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utility trailer questions
Yahoo Message Number: 20035
Hi all - Any words of wisdom on pulling a utility trailer would be appreciated.

1)  When you pull a trailer with an rv, do you need a special  trailer with a longer tongue to allow for the wide swinging of the  rear end when making corners?  If so, how long does the tongue need  to be?  (pulled by a 26 1/2 ft LD).

2)  Does it matter if the tongue is V shaped or straight or a  combination of the two?  I'm guessing the V shaped one would not  work too well.

3)  Trailer tire size.  A lot of the trailers come with 12 inch (or  even 8 inch) wheels.  Are these big enough or should you avoid these  and go with a trailer that has 13, 14 or 15 in wheels?  I read once  that you need 15" wheels to avoid blowouts, but don't know if this  is true.  I suppose because smaller wheels mean more rotations when  going down the highway.

4)  Single vs. torsion axle?  Is torsion worth the extra cost.

5)  Assuming the trailer would be lower than the ball on the rv,  would a 4 or 6 inch drop hitch (might be called drawbar hitch) be  recommended to try to level things up?  Are these drop hitches ok to  use?  
6)  There's a ton of trailer dealers out there.  Anybody have any  recommendations on a manufacturer?  This would be used to haul a  motorcycle (eventually haul a second one), a kayak, and prob some  misc supplies.

7)  Do campsites charge an extra vechicle fee if you're pulling a  trailer?  
8)  Does the trailer need to be a certain width or length to track  behind the RV?  I was thinking a 5'x10' would be a good size.

9)  When you get to a back in site, do you try to back it in or just
 unhook it, back in the RV, then push/pull the trailer in front of the RV?

Any other info that I haven't thought of yet?

Thanks as always!

Rick
Re: utility trailer questions
Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 20050
Hi Rick, I'll answer some of these questions for you.

1)  When you pull a trailer with an rv, do you need a special trailer  with a longer tongue to allow for the wide swinging of the rear end  when making corners?  If so, how long does the tongue need to be?  (pulled by a 26 1/2 ft LD).
   No, you don't need a special trailer or tongue any will tow behind a  Class C without problems.

2)  Does it matter if the tongue is V shaped or straight or a  combination of the two?  I'm guessing the V shaped one would not work  too well.

It doesn't matter which type you get. The V shaped isn't any more a  problem than the straight type.

3)  Trailer tire size.  A lot of the trailers come with 12 inch (or  even 8 inch) wheels.  Are these big enough or should you avoid these  and go with a trailer that has 13, 14 or 15 in wheels?  I read once  that you need 15" wheels to avoid blowouts, but don't know if this is  true.  I suppose because smaller wheels mean more rotations when  going down the highway.
   Trailers come with tires that are rated for the GVWR of the trailer.
 If an 8" wheel will support the weight rating they will be fine. My  Hobie cat trailer has 8" wheels and I've never had a blowout with one  even when driven straight through from New Brunswick, NJ to St Cloud,  Fl, 19 hours of continuous travel with stops only for fuel (both for  vehicle and us). Larger tires can make the ride of the trailer  smoother but not always.

4)  Single vs. torsion axle?  Is torsion worth the extra cost.

Can't answer this one for you with any experience. I've only had  single axle utility and boat trailers.

5)  Assuming the trailer would be lower than the ball on the rv,  would a 4 or 6 inch drop hitch (might be called drawbar hitch) be  recommended to try to level things up?  Are these drop hitches ok to  use?

Drop hitches are fine to use and cause no problems. They are needed  for many vehicles to make the tongue more level. A trailer is safer  when the tongue and trailer are as level with the ground as possible.

6)  There's a ton of trailer dealers out there.  Anybody have any  recommendations on a manufacturer?  This would be used to haul a  motorcycle (eventually haul a second one), a kayak, and prob some  misc supplies.
   There are many trailers to choose from and many are very good. Often  with utility trailers they are mfg and distributed regionally and  many are not available nationwide. Find one that you like and that  has what appears to be good quality components, design, and quality  workmanship. If it has the features that you need go for it!  
7)  Do campsites charge an extra vehicle fee if you're pulling a  trailer?    I've never been at one that charged more for a trailer or toad being  pulled by a motor home. I've only seen them charge more for  additional people or additional vehicles not being towed by the tow  vehicle. That doesn't mean none do but I'd be very surprised to see  that and would fine another CG if they did.

8)  Does the trailer need to be a certain width or length to track  behind the RV?  I was thinking a 5'x10' would be a good size.
   If that size will suit your needs then it would be fine. There are no  special widths or lengths needed other than that which will suit your  needs.

9)  When you get to a back in site, do you try to back it in or just
 unhook it, back in the RV, then push/pull the trailer in front of the RV?

That's really up to you. I prefer to back into a site with the trailer hooked up. It makes getting out much easier. In your case with a motorcycle in it you may want to do something different to make getting out with the motorcycle easier but in most cases backing in won't present a problem. It really depends on the site and is up to you and which way you prefer and is best for the particular site.
The tongue weight may dictate what you do because even with a tongue jack that has a wheel on it could be difficult to move at some sites depending on the tongue weight and surface type.

Mike
Re: utility trailer questions
Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 20059
Barry, All toll roads I've ever been on charge by the axle. If you have a tandem axle trailer you pay for 4 axles, assuming 2 for the tow vehicle, with a single axle trailer 3 axles, etc. The additional axle price can be more than the per axle price for the first two. On some toll roads in some states or areas the LD is only charged as a car at the standard 2 axle rate and on others they charge a truck fee at a higher rate due to the weight, it depends on where you are traveling.
I know in Fl they charge as a std 2 axle vehicle and the Delaware Memorial Bridge from NJ to Delaware I paid a truck fee. It is a consideration when towing anything whether a toad or a trailer but I don't consider it an additional campground fee and that was the question I answered.
 Since Rick also asked about other considerations you are bringing up a very valid point he may or may not have already considered and expected. Using a single axle utility trailer for a motorcycle(s) and other things is cheaper than towing a toad but both will cost more when driving toll roads.

Mike
Re: utility trailer questions
Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 20074
(replied to this once, but not showing up, hope it doesn't double post)

Thanks Mike, EXACTLY what I needed!!!

Thanks for the web sites Victor.  I was hoping for something simple like from Harbor Freight, but they don't have a 5'x10'er.
 Rick (darn, gotta go back to work tomorrow after being snowed in for 3 days)
 
utility trailer questions
Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 20062
Rick,

I too was looking into getting a trailer at one time.  I can't help you too much with your questions, but you do have a lot of choices on brands around here.  There seems to be a lot of trailer dealers around here.  Here are a couple of links I saved while I was looking.  Maybe they will be of some help.
 http://www.dunlapstrailers.com/ http://www.1-stop-guide.com/trailers/dealer.html

-Victor