Lazy Daze Owners' Group

I just recently cleaned,prepped, taped and resealed the roof using the recomended factory sealant now in use at the mothership...Loctite PL S40 which is the old name the new name is Pl proline, windows, door and siding (polyurethane sealant. The bar code number is 79340 68920. I found it at home depot. If you order the Pl S40 on line you are probably getting old stock. I found using my finger was better than a 5 in 1. Just keep using a mineral spirits rag and paper towels to clean your fingers. After cleaning surface I used denatured alcohol to remove and oily dirty deposits..it drys quickly and then you can apply the pl. Remove the tape about 18 inches at a time placing on a paper towel , close town and use to wipe your fingers. Used a plastic tube to dispose of paper towel so as not to get roof messy. It took about 15 hours over 3 days just to seal everything. I did not have to remove any old sealant is was firmly!! Stuck to the roof. My 26.5 had been garage kept it's entire life and all the fan covers ,escape hatch, shower skylight,ac  covers ,are still soft and in great condition. I treated all with Aviation industry 303 to help protect them. I also applied this to all window seals and door seals.

Joan - 5 in 1 tool,

Warner ProGrip 5-in 1 Stiff Painters Tool, American Craftsman, 10971 - -...

Long known as very versatile - some people consider this their favorite tool because it is so useful.

Home Depot calls it a painter tool (I have always seen it referred to as a 5 in 1 though it originated as a painter/caulker tool).
I also found a similiar tool that was a 10 in one.
Jane

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Chris, I applied the sealant with a caulk gun...running ribbons up and down an 18 inch area.then used my finger to smooth it down and not have air pockets. This was neccessary because the old sealant surface was uneven. I taped one side seam at a time. As I moved down the roof applying the sealant I would removed the tape every 18 inches before the sealant cured on it and made it hard to remove. My reach is short so i worked so i did not have to get up and down to reach back where i had smoothed in the caulk to remove the tape. I placed the used tape with sticky sealant on it onto a paper towel so as not to have a sticky mess in my plastic tub (used to contain used paper towels. When I folded the paper towel over the used sticky tape it made a place to wipe the sealant from my hands. I did not want to run out of paper towels. I would  have to get down off the roof...lol. I still managed to use a whole roll of paper towels. I used the 5 and 1 tool which is a tool found in home depot and other hardware stores. It got its name because it can be used as a scraper, a screw driver to remove screws, a sharper point for digging out old caulk, an diamond or triangle small opening for removing nails and the curved side is for removing paint from a used roller cover when finished painting and ease of clean up....hense a  5 in 1 tool.
Utube has a video on the tool and it's uses. I also used it to Hammer in sheet rock nails that have popped out ..the handle end is rounded and is great for this. Hope this helps clear things up a bit.

Wait! What happened to self leveling Dicor??? I thought that was preferred....

The roof is aluminum. The 'goop' on top of it is likely Alkyd enamel, like Amazon.com: Heng's 16-45128-4 Alkyd Fibered Roof Coating - 1 Gallon, White:...  It would be tough to remove. Lots of solvent and lots of work.  
   TPO (thermoplastic Poly Olefin is a material like outdoor carpet, only denser.  The EPDM  ethylene propylene diene monomer, is a newer formulation and is probably more resistant to sunlight damage. Likely more expensive also. Are these two materials what you are considering top coating whatever is there now with.  RonB