winterizing questions September 27, 2005, 01:44:32 am Yahoo Message Number: 58437I would like to avoid using RV antifreeze when winterizing my 1995 RB. I understand that I will need to blow out all of my water lines and use some antifreeze in the p-traps, to void any problems this winter. Unfortunatly, I don't have the original users manuals that describes this process for my particular model/year:1) where is my water pump located? 2) Has anyone installed a t-connector or something to make this blow out process easy? 3) I have a blow out value for the city water connection. Will this remove water from inside my water pump?Thanks for heping a newbie,Mark
Re: winterizing questions Reply #1 – September 27, 2005, 04:10:25 am Yahoo Message Number: 58439QuoteI would like to avoid using RV antifreeze when winterizing my 1995 RB. I understand that I will need to blow out all of my water lines and use some antifreeze in the p-traps, to void any problems this winter. Unfortunatly, I don't have the original users manuals that describes this process for my particular model/year:1) where is my water pump located? 2) Has anyone installed a t-connector or something to make this blow out process easy? 3) I have a blow out value for the city water connection. Will this remove water from inside my water pump?Thanks for heping a newbie, Mark Mark,Sorry I can' answer all your questions, but I can answer a few.2) I've installed a T fitting and blow out. This is installed just after the output of the water pump. Sink and shower traps are also blown out with air. Even the blow side of a small vacuum cleaner works for the traps.3) No, blowing out at the city water fitting won't do the job. It won't remove water from the pump or output line at all.bumper
Re: winterizing questions Reply #2 – September 27, 2005, 08:24:02 pm Yahoo Message Number: 58463Quote from: markusreynaud"I would like to avoid using RV antifreeze when winterizing my 1995 RB. I understand that I will need to blow out all of my water lines and use some antifreeze in the p-traps, to void any problems this winter.Unfortunatly, I don't have the original users manuals that describes this process for my particular model/year:1) where is my water pump located? 2) Has anyone installed a t-connector or something to make this blow out process easy? 3) I have a blow out value for the city water connection. Will this remove water from inside my water pump?Thanks for heping a newbie, MarkMark,Sorry I can' answer all your questions, but I can answer a few.2) I've installed a T fitting and blow out. This is installed just after the output of the water pump.Sink and shower traps are also blown out with air. Even the blow side of a small vacuum cleaner works for the traps.3) No, blowing out at the city water fitting won't do the job. It won't remove water from the pump or output line at all.bumper Thanks for your reply. May I ask one follow up? 1) did you design the T fitting with parts from a hardware store or is this something I can buy at my local RV shop?
Re: winterizing questions Reply #3 – September 27, 2005, 10:17:36 pm Yahoo Message Number: 58468--- In lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com, "markusreynaud" >Quote Thanks for your reply. May I ask one follow up?1) did you design the T fitting with parts from a hardware store or is this something I can buy at my local RV shop? Sure, one follow-up is allowed at no charge (g) . . .The parts are hardware store stuff, most of which I had in stock.A plastic "T" with 3 nipplesA 90 degree quick acting valve (any appropriate valve would workAn "Amflo" quick-connect compressed air fitting (this is a common fitting for air compressor lines and is what I use on all my equipment. Allows air compressor to be easily attached and removed. The male side does not self-seal, and thus the need for a seperate valve in the blow-out leg of the T.Short length of potable water compatible hose (Home Depot)Stainless Steel hose clamps.A nylon tie or safety wire is used to insure that the 90 degree acting valve doesn't get accidentally turned on - - ever!all the best,bumperall the best,bumper
Winterizing Question Reply #4 – October 06, 2005, 01:47:34 pm Yahoo Message Number: 58733Since I won't be leaving NH for FL until Novmber 28, and don't plan any more camping until then, I'm winterizing my water system using compressed air and following the manual procedure. Having drained the water heater and dumped the water tank, I'm at the water pump and have emptied, cleaned and reinstalled the bowl and strainer. Now I want to disconnect the outflow line from pump, the next step prior to ataching the compressor. The problem is the manual says to remove the black or white nut from the pump. Well, I have two nuts (no wisecracks please) one of which is smaller (nearer the pump) and one larger (to which the line is attached). Turning the smaller nut counterclockwise doesn't seems to be accomplishing anything and I'm not sure where the line should separate, at the pump or between the two nuts. In other words, should I be using two wrenches in opposition or one on the inner or outer nut?Thanks, Paul NE50
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Winterizing Question Reply #5 – October 06, 2005, 02:20:19 pm Yahoo Message Number: 58735I hate to sound like a broken record, but this is a perfect example of why you should use an RV antifreeze system. It's the only way to assure that your pump is protected. You need a pump kit like this http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm?skunum=6279&tab=spec and a water heater by-pass kit like this http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm?skunum=15717&src=CROS . Saves a lot of grief. Take if from someone who has used RV's since 1958, and stored them down to 45 degrees below 0 F.Dick
Re: Winterizing Question Reply #6 – October 06, 2005, 03:18:23 pm Yahoo Message Number: 58738QuoteHaving drained the water heater and dumped the water tank, I'm at the water pump and have emptied, cleaned and reinstalled the bowl and strainer. Now I want to disconnect the outflow line from pump, the next step prior to ataching the compressor. The problem is the manual says to remove the black or white nut from the pump...... Turning the smaller. nut counterclockwise doesn't seems to be accomplishing anything and I'm not sure where the line should separate, at the pump or between the two nuts. In other words, should I be using two wrenches in opposition or one on the inner or outer nut?Quote Thanks, Paul NE50 Hi Paul,I think you have the Shurflo Extreme 5.7 water pump in your rig and perhaps LD's instructions are for the old Whisper King water pump. The newer pumps use a plastic clip to attach the water lines to the pump instead of a threaded nut. At least that is the way my self installation is done. While I use the RV antifreeze method like Dick mentioned, I think if you want to disconnect the output line of the water pump, go to the nut that attaches the water line to some fittings near the output side of the water pump. I am not near my rig right now, but I do believe two wrenches could be involoved. The nut furthest from the water pump should be the one that unthreads from the pump fitting. I believe the black nut is on the fitting that is attached to the water pump with the plastic clip and the white nut is the one that unthreads from the fitting. In other words the white nut, which is on the water line that extends to the water system and the black nut is a fitting that is attached to the water pump. This is where the seperation should occur.You might want to call the LD factory for confirmation.What do you folks who use the compressed air winteriztion method do about removing the water from the city water connection section of your plumbing?Good luck, Steve K. (not planning (hopefully) to winterize for at least another month;-)
Re: Winterizing Question Reply #7 – October 06, 2005, 04:58:33 pm Yahoo Message Number: 58740Oh boy, are you guys going to be proud of me. Well, you have to know me and how, whenever I pick up a tool, NOTHING goes right! Well, this did.2004 26.5 MB1. Water tank. I drained the water tank and left the valve slightly cracked open. 2. Hot water heater. I removed the plastic drain plug and drained the hot water tank. I replaced the plastic plug with the brass setup recommended in the manual. 3. Water pump. I removed, drained, cleaned and replaced the strainer bowl. After talking with Steve Newton I found that it was necessary to put a crescent wrench on the smaller nut (nearest the pump), hold it still and remove the larger nut (attached to the outflow line) with vice grips. I then attached the blowout rig I bought from LD to the outflow line and connected it to my 3/4 horse Sears compressor set for 55psi. I went from bath to shower to kitchen to commode and blew all the water into the gray and black tanks. 4. I reattached the ouflow line to the water pump. 5. I emptied what little clean water the gray and black tanks contained from the blowout. 5. I placarded the monitor panel with a warning not to power the water pump and water heater.Done, and I hope correctly.Paul NE50
Re: Winterizing Question Reply #8 – October 07, 2005, 08:17:29 pm Yahoo Message Number: 58765Paul, Steve told me in 2002 to use 40psi max for blowing out the lines(1998 30IB).Don't forget to blow out the outside shower line and the city water line connection(remove the connection cover and push in on the valve stem to release the water using very low air pressure). As an added precaution, I also put some RV antifreeze in the inlet to the pump(remove the line at the tank and fill it while the end is supported up in the air) and run it for a fraction of a second to put the antifreeze thru the pump(the pump outlet line is disconnected so you can see the pink liquid come out on a paper towel wad). Perhaps you don't need to do this if you have emptied out the water in the pump and strainer.Bob
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Winterizing Question Reply #9 – October 07, 2005, 09:50:54 pm Yahoo Message Number: 58768Paul, I did the same procedure yesterday. StanPaul Wood irishmist20@...> wrote: Oh boy, are you guys going to be proud of me. Well, you have to know me and how, whenever I pick up a tool, NOTHING goes right! Well, this did.2004 26.5 MB1. Water tank. I drained the water tank and left the valve slightly cracked open. 2. Hot water heater. I removed the plastic drain plug and drained the hot water tank. I replaced the plastic plug with the brass setup recommended in the manual. 3. Water pump. I removed, drained, cleaned and replaced the strainer bowl. After talking with Steve Newton I found that it was necessary to put a crescent wrench on the smaller nut (nearest the pump), hold it still and remove the larger nut (attached to the outflow line) with vice grips. I then attached the blowout rig I bought from LD to the outflow line and connected it to my 3/4 horse Sears compressor set for 55psi. I went from bath to shower to kitchen to commode and blew all the water into the gray and black tanks. 4. I reattached the ouflow line to the water pump. 5. I emptied what little clean water the gray and black tanks contained from the blowout. 5. I placarded the monitor panel with a warning not to power the water pump and water heater.Done, and I hope correctly.Paul NE50SPONSORED LINKS Lazy daze Recreational vehicles Automotive maintenance Recreational vehicle dealer Used recreational vehicles Automotive radiatorsYahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Winterizing Question Reply #10 – October 09, 2005, 09:40:53 am Yahoo Message Number: 58822Quote Paul, I did the same procedure yesterday. Stan Stan,I got a private e-mail that said I should put a cup or so of rv antifreeze in each sink and shower trap. Makes sense to me and wonder why this is not in the manual under the winterizing using compressed air section.Paul
[Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Winterizing Question Reply #11 – October 10, 2005, 12:33:21 am Yahoo Message Number: 58847Quote Paul, I did the same procedure yesterday. StanStan,I got a private e-mail that said I should put a cup or so of rv antifreeze in each sink and shower trap. Makes sense to me and wonder why this is not in the manual under the winterizing using compressed air section.Paul Paul,I cut a small block of foam and put a hole in the center of it. The "blow" hose from the vacuum, or a high volume, low pressure blower (the kind used to blow up rafts and air mattresses) goes in the hole and the foam gets pressed into the sink. Blows most all the fluid out of the trap. A small amount of water in the trap will not hurt anything if it freezes.bumper
[Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Winterizing Question Reply #12 – October 10, 2005, 08:47:45 am Yahoo Message Number: 58849QuotePaul,I cut a small block of foam and put a hole in the center of it. The "blow" hose from the vacuum, or a high volume, low pressure blower (the kind used to blow up rafts and air mattresses) goes in the hole and the foam gets pressed into the sink. Blows most all the fluid out of the trap. A small amount of water in the trap will not hurt anything if it freezes.bumper Bumper,Noted. Good idea. Paul
[Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Winterizing Question Reply #13 – October 11, 2005, 01:48:24 am Yahoo Message Number: 58878Quote from: Paul" "Paul,I cut a small block of foam and put a hole in the center of it. The "blow" hose from the vacuum, or a high volume, low pressure blower (the kind used to blow up rafts and air mattresses) goes in the hole and the foam gets pressed into the sink. Blows most all the fluid out of the trap. A small amount of water in the trap will not hurt anything if it freezes. bumper""Bumper,Noted. Good idea. Paul"Paul, and bumper,You can blow out the traps, as bumper described, but we use the small amount of RV antifreeze in each trap instead to prevent odors from traveling into the LD from the holding tank. Normally, when not winterized, there would be a water block in each trap to prevent the odors from coming up from the grey water tank. If you won't be in the LD while it's winterized, that's probably not an issue.Sharon N.
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