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Engine cooling scheme
Yahoo Message Number: 47908
We have a low tech, not entirely satisfactory solution to excessive engine heat. When the needle threatens to hit the red zone, we turn on the heater/defroster full blast. Works okay for the engine, but not very comfortable for the passengers. Are we nuts? Are your heads shaking in disbelief all over cyberspace? Is there a better way?


We've done this when going up a steep hill.  It works, but as you say, VERY uncomfortable for the occupants.  The passenger can move out of the way, but the driver is stuck.  We were worried about cooking my husband's bone marrow in his shins!

After a prolonged experience (heading UP to Flagstaff), we traveled at night instead when the weather was *that* warm.

Virtual hugs,

Judie SKP #17907
Re: Engine cooling scheme
Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 47910
Quote
We have a low tech, not entirely satisfactory solution to excessive engine heat. When the needle threatens to hit the red zone, we turn on the heater/defroster full blast. Works okay for the engine, but not very comfortable for the passengers. Are we nuts? Are your heads shaking in disbelief all over cyberspace? Is there a better way?
I love it!  You are running the heater to keep from overheating the cooling system and we in the frozen tundra are putting cardboard infront of the radiator to keep some heat in.  Maybe you should try vacationing in Wisconsin in January. :)

Bob Sun Prairie WI
Re: Engine cooling scheme
Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 47919
Quote
We have a low tech, not entirely satisfactory solution to excessive engine heat. When the needle threatens to hit the red zone, we turn on the heater/defroster full blast. Works okay for the engine, but not very comfortable for the passengers. Are we nuts? Are your heads shaking in disbelief all over cyberspace? Is there a better way?
What you're doing is the Standard Operating Procedure for an overheating engine. Just open all windows and suck it up until you can turn off the heater. The other solution is to stop until the engine cools down.

Ed
Re: Engine cooling scheme
Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 47921
You may want to try a desert super-cooler misting system. I am at work and don't have the name of the company with me, but they have an ad
Re: Engine cooling scheme
Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 47927
The proceedure you mention is an old one. Another proceedure is to turn off the AC, drop a gear, and back off the throttle a little. I realize you might slow traffic a little. I remember years ago drivers of large trucks opening their doors and standing with one leg on the running board while on long hard climbs. Would not recommend that for most RVrs.

ray
Re: Engine cooling scheme
Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 47933
Quote from: Judie Ashford / Gary Villere

One item worth checking is the age & mix of the coolent. A proper mix, frequently 50/50, and fresh coolent go a long way in preventing boilover and promote long radiator life. On an older unit, getting the cooling system flushed can also make a big difference. The small orfices in the radiator get clogged with rust & general crud with time.
If the period of overheating was of a long duration, an oil change might be appropriate. Extra hot engine temps. really tax the oil.
Ed
Re: Engine cooling scheme
Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 47939
Well, this is a profitable discussion, for me at least, and maybe other "vintage model" owners as well.

Good suggestion to check the cooling mix and flush the system.
Don't remember when that was last done. Oil gets changed religiously.

Having spent one winter working at the border of Wisconsin and Upper Peninsula Michigan at a ski resort  (ski resort??!), I'm not too keen on traveling there in the winter, although I can sympathize with your restrictions, Bob. I'm not sure where Sun Prairie is, but it sounds to me like wishful thinking on the part of the city fathers, at least this time of year.

We seem to time our trips during heatwaves!  And speaking of traveling at night, or at least early in the morning in the desert, reminds me of our trip to Death Valley. We were fixing to leave real early to beat the heat, but couldn't find the doggone cat. We called, we whistled, we searched, we got mad, we paid for an extra day, we were heartsick, and we were convinced she was coyote food. Long about 11:00 am she must have gotten hungry, and came sauntering down a wheelwell with a small, sheepish meow. She must have been cooling off on the water tank. I'll spare you descriptions of the various emotions we went through.
But we decided to get out of the valley that day anyway. (This was in late October, I think.) It was *hot*! We took the northern route, heading for Hwy 395. Its a long, steep grade, and the engine almost didn't make it. Heater was going full blast. We did stop to let her cool off, not that it did much good in those temperatures. It was scary. I was in the back mopping the cat with ice cubes in a washcloth, she was so hot. Even though we were really nervous about the RV, the fantastical geology of that area made a lasting impression on us. Next time I'll go to Death Valley in January.

We and the Clampmobile lived to tell the tale. Two days later, we were just about the last ones through the Tioga Pass, at 9,999 ft. elevation, before they closed it for the winter. That was the trip with the greatest elevation change, over 10,000 ft., in two days.
 Think I might try the mister idea, with a little more research. Don't think it will add too much weight. Always a concern with my heavy rig because of the pop-up.

Thanks everyone, for your help and ideas.

Kathy '86 22 ft. TK, Red "Clampmobile"
 
Re: Engine cooling scheme
Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 48015
Quote
You may want to try a desert super-cooler misting system. I am at work and don't have the name of the company with me, but they have an ad in RV Journal.
I have one of the "desert super coolers" that I bought about 7 years ago from:

Bidena Products PO Box 7675 Laguna Niguel, CA 92067 (949) 661-9319

They used to have a web site www dot bidena dot com, but it doesn't seem to work now.
 I agree that the units are great!  I originally had mine installed on a 91 GMC pickup that carried a large camper.  Even small hills caused the 454 engine in this truck to heat up. When you activated the unit you could watch the truck temperature guage go down.  I now have the unit on a 98 GMC pickup, with the same camper, but it doesn't really need it. I am in process of selling truck and camper as my LD is supposed to be delivered near the end of Feb. I don't plan to put the unit on the LD.

The units cool using the "latent heat of vaporization." (The additional heat required to convert water to steam after the water has reached the boiling point.)  Bidena basically sends you a box of parts to assemble.  You can probably build your own unit as the parts are readily available.  The parts consist of:

1. Two small spray heads like you use with drip sprinkler systems.

2. A "single faucet" RV water pump like those used on some tent  trailers.  Mine is a Shurflo.

3. A control unit like that used for "interval" windshield wipers.
 You can find these as "addon" units in auto supply shops.

4. Polyvinyl tubing to run from the water source to the pump and from  the pump to the spray heads.  I think the tubing is about 3/8 inch ID.

5. An anti-siphon valve (actually a check valve) and T's that fit the  tubing.

6.  A bag of nylon wire ties.

You mount the spray heads behind the vehice grill; in front of the radiator, transmission cooler and air conditioner cooler.
 You put the pump any place convenient and the control unit in the cab.
 For motor homes the idea is to take water from the fresh water tank.
For my truck and camper I have a 5 gallon jerry can in the truck bed.
 I still have the installation instructions for my unit.  If there is interest I will try to scan them and post the files.

Doug