NO electric (115AC) July 07, 2003, 12:31:34 pm Yahoo Message Number: 24237Maybelle ('81 Chevy based, 22 ft) isn't getting any current. At the circuit breaker, there are two switches, a blue one and a red one. I am getting current from hot wire to ground, but not from hot to neutral. I am getting current on the blue switch from the neutral side to ground, but not on the red switch. Neither switch was tripped. I haven't tried any resistance tests yet. I'm just learning to use the multimeter. Fortunately, the battery charger says it will work down to 90 volts, which will allow the use of our 100 foot 14 guage extension cord. Anyone have any Ideas what the problem is? Steve Funk
Re: NO electric (115AC) Reply #1 – July 08, 2003, 12:35:41 am Yahoo Message Number: 24268QuoteMaybelle ('81 Chevy based, 22 ft) isn't getting any current. At the circuit breaker, there are two switches, a blue one and a red one. I am getting current from hot wire to ground, but not from hot to neutral. I am getting current on the blue switch from the neutral side to ground, but not on the red switch. Neither switch was tripped I assume you mean voltage - not current. If that is the case, then are you saying you measure 120VAC between ground and line (hot) but 0VAC from neutral to line, measured at the input to the circuit breakers? You need to be more specific about what you are measuring, and exactly where the meter probes are at the time.Steve
Re: NO electric (115AC) Reply #2 – July 08, 2003, 09:27:07 am Yahoo Message Number: 24273Measuring 120 volts from the terminals on top of the switches, white wire (hot I think) to the terminals on the left side of the switches (ground I think. Also getting 120 from the terminals below the switches (black) to the terminals at left. Getting no resistance through the switches. Getting 0 voltage going from white wire above the switch with red lead to black wire below the switch with black lead on meter. Getting 0 voltage at the AC plug in outlets, and no lights through the converter. Steve F.Quote I assume you mean voltage - not current. If that is the case, then are you saying you measure 120VAC between ground and line (hot) but 0VAC from neutral to line, measured at the input to the circuit breakers? You need to be more specific about what you are measuring,
Re: NO electric (115AC) Reply #3 – July 08, 2003, 10:12:05 am Yahoo Message Number: 24276QuoteMeasuring 120 volts from the terminals on top of the switches, white wire (hot I think) to the terminals on the left side of the switches (ground I think. Also getting 120 from the terminals below the switches (black) to the terminals at left. Getting no resistance through the switches. Getting 0 voltage going from white wire above the switch with red lead to black wire below the switch with black lead on meter. Getting 0 voltage at the AC plug in outlets, and no lights through the converter. Steve F. Steve, just to start with some standard AC circuit wiring conventions for home or LD, i.e. this is how your LD SHOULD be wired.green - ground - this should be connected to the round pin on your shorepower connector, and to the metal chassis of your converter service box. white - neutral - this should show zero volts measured to your ground connection, or the metal chassis. On a 15-Amp shorepower connection, or any of your outlets, this should be the wide, flat pin.Black, red, blue, yellow, orange - line - any of these colors in an AC circuit should be line voltage, or HOT - measured against the white neutral wire. On a 15-Amp shorepower connection, or any of your outlets, this should be the narrow, flat pin.Before making more measurements, disconnect the fridge AC cord (behind the outdoor access panel). It would be nice to disconnect the roof A/C as well, but this is trickier. It would appear you probably have a broken wire connecting your AC service panel, likely right at your shorepower plug. This can be tested on Ohmmeter function for continuity by feeding the plug in through an open window so you can connect one meter lead to each pin, and the other lead to the corresponding color wire in the service box. If you have a 30A plug, I don't know the coding, but you should still be able to tell if you have an open pin connection.Steve
Re: NO electric (115AC) Reply #4 – July 09, 2003, 01:49:19 am Yahoo Message Number: 24311--- Wierd thing this morning--I checked it and it worked. My service man here said maybe low fluid in the battery could cause a short. The battery fluid was low, but there wasn't any lead showing and the battery performance had been fine. If that wasn't the problem, maybe I have an intermittent short that will come back some time. All the resistance tests checked out OK. I did change the plug yesterday but it didn't seem to make any difference at the time. I wish now I had checked the resistance before I took the old plug off. Thanks Steve. I got some practice with the multimeter and learned a little about wiring. Steve F. > >Quote Steve, just to start with some standard AC circuit wiring conventions for home or LD, i.e. this is how your LD SHOULD be wired.green - ground - this should be connected to the round pin on your shorepower connector, and to the metal chassis of your converter service box.white - neutral - this should show zero volts measured to your ground connection, or the metal chassis. On a 15-Amp shorepower connection,Quoteor any of your outlets, this should be the wide, flat pin.Black, red, blue, yellow, orange - line - any of these colors in an AC circuit should be line voltage, or HOT - measured against the white neutral wire. On a 15-Amp shorepower connection, or any of your outlets, this should be the narrow, flat pin.Before making more measurements, disconnect the fridge AC cord (behind the outdoor access panel). It would be nice to disconnect the roof A/C as well, but this is trickier. It would appear you probably have a broken wire connecting your AC service panel, likely right at your shorepower plug. This can be tested on Ohmmeter function for continuity by feeding the plug in through an open window so you can connect one meter lead to each pin, and the other lead to the corresponding color wire in the service box. If you have a 30A plug, QuoteI don't know the coding, but you should still be able to tell if you
Topic: NO electric (115AC) (Read 4 times)
previous topic - next topic
Topic: NO electric (115AC) (Read 4 times)
previous topic - next topic