Log In | Register
Skip to main content
Topic: Oil and brake fluid replacement/Damaged Holding Tank Valves (Read 757 times) previous topic - next topic
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Re: Oil and brake fluid replacement/Damaged Holding Tank Valves
Reply #25 –
"...you need to verify their work"
---
A friend had an oil change done at a Jiffy Lube; they left the cap off the oil fill.  :o
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Oil and brake fluid replacement/Damaged Holding Tank Valves
Reply #26 –
I also have heard a few horror stories from quick oil change places.
We take our cars to Valvoline shops - they charge a little more but we find them to have a better quality of workers.
Jane
Jane & Scott
Currently have a 1989 TK  LD we did a lot of upgrades on.
Bigfoot 25RQ Twin on order with early summer 2024 ETA

Our smartphone autocorrects into very poor English.
 We disclaim the illusion of ignorance this creates as we have enough ignorance we rightly claim.
Re: Oil and brake fluid replacement/Damaged Holding Tank Valves
Reply #27 –
JMO but an oil change is just too important and too easy to do yourself to trust your very expensive rig to some minimum wage guy who doesn't care a wit about your vehicle.
Discuss anything with anyone and disagree agreeably. Always be polite and respectful.
Re: Oil and brake fluid replacement/Damaged Holding Tank Valves
Reply #28 –
It’s not just quickie oil places that goof up. I’ve had a couple experiences with “professional mechanics” that have fallen short, such as not tightening down the radiator cap after a flush.  I no longer go to those shops.  I always double check things after a service.
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
 
Re: Oil and brake fluid replacement/Damaged Holding Tank Valves
Reply #29 –
Quote from: Sawyer  - 
I really like the aforementioned idea of a folding drain valve system. It's better than my pump idea because it still ultimately relies on good old fashioned gravity. I have to wonder if this isn't a huge money making opportunity for some engineering type that could change the way RVs are built.
Thanks, Sawyer - I'm still looking at it, trying to make it work.  I peeked under my rig and figure that although I might not be able to raise the lines high enough to get the valve protected by the body line due to the outside storage bins preventing this, I should be able to get it to tuck up about 4-5 inches.  That would help.  I also looked at our older Sunrader RV, although that drain also drops below the body line, it is routed to come out much closer to the rear axle, instead of midway between the two.  That actually helps keep the valve from dragging if you have to take a bump, as the valve rides much more like the rear axle.  Hopefully I can figure out a way to raise the valves to improve the rig's "breakover" clearance.  If I do, I'll try to take some pictures to show what I did.

Ken 
Dreamchaser
2013 Twin King