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Topic: Dead engine battery, was it me? (Read 5 times) previous topic - next topic
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Dead engine battery, was it me?
Yahoo Message Number: 48998
I recently replaced my '01 MB charge controller.  AMSolar sent out a replacement for one that was over charging.  I installed the controller after pulling the 15Amp solar panel fuse and after removing both coach batteries to install the new temp sensor probe in the coach battery compartment.

Today, in checking up on the functioning of the new controller, I noticed the electric door locks not functional.  "Upon further review" I discovered an engine battery with about .45 volts per my DMV.
 I have the capability of jump starting or slow charging in my drive, but now am concerned whether or not my earlier coach battery work caused and would further impact engine battery performance.  The LD diagram shows a manual reset circuit breaker (located within the coach battery compartment) that runs to an isolator.  Could I have tripped or fried something here that either shut down the battery or drained its power?

Thanks for any assistance.  We have two weeks to solve the problem.
After uncovering the solar panels, the charge controller *seems* to be working.  Time will tell if the voltage drops after reaching full charge.

TIA.

[Virginia] Larry

Re: Dead engine battery, was it me?
Reply #1
Yahoo Message Number: 49023
Larry,
 Since you have a voltmeter, the first thing I'd do is use a seperate battery charger or jump start the LD engine battery after allowing it to charge for 10 or 15 minutes with the jumper cables attached.

If you can get it to run, then measure the battery charging voltage from the alternator at the center terminal of the battery isolator under the hood. Positive lead to the terminal, negative lead of the meter to ground. Then check the charging voltage at each of the other two terminals, one goes to the coach and the other to the engine battery. (It'd be good to measure these before you charge or jump start the battery so you can tell which is which.)

The results will tell you if the isolator is bad and also if the alternator is charging properly - - expect to see above >13.8 if all is well. And if it is, then you may need to fully charge your engine battery and see if it holds a charge. If it's 5 years old, then go ahead a replace it now so it doesn't leave you
bumper
"Yonder" '05 MB
"WLDBLU" glider trailer

Dead engine battery, was it me?
Reply #2
Yahoo Message Number: 49038
Thanks Bumper

To clarify: -start and run the LD -conduct the voltage tests of isolator, etc on running LD engine? -battery is 3 years old (plus time it sat on LD grounds)

Larry.

Quote
  > Since you have a voltmeter, the first thing I'd do is use a seperate battery charger or jump start the LD engine battery after allowing it to charge for 10 or 15 minutes with the jumper cables attached.

If you can get it to run, then measure the battery charging voltage from the alternator at the center terminal of the battery isolator under the hood. Positive lead to the terminal, negative lead of the meter to ground. Then check the charging voltage at each of the other two terminals, one goes to the coach and the other to the engine battery. (It'd be good to measure these before you charge or jump start the battery so you can tell which is which.)
.

[Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Dead engine battery, was it me?
Reply #3
Yahoo Message Number: 49039
Larry,

Yes, you got it. Though I would suggest measuring the terminals on the battery isolator, each to ground, to identify which is which - assuming they are not marked, before you start. i.e. the coach battery positive terminal at the isolator will read 12+, the engine bat will read near zip (or whatever the engine battery is) and the alternator terminal should read zero.

good luck and let us know what you find,

bumper
bumper
"Yonder" '05 MB
"WLDBLU" glider trailer

 
Re: [Life With A Lazy Daze RV] Re: Dead engine battery, was it me?
Reply #4
Yahoo Message Number: 49045
bumper
 You were right on with the "pre-charge" numbers.  I don't know if all isolators are installed the same, but looking at it from the truck grill the posts are oriented vertically.  From top to bottom they are: Coach (14.19), Alternator (14.97), and Truck Battery (14.04).  Parenthetical numbers are readings taken after a 15 minute idle.  The battery "post" measurement indicated 12.25v after I disconnected.
 I've got a trickle charger on now, will wait until sun down to disconnect and take a new voltage reading.  Then I guess if it's down tomorrow it's off to the battery shop (after only 3 years) .
 Thanks a bunch for your assistance.  The isolator is what concerned me most and the thing I knew least about troubleshooting.

Larry