level towbar), whereas Blue Ox's baseplate for the Fit results in a four-inch misalignment, necessitating the use of a drop hitch extension. (I know this because I found a Fit/Blue Ox owner in a nearby campground and measured the heights.) "For full-timers [the Roadmaster's extra crossbar] is not a big deal, as one would not remove the arms/crossbar contraption very often, but it is a pain for those of us who use our LDs intermittently and do not want to drive around town all the time with extra tow framing extending several inches beyond the front bumper."Agreed. Of course it can be removed in under 30 seconds, thanks to Roadmaster's twist-lock hardware, leaving the car (at least in my case) looking absolutely stock... but then you have to find a place to stow the four-foot wide crossbar and two rather bulky quick-disconnect posts. To me, that's the real disadvantage of the Roadmaster setup. All of this reinforces the point that when selecting a towbar system, it pays to bear in mind that you *can* play mix and match between systems such as Roadmaster's and Blue Ox's... and in some cases it will be to your advantage to do so.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: Toad brakes/SMI system Reply #13 – February 08, 2009, 12:36:18 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99092"What are your thoughts regarding the SMI system?"I have no experience with it, but Larry's and Ted's posts make it clear that it's well designed and works well.Just to make things more interesting, I should mention that there's yet another alternative: Roadmaster's "BrakeMaster" system connects directly to the motorhome's hydraulic brake system and provides proportional hydraulic brake. The unit is a two-foot-long hydraulic cylinder that mounts in the driver's footwell and depresses the brake pedal. A few months ago I met a woman with a Lazy Daze who had one of these on a Subaru and was happy with it, though she did say it was a bit of a nuisance having to remove the cylinder every time she wanted to drive the toad.Oh, and Roadmaster also sells a "brake in a box" system called EvenBrake that does have proportional braking, removing that particular drawback of the Brake Buddy system (though not the other disadvantages mentioned). :-)Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: Toad brakes Reply #14 – February 08, 2009, 12:40:09 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99093"Like I said, I have used my BB in four different tow cars to date: 1996 Saturn SW2 2001 Toyota Sienna 2002 Honda Odyssey 2004 Saturn Ion"If I expected to change cars every two or three years, I agree that I'd think twice about a permanently installed system. But I keep cars for ten years or more, so the investment makes sense for me.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: Toad brakes/ SMI system Reply #15 – February 08, 2009, 01:44:49 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99096QuoteHowever, in the case of my Fit, the Roadmaster baseplate was preferable because it yielded near-perfect vertical alignment with the LD's hitch receiver (meaning a level towbar), whereas Blue Ox's baseplate for the Fit results in a four-inch misalignment, necessitating the use of a drop hitch extension. (I know this because I found a Fit/Blue Ox owner in a nearby campground and measured the heights.) Andy--I'm curious: what's wrong with a drop hitch extension? I probably would have needed one too to use the Blue Ox baseplate. I would think a drop hitch extension would be more than "a fair trade" for avoiding the Roadmaster toad-end hardware. Perhaps your explanation will make me feel that the all-Roadmaster solution isn't second-best (in terms of convenience) after all. Ted
Re: Toad brakes Reply #16 – February 08, 2009, 02:01:46 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99097QuoteThis is not to say that "brake in a box" systems aren't usable, but in my humble opinion they aren't the best choice for auxiliary braking. They're easy to install, but cumbersome to use compared to the US Gear system, which is complicated to install but trivially simple to use.EXCEPT when you trade cars, then you find out you have to go buy another system or a total retrofit since the one you have no longer fits. Like I said, I have used my BB in (4) different tow cars to date 1996 Saturn SW2 2001 Toyota Sienna(heavy) 2002 Honda Odyssey(heavy) 2004 Saturn Ion Now I will use it in 2009 Honda Fit with no additional expense. When I consider how much it would have cost me to have a total retrofit in all of the above vehicles, I will deal with the minor aggravation.William Crockett KB4OB www.rvweb.net www.rv-rgv.com Difficulty/impossibility of transferring "permanent" brake systems to new toads is a myth--at least for the SMI Duo. It is another reason (besides vacuum-assist) that I chose it. While the US brake also has vacuum assist, transferring it to another vehicle is not trivial. The SMI Duo, however, can be removed in about 5 minutes for reinstallation in another vehicle. Just dismount the control box under the hood and the switch box attached to the foot well fire wall. The wiring is cheap--just leave the old wiring in place and replace with new wiring in the next vehicle. Done. --Ted
Re: Toad brakes/ SMI system Reply #17 – February 08, 2009, 02:52:45 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99101"what's wrong with a drop hitch extension?"Mainly, it increases your chances of bottoming out or dragging when crossing unlevel areas such as driveway-to-road transitions. It does this not only by lowering the receiver, but by extending it backward another eight to ten inches. The further any part of your coach extends behind the rear wheels, the more likely you are to drag that part--in this case, the hitch receiver.Now, if your rig's hitch receiver and your toad's towing bracket (baseplate) are misaligned vertically by more than a couple of inches, you're going to need a drop hitch extension, like it or not. Without it, the car will try to underride or override the coach every time you slow down, and that'll put stress on the towbar that it wasn't designed to handle. (We're talking about voided warranties here.)In that situation, the drop hitch's increased risk of dragging when you exit a gas station is the lesser of two evils. But *if* you can avoid using one without causing serious vertical misalignment, it's preferable to do so.I should point out, by the way, that the ReadyBrake *is* a two-inch drop hitch receiver, so if I had installed that system, I would have been a couple of inches out of vertical alignment. Towbar manufacturers say that +/- three inches or less is OK, and as long as I was in that "safe zone," I felt it was an acceptable tradeoff for having a working brake system that I could install myself.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: Toad brakes/ SMI system Reply #18 – February 08, 2009, 04:57:10 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99111Quote "what's wrong with a drop hitch extension?"Mainly, it increases your chances of bottoming out or dragging when crossing unlevel areas such as driveway-to-road transitions. It does this not only by lowering the receiver, but by extending it backward another eight to ten inches. The further any part of your coach extends behind the rear wheels, the more likely you are to drag that part--in this case, the hitch receiver.Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/ Thanks, Andy. Now I can rest assured that the all-Roadmaster solution was the best for us after all (and stop resenting the inconvenience of the arms/crossbar design).
Re: Toad brakes Reply #19 – February 08, 2009, 05:39:07 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99115......The SMI Duo, however, can be removed in about 5 minutes for reinstallation in another vehicle. Just dismount the control box under the hood and the switch box attached to the foot well fire wall. The wiring is cheap--just leave the old wiring in place and replace with new wiring in the next vehicle. Done. --TedTed, I believe you would also want to remember the brake actuator attached to the brake pedal and floor along with the vacuum line. The brake vacuum system hose will also have to be restored when the tee fitting is removed. There also are those hole or holes in the firewall that should be plugged before selling or trading the car. In regard to proportional braking, IMO it is overrated as a big plus. I believe toad braking should only come on when actually needed, which would only be a low percentage of brake operations. The added toad brake wear is then mitigated.Tom Schmal 04FL w/SMI DUO & former BB owner.
Re: Toad brakes/ SMI system Reply #20 – February 08, 2009, 06:59:52 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99122We have the SMI system
Re: Toad brakes / SMI system Reply #21 – February 08, 2009, 07:00:44 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99123"Now I can rest assured that the all-Roadmaster solution was the best for us after all (and stop resenting the inconvenience of the arms/crossbar design)." Just to clarify, my comments about the Blue Ox tow bracket/baseplate causing a mismatch in vertical heights applied ONLY to the Honda Fit. Because cars vary so widely, each case is unique, so don't assume that all Blue Ox baseplates will be low--I'm sure that's not the case!Andy Baird http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
Re: Toad brakes Reply #22 – February 08, 2009, 09:51:21 pm Yahoo Message Number: 99127QuoteI believe you would also want to remember the brake actuator attached to the brake pedal and floor along with the vacuum line. The brake vacuum system hose will also have to be restored when the tee fitting is removed. There also are those hole or holes in the firewall that should be plugged before selling or trading the car. In regard to proportional braking, IMO it is overrated as a big plus. I believe toad braking should only come on when actually needed, which would only be a low percentage of brake operations. The added toad brake wear is then mitigated.Tom Schmal 04FL w/SMI DUO & former BB owner. Point well-taken, Tom. You are absolutely right. --Ted
Re: Toad brakes Reply #23 – February 09, 2009, 06:13:56 am Yahoo Message Number: 99133QuoteDifficulty/impossibility of transferring "permanent" brake systems to new toads is a myth--at least for the SMI Duo. It is another reason (besides vacuum-assist) that I chose it. While the US brake also has vacuum assist, transferring it to another vehicle is not trivial. The SMI Duo, however, can be removed in about 5 minutes for reinstallation in another vehicle. Just dismount the control box under the hood and the switch box attached to the foot well fire wall. The wiring is cheap--just leave the old wiring in place and replace with new wiring in the next vehicle. Done. --Ted Granted, the SMI and other recently introduced braking systems are probably easier to retro-fit and may be better but there were only one or two systems available back in 1997 when I purchased my 1st BrakeBuddy at an FMCA International convention. The state of the art stuff was simply not availabe then. I looked at the others that were and ultimately chose the BB. I tend to stick with something I am familiar with and I know it works since it has functioned for me in emergency stopping situation a number of times.
Re: Toad brakes Reply #24 – February 09, 2009, 11:10:26 am Yahoo Message Number: 99136"Granted, the SMI and other recently introduced braking systems are probably easier to retro-fit and may be better but there were only one or two systems available back in 1997 when I purchased my 1st BrakeBuddy at an FMCA International convention."SMI is not newly introduced brake system. They have been building brake units since 1996. http://www.smibrake.com/About.aspx> I went with the SMI unit for several reasons. It was reasonably priced and straightforward in design and construction. The SMI unit, once installed, became almost invisible. Before buying, I talked with several manufacturers about their systems. SMI's customer service people knew exactly what they were talking about, better than any of the other tech-lines. Installation was involved but any of the better systems are the same. Instead of using a wireless link between the toad and LD, I added a hard wired 'brake-on' indicator light, along with a toad brake activation or 'test' button in the LD's cab. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157603323570942/>The whole system could be removed in less than a half-hour and then transferred to another vehicle without buy any new parts, other than some wire. The nice thing about the SMI and US gear brakes is the amount of adjustments available for fine-tuning. It take some time to get things right, more than what most tech are willing to do or the customer pay for. Whatever system you use, get to know how the adjustments work and experiment until optimum braking is achieved.Larry Now upgrading the toad's service brakes
Topic: Toad brakes (Read 10 times)
previous topic - next topic
Topic: Toad brakes (Read 10 times)
previous topic - next topic