Wire run April 02, 2019, 10:23:31 pm I'd like to pull wires for a 12V outlet from the space behind the bottom cabinet below the fridge to the front of the upper cabinets over the dining room table near where the switch is for the floor light at the foot of sink. Does anyone know of an easy inside route to make the pull?
Re: Wire run Reply #1 – April 02, 2019, 11:21:03 pm There isn't an 'easy' run for what you want.To add a circuit to the dinette's overhead cabinet, I would start a new circuit at the Power Center and use the utility chase, under the floor near the Power Center, to run the wires under the floor into the wardrobe cabinet. Next take the wires up, across the storage tray, at the top of the door, into the overhead cabinet.An alternative is surface-mount wire molding, used to run the wires across the ceiling.Amazon.com: Wiremold Cord Cover CordMate II Cable Organizer Raceway Kit |...Larry As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Re: Wire run Reply #2 – April 03, 2019, 03:46:23 pm My MB has a 12v outlet over the table. Are you looking for a second one there? If so, you might want to check the fuse size for that outlet and the maximum combined draw to see if you could simply convert the one outlet 12v socket to a two outlet socket.Ken F in NM
Re: Wire run Reply #3 – April 03, 2019, 03:52:23 pm Oops - re-reading your post, you are not looking for another outlet over the table. You want one in the bunk area on the cabinet wall, correct? If so, once again, make sure that the combined load on that line does not exceed the fuse capacity. If you are ok with that, empty the cabinet contents, pull out the staples that hold the cabinet base down, remove the cabinet base and run a set of wires from the existing 12v socket to the new location. To re-install the cabinet bottom, you can use small flat head screws, or you can use a pneumatic stapler with narrow staples to re-fasten it.Ken F in NM
Re: Wire run Reply #4 – April 03, 2019, 05:54:50 pm I've got no 12V outlets anywhere except two on the dash and one back in the drivers side rear upper storage unit (I assume it was for an inverter to power a tv in the space right in front of that cabinet).I was planning on either going to the existing power distro (I think I saw some unused fuse holders there), or going to direct to the batteries via a new fuse block.What I'm aiming for is a place where the kid can plug in stuff (tablet, phone, etc) when we are not on shore power. I'd run a long extension from the dash outlets, but I've found out those are wired to the chassis battery, not the house batteries.Sean
Re: Wire run Reply #5 – April 03, 2019, 06:04:36 pm If the amperage load is going to be low, charging phones and tablet, follow Ken's suggestion to access the 12-volt wiring in the overhead cabinet's lighting fixture. The lighting circuits usually have a decent reserve and replacing the bulbs in the cabinet fixture, with LEDs, will free up even more power. This would be a much simple way of getting the power you want.Consider installing one or two of these.Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems Dual USB Charger Socket: Prime VideoLarry 1 Likes As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Re: Wire run Reply #6 – April 04, 2019, 01:00:18 am Sean we put a bunch of 12v outlets in. You can connect to a 12v wire at the lights or even that switch. However make sure you have “always on†electricity (not a line controlled by a switch). For example if you want to borrow electricity at the spot of the switch make sure you connect to the wire that is providing electricity to the switch (electricity is always there, confirm this with a voltmeter turning the switch on and off). If you connect to a line controlled by a switch the new 12v outlet will only work (charge devices) when the switch (and everything else it controls is on).In our 89TK the back lights have "always on" wiring but the lights in the middle, front, and bathroom have a switch that controls that entire line as well as the switches at the fixtures themselves, so both must be on to get any electricity anywhere on those lines.Our devices pull so little that we have had handful of them charging/running with no problems before we even switched the lights to led. Each one pulled something like .1 amp.We installed 3 of these Triple Socket Cigarette Lighter Plug Switch Box in our back lounge area. I liked these as there is multiple outlets, they have their own fuse, they have caps to cover when the outlet is not in use, and they are a flush mount (no holes needed other than the wire hole). We choose these instead of a usb outlets as we can put all kinds of devices into them (room to grow including in the unknown future). We put these RAVPower 24W 4.8A Mini Dual USB Car Adapterin the outlets we wanted to put a usb plug into. They work well though repeated tugging on the cords does mean they will at times sneak out of the outlet but we find we only have to push them in a couple times a month, something we can live with. Ours are mounted horizontally which helps with less sliding out when we tug on that cord plugged into it. Be aware some devices (like iphones, likely other brands also) need a higher voltage at the usb charger - so make sure what you get will give you the juice you need. We found this out the hard way years ago with car usb chargers (went into outlet and provided two usb outlets) that took forever to charge our phones. As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
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