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Topic: Leveling: Using Non-Power Levelers (Read 10 times) previous topic - next topic
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Leveling: Using Non-Power Levelers
Yahoo Message Number: 2716
Could someone please speak on their experiences of leveling their LD without an expensive power levelers. Are most pads in state parks, Fed parks, National Forests level?

Thank you, Bobbie
Leveling: Using Non-Power Levelers
Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2721
Bobbie:

Not to worry. I have been motor homing for more than 30 years now and have never had power levelers. First, the reason. Absorption fridges need to be level so the ammonia solution will drain to the boiler properly. If it doesn't, the potassium chromate that is in the solution to prevent corrosion will dry out and form a hard crust, blocking tubes and ruining the unit.

Before about 1995, you had to have the unit as near perfectly level as you could, and had to check level from the cooler plate in case the fridge was not installed perfectly. But today's units are designed to allow some out of level. Norcold advertises their can be 6 degrees in one direction and 3 degrees in the other. Dometic does not give angles, but says if the coach is comfortably level, the fridge is OK.

You measure level with a bubble level - I think Lazy Daze sells them; if not see any RV store. You can now measure on the floor in front of the fridge. You have to get the bubble inside the markers; it is no longer necessary to have it in the center, although I do that only because that was what I learned when I started this RV life and a perfectly level coach is more comfortable than one with a tilt. You level by placing blocks under the low tires. Lazy Daze has a great set of leveing blocks - the Terra Cotta colored plastic ones.
For years I made my own but these are light and easy to use. For lifts that require more than they provide, I had a 4 inch by 8 inch length of board, about 36 inches long, sawed diagonally so as to make 2 ramps. For high lifts I place down the wedge and then the plastic leveler. My bride drives the rig unto the blocks while I watch to make sure the tires are square on the ramps. She does this until the bubble is in the center. It takes longer to tell how to do it than to do it. Remember, it does not have to be perfect.

Commercial campgrounds require little leveling, but forest campgrounds are notorious. On a few occassions I had to use a folding army shovel to dig out the high wheel place, and I carry a PVC ratcheting pipe cutter to cut roots in the way. Again, it sounds harder than it is.

One last warning; after I drove off and left a block in Big Bend National Park, I always place the levelers so that the high side is in the direction I will leave the site, so if I forget I will feel the drop off the block.

Hope this helps

Gus Weber
Leveling: Using Non-Power Levelers
Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2730
Gus, you are just a complete wealth of information. I am sure it was you that first invited me to this club site. We ordered our LD 26.5RK in February and you probably had a lot to do with us getting so enthused with LD. Ed Newton should probably put you on the payroll. The leveling blocks and the bubble levels are offered by LD and they actually list all of their offerings in the LD owners manual which they give you to "study" before you pick up your rig. Since we are new to rv-ing, we have an awful lot to learn. I am very thankful for you and others in this club. We would just be clueless Winnebago owners without you.
Leveling: Using Non-Power Levelers
Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2732
Hello Bobbie,

Our experience around the USA is that most state and federal parks are not level unless they have concrete pads. We do not expect to find exactly level pads in private RV parks without concrete pads either.

That said, we have no leveling jacks and do carry leveling blocks for use under the appropriate tires. In most instances, though, we do not need to use them. By moving the coach to different places on the RV space, we can usually get to within half a bubble on the two positioning levels - and that is good enough for the refrigerator, so it's good enough for us.

Lastly, we try to use the leveling blocks on the front tires, because there is just one tire to block on each side. We always use a block that covers the full tread/ground contact area of the tire. Tire manufacturers do not advise a block under only one of two rear dual tires because of the overload it places on that tire. It is more effort to block both tires of a dual set. Sometimes, it is necessary. One of the Lazy Daze lower compartments is a good place to stow the leveling blocks - and there is a recommendation as to the way to make them in the new Lazy Daze Owner's Manual.

May you always park level with brakes on,

Don McG.
Leveling: Using Non-Power Levelers
Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2735
I don't worry about raising only one tire of a dual set on a leveling block.

On our old 144-inch wheel base LD, we had two wedge-shapeed blocks about 8-inches high and 30-inches long.

Lazy Daze had a bubble level in the ref'r's butter dish at our pick-up. We leveled the refrigerator and glued two inexpensive levels (at LD's insistance) by the driver. A fore/aft level on the driver's door and a left/right level on the dash.

To level the coach, you need to raise its low edge. Left or right or front or rear. Put one of the ramp in front of and up against the lowest tire. Put the other ramp a bit ahead of the other tire on the same edge (front, rear, left or right). Then, drive up the ramps until the stick-on levels are centered.

It just takes a bit of practice to know how much clearance you need between the second ramp and its tire.

These ramps take up an unfair amount of compartment space; and we fear that we'll need taller ramps for the new, longer wheelbase rig.

We will think hard about: hollowing out one ramp and storing the other inside, and now, doing without as suggest by Don McG.

With
Leveling: Using Non-Power Levelers
Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2738
Bobbie, I bought two bags of those orange plastic things that sort of look like Leggos. They're really easy to use, and light weight. Got them at a RV place.
Most camping sites are nearly level, but it's rare that it's exactly 'on the bubble' as they say. Sarah
Leveling: Using Non-Power Levelers
Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2739
Don:

I have one warning about using bocks on the front wheels only when leveling from side to side. The independent axles on the Ford sometimes just lift the wheel without affecting the coach body enough. If I have druthers, I level side to side with the rear wheels. I use the blocks on the inside wheel only. This may temporarily overload the tire, but in 30 years of leveling, I've never had a tire problem due to leveling.

Happy trails

Gus Weber
Leveling: Using Non-Power Levelers
Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2742
Hello Sarah, We also have a bag of those orange plastic things. When I talked to the Michelin representative at a FMCA convention, he said that putting the weight of a motorhome on those is a lot like parking a tire on four rocks. So, I made a pattern and cut out six pieces of outdoor grade plywood, in the shape of a "cross", the same thickness as the height of the round raised plastic areas on those blocks. Now when we have to use them, the tire sits on an essentially level surfaces. We prefer to use our solid wood planks, however, and our new 26.5' MB has sufficient storage for us to take along both types of leveling material.

By the bye, having worked as a mechanic in tire shops and then as a mechanical engineer later on, all in an earlier life, I know it is at best to follow the Michelin Tire Guide and the Tire and Rim Association recommendations that the weight of a vehicle never be carried on one of two dual tires, even in a static load condition. Ignore that and there may be no damage or there may be damage that you cannot see. Our new Firestone Steeltex tires deserve the best treatment we can give them.

Don McG
 
Leveling: Using Non-Power Levelers
Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2743
Hello Gus,

So far, we have never run into a condition where we wanted to use a spot that couldn't be leveled using the front wheels. It no doubt helps that we only dry camp at FMCA conventions and are in our designated park by 4PM each day.

Most of the time, we select our target RV park by noon and either call ahead for reservations or know from the campground guide that there are level sites. You have good advice on using leveling blocks on both rear tires of a dual set for really rustic parks and boondocking. It's just that we don't go that direction.

May your leveling blocks be forever dry and clean,

Don McG