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Roof Stuff
I think I'm done for now with the roof stuff.

I gave the roof a good scrubbing mainly because I wanted to examine closely all of the sealed areas. This is an 09 that has been under a cover for all its stationary life and all the caulking looks to be in excellent shape. Nevertheless, after reading lots of threads on resealing, I think in the fall I'll strip off the factory stuff and go with Eternabond. I'm thankful for all of the excellent examples on the forum.

I got rid of the satellite dish and the batwing so walking around up there is less hazardous.

I installed black MaxAir covers on the three openings and painted the rest of the stuff black.

I gotta say, I've been having a pretty good time working on this thing and becoming familiar with it. It's a good quality build. One thing though I am disappointed in is the flat roof. The water pools up front (arrows in photo). When it's home parked I guess I'll drive it up on ramps or leveling blocks to prevent it. I wonder why LD did not put a crowned roof on. Must be some good reason.
jor

09 27' MB
10  Suby Forester

Re: Roof Stuff
Reply #1
One thing though I am disappointed in is the flat roof. The water pools up front (arrows in photo). When it's home parked I guess I'll drive it up on ramps or leveling blocks to prevent it. I wonder why LD did not put a crowned roof on. Must be some good reason.
jor

Yes, that's called "Lake Newton."  More info here:

Info needed on Lake Newton
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264

Re: Roof Stuff
Reply #2
Hi John;  Harder to make a crowned roof and more dangerous to walk on. Plus if you did try to mount anything like solar panels, where would you drill?   Lazy Dazes are usually low in front when parked level.  I bet your driveway slab isn't level, to allow for runoff  during rain. Try parking the LD in the opposite direction. It might drain better. My driveway is at a good angle, so water doesn't pool,  parked in either direction. RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB

Re: Roof Stuff
Reply #3
I put the Eternabond over the factory stuff.
Steve and Jill, Steve posting
1999 26.5 Mid-Bath


Re: Roof Stuff
Reply #5
To do it again I probably would not have used Eternabond and stayed with the factory self leveling recommended seal.   I’d first scrape off as much of the old seal as I could.   It’s the eventual repair/replacement of worn out Eternabond that scares me.  And nothing last forever.
2001 MB
* Not to be confused with Larry W (3000 of my posts are actually from expert Larry W due to Yahoo transition mis-step)

Re: Roof Stuff
Reply #6
On our ‘01 26.5 RK, a previous owner put silicone over the old roof sealant. I knew it had to come off. I called Todd at the mothership and he said they use Loctite PL windows and trim sealant which takes a whole 24 hours just to skin over enough not to get ruined by the rain here in Florida. I asked him about the eternabond that alot of people seem to be using. He said eternabond would last 5 maybe 10 years before needing repairs but requires 4 times the work to remove compared to the Loctite and that I should sell it to someone else before that repair would be needed if I use the eterenabond.

So I have now logged many hours in the hot sun (to keep the original sealant hot and gooey) with an oscillating Fein saw, a 5 in 1 paint tool, needle nose pliers holding a rag soaked in mineral spirits and lots of water (to keep myself hydrated). That saw is a godsend. I now have 3/4 of the roof done with the Loctite and used tongue depressors as a spreader and are waiting for more clear days to finish the job.. All the hard spots are done, thank Heavens.

Does anybody want to buy a couple unused rolls of ertanabond?

Jor - I’m going to follow your lead and remove the dish and batwing.
Chris and Penelope
2001 Rear Kitchen

Re: Roof Stuff
Reply #7
On our ‘01 26.5 RK, a previous owner put silicone over the old roof sealant. I knew it had to come off. I called Todd at the mothership and he said they use Loctite PL windows and trim sealant which takes a whole 24 hours just to skin over enough not to get ruined by the rain here in Florida. I asked him about the eternabond that alot of people seem to be using. He said eternabond would last 5 maybe 10 years before needing repairs but requires 4 times the work to remove compared to the Loctite and that I should sell it to someone else before that repair would be needed if I use the eterenabond.

Getting the silicone off to allow ANYTHING else to stick will be the difficult part. Sounds like you have not yet tackled that issue, but that IS the most important part. Then, stay the course with the Eternabond. In a decade, just pulling off the white film and cleaning the remainder is enough to lay down a new layer of the tape - no need to remove the old. Todd is right about the difficulty in removing it, but that is only necessary if you want to replace it with something else.

Steve

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit

Re: Roof Stuff
Reply #8
Getting the silicone off to allow ANYTHING else to stick will be the difficult part. Sounds like you have not yet tackled that issue, but that IS the most important part. Then, stay the course with the Eternabond. In a decade, just pulling off the white film and cleaning the remainder is enough to lay down a new layer of the tape - no need to remove the old. Todd is right about the difficulty in removing it, but that is only necessary if you want to replace it with something else.

Steve

Steve

Thanks for your concern, Steve. As for the silicone, I scraped off what I could and then hand sanded the rest off with 180 grit down to bare metal as chemicals will not remove any of it. Tedious job that.
The way you are putting it, it almost seems easier to use the eternabond. If a repair IS needed, just pull the film off, clean it, more tape. Right now, I probably put at least 5 tubes of the Loctite up there. They would last around 8 feet.

Chris
Chris and Penelope
2001 Rear Kitchen

Re: Roof Stuff
Reply #9
Steve's warning about silicone is right on, it must be totally removed down to bare metal.
One option is to run a bead of polyurethane down the entire roof seam and then let it cure. Next cover the whole seam with 6' wide Eternabond, being so wide it will cover everything and still have good overlap, in case there is still unseen silicone present.

A word of warning to all, never use silicone sealant on anything. Once applied and cured, nothing will ever stick to it again.
The only proper use of silicone is to seal leaks between the window glass and its rubber gasket.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze