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Topic: Fresh water system 101  (Read 133 times) previous topic - next topic
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Fresh water system 101
In response to those that are just starting our LD traveling lifestyle I am going over some of the items and procedures I have found useful in using the fresh water system in the motorhome.
Generally I only use fresh water supplied from the onboard tank refilling it when necessary. Yes, just as my preference, I do completely fill the tank each time it nears empty for convenience. There are the very rare occasions when I will attach to campground water but always using a pressure regulator (see photo) attached at the campground faucet before attaching the hoses. ALL fresh water going into the LD is run through a household size inline carbon/particle filter (see photo) that I added hose couplers with a brass shutoff valve at the inlet side. I use a short hose from the faucet to the filter (laying on the ground) and an adequate length hose to reach the tank filler or the line connection on the coach side.(photo). I attach an angled down brass valve to the coach line inlet to somewhat relieve the downward pressure of the hose weight on the connection(photo). I have attached brass shutoff valves to the male ends (outlet) of all the longer hoses (see photo) so I don't have to go back to the faucet to turn the water on/off when needed. I carry a 'Y' double valve when more than one hose needs to be attached to the campground faucet (photo). The valves also makes a good spray nozzle when washing the coach. I made a solid 12" long copper filler pipe for easily adding water to the tank (see photo).
I keep all my fresh water components in a dedicated right side of coach compartment (photo) separate from any items used in holding tank flushing. Those are kept in the left side of the coach storage area next to the sewer drain valves.
We always use the LD fresh water tank for our drinking water as we do follow sanitizing procedures before starting a long trip or at least once a year. I simply add an unmeasured amount (+/_  3/4 cup) of Clorox to the tank before filling maybe 1/2 to full. I then run the water to the bath and kitchen faucets until I smell the chorine (including the hot water line). This will sit for 4 to 8 hours before a total double flushing of the fresh water system. This is when I also drain the water heater tank by first opening the pressure relief valve and then removing the plastic drain valve using a 15/16" socket attached to an extension and thumb ratchet (photo). Once drained I flush the tank with the water heater rinser wand (photo & link) to remove any built up calcium deposits. Once finished, replace the plug, close the pressure valve and fill the tank. Yes, as stated here in other post, it is important to maintain an air pocket in the hot water tank. Since we live in Florida and store the LD inside we do not have to winterize the water system. You would have to learn this from others in this group on this subject.   
Tank flusher link:

Camco Water Heater Tank Rinser | Camping World
 
2010 RB "Monty"  & currently: 2021 RB "Villa Verde"
2004 Born Free 26'
1998 Beaver Patriot 33'
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1982 Fleetwood Jamboree 23'
1982 Dolphin/Toyota 22'